Maybe some one here will know for sure but I believe the main one is the center one. I am almost certain of it but not 100%. Did you google it?
According to Rock Auto the Dorman main actuator is part #604112. If that number crosses to your number then you can match. Go to Rock Auto and look it up in the heating and a/c section for your rig and match the picture.
---------- Post added at 09:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:50 AM ----------
I am copying and pasting some info for you. This is part of a thread from 08/22/2010 started by twbauer in the Interior section of this forum for the correct year of Tahoe. His was a 2005. Read the whole thread for help. Good luck.
On the actuator, there are 3 marks. Long one in the middle and a smaller one on each side. Let's call the first small one "low", middle long mark would be the "mid position" and the other short one would be considered "high". It seems that both installed actuators are outside of the first small (low) mark. When the system first gets power, or when I plug in the new actuator to the actuator harness without being installed, the actuator moves from just left of the low mark, to the low mark, and back to the left again. (nowhere near the mid or high mark)
Yet after the vehicle is started, by pushing the vent buttons on the control panel to change the venting position, there is no change in any of the actuators... even the new one I purchased which wasn't hooked up to the control arms (not installed, but just plugged in).
Hopefully this makes things a bit clearer... Really appreciate your patience here. I gotta find a way to get this working again for my family.
This makes me think that I'm not getting the system initialized properly to detect the full travel of the actuators.
---------- Post added at 12:10 AM ---------- Previous post was Yesterday at 11:48 PM ----------
Another thing I just found... from the online Chilton docs...
Removal & Installation
1. Remove the instrument cluster trim plate bezel.
2. Remove the instrument panel storage tray.
3. Remove the accessory switch assembly from the instrument panel.
4. Remove the screws from the HVAC control assembly.
5. Remove the HVAC control assembly, with the following procedure:
* Release the retaining tabs.
* Pull the control head out of the instrument panel carrier.
6. Unplug the electrical connectors from the HVAC control assembly.
To install:
WARNING- Make sure the ignition key is in the OFF position when connecting the electrical connectors to ensure the proper calibration of the control panel.
1. Engage the electrical connectors to the HVAC control assembly.
2. Install the HVAC control assembly.
3. Install the accessory switch assembly to the instrument panel.
4. Install the screws from the HVAC control assembly.
5. Install the instrument panel storage tray.
6. Install the instrument cluster trim plate bezel.
WARNING- Do not adjust any controls on the HVAC control module while the HVAC control module is calibrating. If interrupted improper HVAC performance will result.
7. Start the vehicle and let run for one minute .
Maybe I'm not doing the reset procedure correctly. What are they talking about in #2 and #3? I'm not sure what the accessory switch assembly is. I'm only pulling the 2 plugs in the back of the climate control panel when I try to reset the unit. Anyone have any ideas? Whiteout??? You seem to be the guru on fixing these... Looking forward to your reply!
Next one:
I cleaned the inside of the actuator as someone mentioned in some post I read. Ya know.. it really does make sense. If I know the motor runs when the system is calibrating, it's got to be something wrong with the "electronic sensing" of where the actuator is. It's easy to see that the goop/lubricating compound in there wouldn't allow an electrical connection on the rails, and should be cleaned up. I just used some paper towel on the end of a flat head screwdriver, and also just my finger. I also thought it may be conductive grease. I've seen that in some applications, but that wouldn't make sense either. With multiple contacts in such close proximity, electrical conductive grease would certainly short out the circuit.
Inside the actuator you'll see the motor, 3 small gears and the large gear which drives the vent shaft to change the blend doors. Under this large gear is a copper flange with 2 fingers. The 2 copper fingers ride on the bottom of the circuit board on 2 metal rails. There are sections to the rails so it's easy to see the system is looking for conductivity in the different sections to either sense or set the position of the actuator. My actuator rails and copper flange/fingers were full of gunk/grease. I cleaned them both, wiped the other gears and put the actuator back together.
Once I cleaned the actuator, set it to a mid position, I put it back in the vehicle (right above the gas pedal). I used the reset procedure that I got from the GM dealer. (pull fuse, reinstall fuse, turn key so system has power and wait for a minute or so for calibration) I pulled the HVAC 10 amp fuse in the fuse panel under the hood. Re-installed the fuse, and the stuck my head under the dash to watch the actuator while I turned the key on (1 click short of engaging the starter to get power to the climate control board and fans). I was able to see the actuator move all the way to 1 side, pause, then move all the way to the other side, pause, and then end up somewhere in the middle. Before I cleaned the actuator, I also tried this procedure, but the actuator would only go to one side, and stay there. I'm guessing there wasn't enough connection to give the climate control board any feedback on what position it was in. I waited another minute or so to ensure the sensing of the actuators was complete, and then started to play with the different fan settings and vent positions. Everything was then working as it should!!!!
I'm guessing that most people who indicate they have climate control issues after a battery going dead, or battery replacement as I did have the exact same issue. When the system re-calibrates after power loss (battery change), it moves the actuators in their full range of movement. If there is grease somewhere along that range, I'm guessing it screws up the calibration and **** - no actuator function. The more I think about it.. the more sense it makes.
If I took this to the GM dealer, there is no way they would clean the perfectly good actuator, instead, I'd be charged a TON of labor and for a very expensive new actuator. Go Tahoe/Yukon Forum!!!
Problem Solved!!!
