Noise steering drag? Front differential? Auto 4WD

[Doubeleive]

myself personally I would just do this, R&R and go about my business
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-DIFF...ash=item3aad42d1ae:g:69MAAOSwzqFY9654&vxp=mtr

 

[KR66]

I read that the latest Timkin hubs are for both 2WD and 4WD operation so that one does need the shaft to secure the bearing.

There's an extensive write up on it here for the GMT800s:

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/yukon-down-awd-delete-headers-converter-etc.81191/

@01ssreda4

That’s what I’m thinking but I’m just afraid it may not be true I don’t want a wheel flying off because the hub fell apart! I have 2 unused hubs and looked at them closely they are pretty solid but without definitive proof they don’t need the support of the spline, I know the shaft is supposed to be torqued at 150lb that’s a lot for something that’s not holding the hub together.

 

[KR66]

Do you have a shop manual? Some of them contain diagnostic trees for problem solving various parts & systems

From what I recall there is only a press fit bearing & seal on either end. I haven't come across a single piece of literature or thread/testimonial of a spun output bearing. It's a needles in cage type of deal prob designed to self-destruct before interfering with the housing. I couldn't imagine a design where 1 would have to scrap a $2500 axle on account of $10 bearing

Some manual call for removing the whole damn axle to R&R bearing/seal but it can be done in place if you have the right $hit & know what you are doing. Saw a few vids on YouTube if you need a ref. But I don't want us to get ahead of ourself

You watched a vid for DS output bearing on YT: if it was the guy who removes the knuckle/spindle before first supporting it and has the lower arm unload full force, I would only ref that entire thing as "what NOT to do." That goof troop learned everything the hard way & proves a workshop manual is usually necessary as not to continuously overlook both the obvious & inconspicuous

I'm anxious to know what you will discover. Will be looking for updates. You are correct about servicing/rebuilding a donor axle then do a complete swap. Just have to match rpo build code for R&P ratios

I’ll keep you posted and yea it was the guy who forgot to put a jack under the knuckle lol he had trouble with the puller also!

 

[swathdiver]

That’s what I’m thinking but I’m just afraid it may not be true I don’t want a wheel flying off because the hub fell apart! I have 2 unused hubs and looked at them closely they are pretty solid but without definitive proof they don’t need the support of the spline, I know the shaft is supposed to be torqued at 150lb that’s a lot for something that’s not holding the hub together.

150? Mine and my buddies 2007 Duramax Classic call for 177 foot pounds of torque. The bolts on the backside to the knuckle get torqued to 133 foot pounds. Double check since we're different generations and my buddy's is a 3/4-ton.

 

[KR66]

150? Mine and my buddies 2007 Duramax Classic call for 177 foot pounds of torque. The bolts on the backside to the knuckle get torqued to 133 foot pounds. Double check since we're different generations and my buddy's is a 3/4-ton.

It’s only a 1/2 ton and 150lbs is what the Mitchell guide says I checked several sources and they all say 150 for this year and model. And your running a diesel they have completely different suspensions yours is a lot heavier to handle the weight of that engine and all the extra torque. If you look at the video I posted you will see a lot is different between the gas 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton chassis does yours use torsion bars up front?

 

[swathdiver]

It’s only a 1/2 ton and 150lbs is what the Mitchell guide says I checked several sources and they all say 150 for this year and model. And your running a diesel they have completely different suspensions yours is a lot heavier to handle the weight of that engine and all the extra torque. If you look at the video I posted you will see a lot is different between the gas 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton chassis does yours use torsion bars up front?

Ok. Mine is a 1500 and my buddy's is a 3/4 ton and we both have the same torque spec for that bolt. Mine is GMT900 while his is GMT800. I had not heard of the torque spec that low but since the book says that, go with it.

 

[KR66]

Ok. Mine is a 1500 and my buddy's is a 3/4 ton and we both have the same torque spec for that bolt. Mine is GMT900 while his is GMT800. I had not heard of the torque spec that low but since the book says that, go with it.

It’s 155 I was off by 5 here’s one of the spec sheets I found it has several GMC product years listed with the specs the highest is See is 180 for a couple models becides the Yukon. Yours is newer than this list.

 

[garysam]

I thought of that I don’t think it could be the pads are ceramic and the past 10000 miles are wearing even, the drift and noise isn’t affected by braking, it’s there the loudest when cold (Sat at least 8 hours) it only became intermittent when I drove to Illinois for the 3rd time from South Carolina now it’s 50% after I have been driving for at least 30 minuets.

My '00 Escalade did exactly the same thing as yours (noise, drift) and it was a caliper hanging up. Check the temp of both front wheels with a temp gun after driving a while. Another thing to check is the 4wd switch in the front diff.

 

[01ssreda4]

That’s what I’m thinking but I’m just afraid it may not be true I don’t want a wheel flying off because the hub fell apart! I have 2 unused hubs and looked at them closely they are pretty solid but without definitive proof they don’t need the support of the spline, I know the shaft is supposed to be torqued at 150lb that’s a lot for something that’s not holding the hub together.

Not to bust your balls here, but you show a great lack of understanding of how bearing assemblies (specifically tapered rollers) work. When a fastener holds a bearing assembly together, torque of the fastener is irrelevant. The force of the fastener as related to bearing drag is ALL that matters. Not sure if you ever did the old school brakes where the bearings were in the rotor and had to be greased? Same as most trailer bearings. By knowing the spec is 150ft/pds, you can GUARANTEE the fastener is NOT holding the bearings together. Not only that, in my thread linked above, I prove it doesnt hold it together by showing you it clamps the same metal in the front as it does in the rear, its a solid piece. The bearings are the only thing holding the bearings together, they are engineered that way. Also, this is common. I own a Durango that has 4wd hubs STOCK, and its 2wd. 165k miles and no failure to date!

 

[bottomline2000]

Does your steering have a dead spot in the middle that feels like slop or play? Also do you know why the power steering pump is whining?

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