Oil issue

[corvette744]

Bottom line verify were the leak is,if you are not up to it get quotes and get her done.

 

[Maximus05Escalade]

View attachment 382545

Hey guys I got a 2005 LS Tahoe 5.3, the oil was changed I’d say close to a month ago and I remember looking under it and saw a little oil droplet just where the drain plug was about a week later after I changed it. I looked under it yesterday and I see this. How is the oil making its way through what it looks like the bolts and how can I fix this. Thanks for any help! Also my oil pressure has been reading fine where it should be it’s not low or high. It’s either straight up or just a tad bit from straight up. Also this truck has 265K on it and runs good.

It could also be coming from rear valley pan gasket and/or valve cover gaskets. my underneath looks the same but a lot more oil. So, this weekend since my knock sensors are freaking out, I am replacing those the wire harness, intake gasket, valley pan gasket and valve cover gaskets. Hopefully solving the worst of my oil leak issue, knock sensor codes and deleting my automatic under vehicle oiling system. Another problem spot for an oil leak is oil fill tube which if you have it can be removed and oil fill cap will screw right into valve cover. That cleaned the top of my valley pan up, under throttle body just the entire surrounding area possibly contributing to the oil collection area we are speaking of. 05 escalade 255k LQ9 6.0.

 

[Doubeleive]

Thank you, how much do you think it will cost to repair the problem? If possible and not too too difficult I plan on trying to do it on my own

presuming it is the rear main seal then the transmission has to be pulled so typical cost is around $500-650
as already mentioned is could be from other sources and wind blow-by makes the oil go everywhere
could be coming from a variety of places or even more than one. valve cover, oil pressure sensor, oil cooler block off plate, oil filter adapter, rear main, dipstick seal, oil pan seal
I would suggest getting some purple power or whatever engine de-greaser of choice and spray it all over under and above at one of those diy car wash with a power wand and get under there with the wand and spray off everything as much as you can, take it home and park it over a clean large piece of cardboard and in the morning look under the truck for the wet spot and then look up from there. if there is nothing the first day then go drive it around a bit and try again.

 

[MassHoe04]

If it is the RMS and cost is too much to deal with...
You know what they say: Make lemons out of lemonade.

Think of this situation as a built-in, perpetual, automatic oil change function.
Just keep adding oil to top it off and it changes itself!

Seriously, though...
If the leak (regardless of the source) is not enough to make you add oil constantly, is not damaging anything, interfering with safe operation or causing people behind you to go off the road due to a James Bond smokescreen...
You don't necessarily need to really stress over a few drips.
You just have to convince yourself a slight leak, even at a RMS, is not always a big deal.
The truck is coming up on 20 years old soon. Old trucks might leak a little.

 

[Bill Hayes]

View attachment 382545

Hey guys I got a 2005 LS Tahoe 5.3, the oil was changed I’d say close to a month ago and I remember looking under it and saw a little oil droplet just where the drain plug was about a week later after I changed it. I looked under it yesterday and I see this. How is the oil making its way through what it looks like the bolts and how can I fix this. Thanks for any help! Also my oil pressure has been reading fine where it should be it’s not low or high. It’s either straight up or just a tad bit from straight up. Also this truck has 265K on it and runs good.

I had a 2007 NBS and had the RMS replaced. Then the pan gasket started leaking. Long story short, it turned out to be the driver side valve cover was bad. It contains the pcv valve. Replaced it and oil leak stopped. I am sure that if I changed the valve cover first, I would not have had to change the RMS. Pull the hose off the valve cover and blow into the valve cover with your mouth and a long enough hose. It should not have any back pressure and should feel like blowing through a soda straw.

 

[Maximus05Escalade]

Thank you, how much do you think it will cost to repair the problem? If possible and not too too difficult I plan on trying to do it on my own

I had several other leaks like the ops, valve cover gaskets, valley pan gasket, oil fill tube, CSS, oil dipstick tube. started on top sense I had to do knock sensors anyway with most of the leaks making it to the same area and looking like yours. All pretty easy fixes. When it came to the rear main in order to try and buy time, I tried an oil additive for sealing rear main seals. I am not one to cut corners or have faith in additives fixing anything, but I put a bottle of Blue Devil rear main sealer in and seen results pretty much immediately from a steady drip on both corners of tranny to eventually nothing!!!!!!! The shit actually worked and worked fast. The only way it won't work is if seal is torn or has a chunk missing. $16.95 at any parts store. it's definitely worth a try. 05 Escalade, 255k miles, LQ9

 

[Gucci2074]

I had several other leaks like the ops, valve cover gaskets, valley pan gasket, oil fill tube, CSS, oil dipstick tube. started on top sense I had to do knock sensors anyway with most of the leaks making it to the same area and looking like yours. All pretty easy fixes. When it came to the rear main in order to try and buy time, I tried an oil additive for sealing rear main seals. I am not one to cut corners or have faith in additives fixing anything, but I put a bottle of Blue Devil rear main sealer in and seen results pretty much immediately from a steady drip on both corners of tranny to eventually nothing!!!!!!! The shit actually worked and worked fast. The only way it won't work is if seal is torn or has a chunk missing. $16.95 at any parts store. it's definitely worth a try. 05 Escalade, 255k miles, LQ9

Did you use the whole bottle?

 

[Maximus05Escalade]

Did you use the whole bottle?

Yes. It says it will work with up to 8 quarts of oil.

 

[Maximus05Escalade]

I had a 2007 NBS and had the RMS replaced. Then the pan gasket started leaking. Long story short, it turned out to be the driver side valve cover was bad. It contains the pcv valve. Replaced it and oil leak stopped. I am sure that if I changed the valve cover first, I would not have had to change the RMS. Pull the hose off the valve cover and blow into the valve cover with your mouth and a long enough hose. It should not have any back pressure and should feel like blowing through a soda straw.

This is absolutely 1 of the first things that should be checked and is 1 of the most overlooked.

 

[89Suburban]

I had several other leaks like the ops, valve cover gaskets, valley pan gasket, oil fill tube, CSS, oil dipstick tube. started on top sense I had to do knock sensors anyway with most of the leaks making it to the same area and looking like yours. All pretty easy fixes. When it came to the rear main in order to try and buy time, I tried an oil additive for sealing rear main seals. I am not one to cut corners or have faith in additives fixing anything, but I put a bottle of Blue Devil rear main sealer in and seen results pretty much immediately from a steady drip on both corners of tranny to eventually nothing!!!!!!! The shit actually worked and worked fast. The only way it won't work is if seal is torn or has a chunk missing. $16.95 at any parts store. it's definitely worth a try. 05 Escalade, 255k miles, LQ9

I have been battling a rear main seal leak for quite a while now. Anywhere I would park it would leave behind 4 or 5 2" circular drips on the ground. Oil pan was always covered with windblown oil, as well as the crossmember, front sway bar, transmission pan, etc. You can imagine how ugly my driveway and parking spaces in the street and at my work look. They look like grease pits. I was loosing about a pint a week at least.

I saw your post and checked out that Blue Devil Rear Main sealer you mentioned and review. I looked it up on Amazon and read those reviews as well. I have an original 5.3 with over 340,000 miles on it. I figured what the hell and threw a bottle in last weekend. Ran it for the week. I pulled it into my shop to do some front end work. I could not believe it when I climbed under there. There was 2 drips on the oil pan, 1 drip on the crossmember, trans pan was BONE DRY. And it did not leak ONE DROP onto the floor while in my shop. I still don't believe it.

You the man! I will update as time goes on. For right now I am FLOORED. I'm gonna hit the warehouse floor at my work tonight and do another drip test and post pics of before stains and after.

I just took a some pics of my decimated driveway and sidewalk, and the entrance of my garage where I parked this afternoon is the last pic, not one fresh drop right there from today. IMPRESSED.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079JX4JO?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details