Yes, should be fine. FWIW I went with the M365HV. Dunno what the difference is.
Oil pan secondary valve
- Thread starter Gilla
- Start date
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Geez..this is like a bad novel. Installed new oil pressure gauge/ cold start up 30psi same as factory gauge (FG). At operating temp gauge reads 10 psi, so does FG. PSI increases as rpms increase. Holding 40 psi at 2K. FG reads 20psi. Yes FG needs a new stepper
motor. Have 20W50 in it. Was told that 5W30 works better because the oil channels are not as large as the old 350s. So, I'm gonna change to 5W30 and drive it. I am still trying to figure out why I gave low pressure at idle. Shimmed the pump as per Mellings YouTube video. Even pulled the pan off and replaced the oil pick up tube oring (again). The only thing left is I have'nt touched is the dog bone. Everything else has been addressed. It holds 10 psi at idle so im gonna drive it. Most of the time its not at idle. 10 psi is not great but it'll do. If i ever get this figured out , Ill let ya know. Thanks for your help.
motor. Have 20W50 in it. Was told that 5W30 works better because the oil channels are not as large as the old 350s. So, I'm gonna change to 5W30 and drive it. I am still trying to figure out why I gave low pressure at idle. Shimmed the pump as per Mellings YouTube video. Even pulled the pan off and replaced the oil pick up tube oring (again). The only thing left is I have'nt touched is the dog bone. Everything else has been addressed. It holds 10 psi at idle so im gonna drive it. Most of the time its not at idle. 10 psi is not great but it'll do. If i ever get this figured out , Ill let ya know. Thanks for your help.
it's a very common thread around there. once something happens they get low pressure at idle, the common stuff doesn't fix it much.
10psi is within gm spec, it should be fine. I don't remember, do you have afm deactivated? sounds like your factory gauge might need a sensor or the screen under it cleaned. but eh, still fine.
I don't buy the small oil passageway thing. even recommended putting 15w50 racing oil in their ls based cars for track days and then switch back for street. I believe the oil passageway are fine for whatever oil you want to run he said maybe the FM activation solenoids and things like that.. Just if you're in a cold winter area. maybe switch for winter. maybe run a 10w 30 it 40 and send it.
but it's not going to get much better till you put a high volume oil pump in it. I personally would like to see someone put one of the hybrid pumps in it. No one would ever have a oil volume problems with these things being variable displacement
10psi is within gm spec, it should be fine. I don't remember, do you have afm deactivated? sounds like your factory gauge might need a sensor or the screen under it cleaned. but eh, still fine.
I don't buy the small oil passageway thing. even recommended putting 15w50 racing oil in their ls based cars for track days and then switch back for street. I believe the oil passageway are fine for whatever oil you want to run he said maybe the FM activation solenoids and things like that.. Just if you're in a cold winter area. maybe switch for winter. maybe run a 10w 30 it 40 and send it.
but it's not going to get much better till you put a high volume oil pump in it. I personally would like to see someone put one of the hybrid pumps in it. No one would ever have a oil volume problems with these things being variable displacement
You have done all the things that "could" be worn....
except now to me it's pretty clear that you have worn bearings
Could be cam bearings only, but also mains and rod bearing could
have more clearance than new spec so you'd be losing oil pressure there.
10-40 psi is just fine... Just run it !!! (as long as you aren't having weird noises
or driveability issues)
except now to me it's pretty clear that you have worn bearings
Could be cam bearings only, but also mains and rod bearing could
have more clearance than new spec so you'd be losing oil pressure there.
10-40 psi is just fine... Just run it !!! (as long as you aren't having weird noises
or driveability issues)
ivin74
05 NBS Nali
What was the oil pressure with the oem camshaft?
What camshaft did you put in? Brand? The new camshaft might be the problem if the oem cam was creating good oil pressures.
With the AFM deleted I agree with plugging the pressure relief inside the oil pan. It is not needed with AFM removed and a plug will never stick open and cause low oil pressure.
I am curious what you did in the AFM manifold to seal up those oil passages. Did you install the Non AFM manifold or modify the old AFM manifold to eliminate oil leaks internally. I have modified 2 of the AFM manifolds in the past to plug all the passages and possible leaks but I prefer to install the Non AFM manifold if the engine is going to be non AFM. Since CA laws cracked down on modifications I just stick with factory AFM new parts, I don't wish to risk any trouble.
On the factory oil pumps when I have the pan off I do take the oil pump out and increase the spring pressure a little and make sure the by pass is clean and functional. Make sure the proper Oring is used. I have to study the paperwork each time to make sure the correct one is installed. The lowest oil pressure I have had with hot idle after doing this work is 30 PSI at dead idle. Most are close to 40 or a little better. Many of these had 175,000 plus miles and I used the stock pump. Only 3 were aluminum blocks and the one with only 28 psi was a 6.2L. With functioning AFM equipped engines the internal pressure relief is replaced with a new one and not plugged off. Unless your oil is dirty causing wear the oil pumps really do not wear, they have the best oil supply of any part in the engine.
I do agree that the High Volume pumps can mask oil leaks in worn engines.
I am curious what you did in the AFM manifold to seal up those oil passages. Did you install the Non AFM manifold or modify the old AFM manifold to eliminate oil leaks internally. I have modified 2 of the AFM manifolds in the past to plug all the passages and possible leaks but I prefer to install the Non AFM manifold if the engine is going to be non AFM. Since CA laws cracked down on modifications I just stick with factory AFM new parts, I don't wish to risk any trouble.
On the factory oil pumps when I have the pan off I do take the oil pump out and increase the spring pressure a little and make sure the by pass is clean and functional. Make sure the proper Oring is used. I have to study the paperwork each time to make sure the correct one is installed. The lowest oil pressure I have had with hot idle after doing this work is 30 PSI at dead idle. Most are close to 40 or a little better. Many of these had 175,000 plus miles and I used the stock pump. Only 3 were aluminum blocks and the one with only 28 psi was a 6.2L. With functioning AFM equipped engines the internal pressure relief is replaced with a new one and not plugged off. Unless your oil is dirty causing wear the oil pumps really do not wear, they have the best oil supply of any part in the engine.
I do agree that the High Volume pumps can mask oil leaks in worn engines.
He installed one from Roger Vinci that I sent him because Roger warrantied it for me. Interestingly, I had initially installed the same cam in my 2012 but it failed within 50 miles due to aftermarket lifter trays (that were sold to me as OEM), which caused the lifters to turn on the cam at higher RPM. But while it was installed, I also experienced similar, lower than normal oil pressure despite initially reusing the factory pump (~100K miles on it). I attributed it to the o-ring on the pump being nicked a little during install, so I replaced the pump and o-ring when I went back in. But in hindsight it could've been the cam. Unfortunately, since I replaced the cam, o-ring and pump at the same time it's impossible to know for sure.
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ivin74
05 NBS Nali
I remember reading the thread you where you talked about the lifter tray fiasco.
@Gilla
Did you block off the towers in the lifter galley during the modifications? If not, those will puke oil constantly, resulting in low flow. There's a modified plate with o-rings that go on every tower, and seal them up.
