Oil pressure drop 2007 Tahoe 5.3

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kingbeepa

kingbeepa

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confirm lack of oil pressure is real. if so, replace with high volume aftermarket pump. drive till blows up or you get sick or it. whichever comes first haha.


bit confused thou, is the low oil code being set all the time, or only sometimes? have you been driving it around with it saying pull over for lack of pressure.



yours sounds lower than most. but I've seen more than a few threads about low oil pressure. drop the pan to change o ring, new pressure sensors and stuff only to laster go back in for a high volume pump. no clue why it's still low, but the pump hides it and they don't seem to blow up soon after. so eh.
It begins pressure reading around 20 then slowly drops til it alarms.

Yes, I do drive it for a short period before stopping, then it resets the cycle after starting up the engine again.

Already replaced O-ring, pickup tube, oil pan gasket (fixed the leak), oil pressure sensor, and the connector plug for the level sensor… so far.

Also, this all happened after changing the oil and filter. What brand is best to rule out lack of quality in the big picture?
 

Charlie207

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It begins pressure reading around 20 then slowly drops til it alarms.

Yes, I do drive it for a short period before stopping, then it resets the cycle after starting up the engine again.

Already replaced O-ring, pickup tube, oil pan gasket (fixed the leak), oil pressure sensor, and the connector plug for the level sensor… so far.

Also, this all happened after changing the oil and filter. What brand is best to rule out lack of quality in the big picture?

I think any 5W-30 Dexos 1 and up oil would be fine. As far as filters go, probably any new name brand filter would be fine to test the pressure issue.

I'd still look at the VLOM gasket as another place it could leak. RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11378161&cc=3305712&pt=10710&jsn=11275
 

Marky Dissod

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As far as filters go, probably any new name brand filter would be fine to test the pressure issue.
My admittedly blunt rule of thumb for oil filters is as follows:
Never buy any brand name's 'basic' offering.
I.E.:
instead of Fram's PH3675, try XG3675 or TG3675
instead of Purolator L25288, try PBL25288
instead of Wix 51522, try 51522XP
Mobil1 M1-206 doesn't have an upgrade, right?

Also, I prefer ACDelco PF61 over the parts mungqi's 'recommendation'.
 

j91z28d1

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It begins pressure reading around 20 then slowly drops til it alarms.

Yes, I do drive it for a short period before stopping, then it resets the cycle after starting up the engine again.

Already replaced O-ring, pickup tube, oil pan gasket (fixed the leak), oil pressure sensor, and the connector plug for the level sensor… so far.

Also, this all happened after changing the oil and filter. What brand is best to rule out lack of quality in the big picture?


I wish I could find it, someone posted a video on here of a cam bearing, pan off looking up you could see the bearing had moved and was showing enough to uncover the oil passageway. that would be a major internal pressure leak.


so my 2 cents on oil pressure, atleast what makes sense to me. if you have zero pressure with a high volume pump after it's warmed up, that's a major leak, blockage or sensor failing in a less common way. for leaks there's a bypass valve in the pump that can get stuck and just dump all the oil back into the pan before pressurizing the engine. on some years there's what'd called a afm bypass valve on the inside drivers side of the pan. it's set at 60psi bypass, if it stuck open it could bypass a ton of oil.. as for the vlom gaskets, some preach they can leak, if you still have the afm lifters in place, it doesn't matter. they are vented when the vlom solenoids are not sending oil pressure down to the lifters. my disable kit I installed it has you literally cut the gaskets off those ports and leave them open to vent any backed up pressure that could unintentionally activate the afm lifter. I saw no drop in oil pressure cutting the gaskets off and leaving the holes open. if you have switched to non afm lifters, those ports should be blocked. but I find it hard to believe you'll drop to zero psi over all 8 being left open.



as for o'ring, instead of pulling everything apart to try new sizes, just find a steep ish hill and park nose down, the oil will cover the o'ring. if the oil pressure comes up, the o'ring is leaking, if not. eh. you can also add 2 extra qt of oil at idle. that will cover the o ring too. Just don't drive around much with 2 extra in there. I think there's 2 posts out of 509 where replaceing an o'ring fixed it completely.


mechanical oil pressure gauge is where to start, there's a oil port on a ls on the front drivers side of the block, it's in the oil galley right after the oil pump, before the filter, so that would rule out cheap filter lowering oil pressure.


if you do end up with the pan off again, look up in there and make sure all the cam bearings are where they should be.


at that point if you don't want to pull the engine to find the issue. might be interesting to throw one of the hybrid pumps on it for a science experiment. they fit a standard ls engine but are a vain style variable displacement pump more like what the newer LT engines have now, and will flow a very high volume of oil. total Band-aid but just for reference, the normal engine gm minimum spec for oil. pressure hot is something like 7psi at 1000 rpm. the hybrid minimum is 36psi hot at 1000 rpm. mine sets at 50-60psi at all times.
 

Charlie207

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I wish I could find it, someone posted a video on here of a cam bearing, pan off looking up you could see the bearing had moved and was showing enough to uncover the oil passageway. that would be a major internal pressure leak.


so my 2 cents on oil pressure, atleast what makes sense to me. if you have zero pressure with a high volume pump after it's warmed up, that's a major leak, blockage or sensor failing in a less common way. for leaks there's a bypass valve in the pump that can get stuck and just dump all the oil back into the pan before pressurizing the engine. on some years there's what'd called a afm bypass valve on the inside drivers side of the pan. it's set at 60psi bypass, if it stuck open it could bypass a ton of oil.. as for the vlom gaskets, some preach they can leak, if you still have the afm lifters in place, it doesn't matter. they are vented when the vlom solenoids are not sending oil pressure down to the lifters. my disable kit I installed it has you literally cut the gaskets off those ports and leave them open to vent any backed up pressure that could unintentionally activate the afm lifter. I saw no drop in oil pressure cutting the gaskets off and leaving the holes open. if you have switched to non afm lifters, those ports should be blocked. but I find it hard to believe you'll drop to zero psi over all 8 being left open.



as for o'ring, instead of pulling everything apart to try new sizes, just find a steep ish hill and park nose down, the oil will cover the o'ring. if the oil pressure comes up, the o'ring is leaking, if not. eh. you can also add 2 extra qt of oil at idle. that will cover the o ring too. Just don't drive around much with 2 extra in there. I think there's 2 posts out of 509 where replaceing an o'ring fixed it completely.


mechanical oil pressure gauge is where to start, there's a oil port on a ls on the front drivers side of the block, it's in the oil galley right after the oil pump, before the filter, so that would rule out cheap filter lowering oil pressure.


if you do end up with the pan off again, look up in there and make sure all the cam bearings are where they should be.


at that point if you don't want to pull the engine to find the issue. might be interesting to throw one of the hybrid pumps on it for a science experiment. they fit a standard ls engine but are a vain style variable displacement pump more like what the newer LT engines have now, and will flow a very high volume of oil. total Band-aid but just for reference, the normal engine gm minimum spec for oil. pressure hot is something like 7psi at 1000 rpm. the hybrid minimum is 36psi hot at 1000 rpm. mine sets at 50-60psi at all times.

Yeah, the machinist that looked over my project engine said that the only bearings he's seen actually wear out in an LS are the cam bearings; the mains and con-rods all seemed to last forever as long as no serious trash passed through the oil system. (like mine, luckily)

The other thing to consider is that a high-volume pump can lead to high pressure over time, if the the oil passages start to build up with gunk, causing the relief valve to wear out.

From another forum about Melling oil pumps:
  • M295: standard volume/ standard pressure
  • 10295: standard volume/ high pressure
  • 10296: high volume/ standard pressure

The 10296 flows 30% more oil compared to the M295, and was designed for DoD engines that needed the higher volume of oil to operate the AFM lifters. It was never meant for non-DoD engines. Allegedly you can provide too much volume that it starts increasing case pressure through the galleys and back in to the pump, causing the relief valve to constantly be open. (remember, pressure is resistance to flow.)
 
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