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I wish i searched this earlier. I'm certain this exact problem turned into the death of my original 5.7l in my Denali. I figured oil pump so i wasn't far off but a little too late. City driving is tough on engines.
Cross member is easy to remove. Cleaning the years and years of crud that has collected on the top of it takes a bit more time. Not sure what other route you could go other than lifting the engine.half a day isn't bad. I always thought you had to lift the engine to clear the cross member to get the pan off. It looks like the cross member can be unbolted but I've never seen anyone go that route for some reason.
That is Exactly what mine is doing. Got a quote from a GM Dealership in my area of 7.5 Hours Labor. My Tahoe is a 00 with 282,000 mi. How you got the differential back in place without a jack is amazing.I had just started having an issue with startup oil pressure slowly rising then dropping off on my 07 Yukon Denali XL, also had a pretty bad oil leak so I decided to tackle the oil pan gasket and pickup tube o ring.
The o ring was dry rotted and broke into pieces when I pulled it off so I was pretty happy to find that after the work getting to it. The whole process wasn't near as bad as I had been expecting, no lift and not even a jack for the front diff. If I did it again Id definitely use a jack to get the diff back up in place.
The GOOD... I've got oil pressure like I've never had in the year of owning it, the BAD... I think my oil leak is the rear main seal plate.
Did replacing the oil pump restore your oil pressure ? Had a local mechanic tell me he has never heard of the oil tube O-ring problem. I told him about the many cases of that on this forum and he still did not believe that would cause low oil pressure. I asked him what he thought the problem was he said it's most likely worn Bearings in the engine.It's about a half-day job if you just drop down the front diff enough to clear the pan but it's real tight to get the pan off that way. I'm sure the service procedure calls for pulling the diff completely off which is more involved. FYI, I replaced my oil pump at 150 k and the old O-ring was like new. I'd double check your actual oil pressure with a mechanical gauge before diagnosing it as an O-Ring failure.
I never had low oil pressure; I was doing a cam and timing set so since I was right there I did the pump. But if you've verified low pressure with a mechanical gauge in order to rule out a sensor or gauge problem, the o-ring or pump would be a good place to start. There's also high-volume pumps made that can help if it's worn bearings. I know Melling makes one.Did replacing the oil pump restore your oil pressure ? Had a local mechanic tell me he has never heard of the oil tube O-ring problem. I told him about the many cases of that on this forum and he still did not believe that would cause low oil pressure. I asked him what he thought the problem was he said it's most likely worn Bearings in the engine.