Oil pressure oddity

[swathdiver]

I don't get what happened here? Will I be stuck in this oil change cycle forever? Was the filter clogged, or bad? I just doesn't make a lot of sense to me that new oil is the solution, when the old oil had about 900 miles on it.

I told you what it was Jeremy, the filter. Which filter did you buy and put on?

The K&N HP-2011 has a 1" nut on the end so you can use a wrench or socket to remove it. If you don't want to use that filter, when you do find the one you like, get a filter socket with the same number of "pleats" so it'll fit on it and you can still use a 3/8" ratchet to remove it.

 

[Wolfbraid]

I told you what it was Jeremy, the filter. Which filter did you buy and put on?

The K&N HP-2011 has a 1" nut on the end so you can use a wrench or socket to remove it. If you don't want to use that filter, when you do find the one you like, get a filter socket with the same number of "pleats" so it'll fit on it and you can still use a 3/8" ratchet to remove it.

That's still tough to prove if it was the filter. He flushed, and changed the oil.
He'd have to just change the filter to narrow it down.
The flush could have cleaned the pressure sender/screen, it's so hard to say.

I've run the KN Filter, Mobil 1, and currently AC Delco filters and have had the pressure issue(still have it today, although it stopped for a while yesterday and this morning, but was back this afternoon)
oil Change/flush/filter(fram it's all they had) happening tomorrow.
If I'm adventurous I'll pull the sensor and screen for inspection, but it's a PITA so I'll take my chances.

 

[SnowDrifter]

I very much doubt it would be the filter. Even if it were 100% plugged, the filter bypass valve would open up

 

[SnowDrifter]

Other thoughts: Possibly a failing oil pump? Sticking relief valve?

 

[BG1988]

So update, after talking with the service writer at the dealership, he suggested I flush the engine and change the oil and filter again. So I did that tonight. A few observations.... one when running the flush, oil pressure still sucked, 20 at idle warm. Checked oil level before flush, was full according to dipstick. Drained oil, oil didn't look too bad, I poured it into some containers for disposal, and came out to about 6 qts, so all good there. The filter is a PITA if you don't have the right wrench, which I didn't. There was a lot of oil leakage around the filter and the bottom of the oil pan. I had just recently started to notice a leak. The filter was extremely hard to get loose, but it eventually came off. Changed the filter, filled the oil, and fired her up. And wouldn't you know, 60 psi at idle, about 50 warm idle, and never lower then 50 while taking it for a little cruise. I don't get what happened here? Will I be stuck in this oil change cycle forever? Was the filter clogged, or bad? I just doesn't make a lot of sense to me that new oil is the solution, when the old oil had about 900 miles on it.

in order to get a true idle read it has to be in reverse gear..

drive gear will never give a true idle reading.
idle in park/drive is about 1000 rpm so you don't stall out while charging with the electrical motor...

while reverse gear will show a lower RPM as it does not power the the electrical motor (generator)...

 

[Tahoehybrid18]

I've only owned since November, have no clue what oil or filter the dealership I bough it from used. When it was changed to 2 mo ths ago, it was at a Chevy dealership, and so they used their standard oil, and ac delco filter. I used the same ac delco filter this time, and Amazon basics oil, as this is just a experiment to see if the oil pressure would get better by changing those things. The dealer I bought it from hasnt left me with alot of confidence. After crawling underneath last night to change the oil, I noticed both front sway links are broke, and the driver side has been digging into the CV axle boot, and there grease everywhere, so I got more work on my plate.

 

[Fless]

The dealer I bought it from hasnt left me with alot of confidence. After crawling underneath last night to change the oil, I noticed both front sway links are broke, and the driver side has been digging into the CV axle boot, and there grease everywhere, so I got more work on my plate.

All the more reason to do, or have a trusted shop do, a thorough pre-purchase inspection. If nothing else, what's found can be a negotiating tool. And you'd have a much better idea of what to expect in repairs; there will always be repairs to be done that the prior owner put off.

 

[Wolfbraid]

Oh boy, hate to piggy back on your post, my oil flush and change didn't go so well this time.

Ran the gunk stuff, 5 min on cold engine(as recommended)
Pulled drain plug... ....(let me add a few more pauses here) ... ...
Nothing, my oil didn't come out, and then it passed a nasty chunk of sludge.
and I got all 6 quarts out plus some for the Gunk flush...

I use to work for a shop that did mechanical flushes, I'm feeling I need this or to pull the pan(not me a shop)

Running almost back up to pressure, I may run for a week or so and just change the filter but not sure at this point, just playing it by ear...

one thing for certain, the engine is still running as quiet as can be.(maybe all the sludge is a sound insulator hah)

 

[Tahoehybrid18]

So, just replicated the trip I took last weekend that lead to my oil pressures demise. During the whole trip, about 2 hrs round trip, oil pressure never got below 42. Also, the pan is still dry after cleaning it during the oil change, so no leak.

 

[swathdiver]

So, just replicated the trip I took last weekend that lead to my oil pressures demise. During the whole trip, about 2 hrs round trip, oil pressure never got below 42. Also, the pan is still dry after cleaning it during the oil change, so no leak.

Awesome sauce!