OR VietVet Is Still Throwing $$$ at 2005 Z71

[OR VietVet]

Ok, that's the one I got, too, from RA. No nut, and no new dual cable connector, though. The bag had been opened, so I'm not sure if either should have been there. My old ones are in good enough shape.

Mine is just the cable

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, I had the annoying rub noise from the rear park brake cables not allowing retraction and shoes rubbing inside drums for the parking brake. I bought all the cables from the park brake actuator under the dash to the rear. Turns out the front cable and the intermediate cable were in excellent shape and in no need of replacement. The only problem cables were the rear cables. We took them off and actually had problems pushing and pulling the cables thru the housings. That was the problem even in the no salt the roads PNW. We replaced the cables at the rear and adjusted as needed and the park brake works as should and holds the truck on a steep hill, even in neutral. Could not be happier. After my recent 5500k mile trip and that noise/problem coming up, I am now satisfied with the repair. No more rub noise at all. I actually hated not being able to set the parking brake. It is a parking brake and not an emergency brake. God Dammit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[OR VietVet]

More maintenance and repairs to follow!!!!!

 

[Fless]

Threaded cable. My new one looks like this on one end: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=372405&cc=1431156&pt=1696&jsn=942

View attachment 376720

I'd be curious to see what the threaded end and nut position look like after your full cable replacement. And I assume that you had to remove the pedal assembly to replace the front cable -- or didn't you change the front ones?

I replaced both rear cables on mine but it made no difference to the cable length, and the threaded rod is adjusted all the way. I suspect that one of my other two cables (front and intermediate) is slightly stretched. But the parking brake shoes are adjusted better so it does hold for the most part.

 

[OR VietVet]

I already sent the unused cables back but the rear ones fixed the problem of noise. If I did the front cable it would have required the removal of the park brake assembly under the dash,

 

[03X2]

Now let's talk about the mechanical and maintenance items. This is a complete list of what has been done so far:

1. ALL fluids changed. Brake fluid, trans fluid and filter, coolant, power steering, front axle, rear axle, transfer case, oil and filter....etc.

2. New brake rotors, front and rear and new pads front and rear. New parking brake shoes and all adjusting assembly.

3. All 4 oxygen sensors.

4. Trans Corvette servo.

5. All 4 KYB shocks for Auto Ride Suspension.

6. All cooling system hoses and new tees at the firewall and new reservoir and cap.

7. Both belts and tensioners and idler.

8. New MAF and MAP sensor.

9. New Cam and Crank sensors.

10. New plugs, wires, air filter and clean throttle bore.

11. New rear upper and lower control arms.

12. New high mounted third brake light.

13. New transmission cooling lines.

14. New thermostat.

”NEW” Rig!

 

[03X2]

Nice work. I’d like to lend you my Tahoe for a while.

So do I!!

 

[OR VietVet]

Those of you that read this thread know that a close friend of mine was a part owner of a two man garage and he let me use a lift at times and even did some work on my Tahoe if I didn't feel like doing it myself. Anyway, the two partners have split up because of drama problems and what my friend believes to be, money transactions that did not make sense with no explanation. My friend is now going to open another shop with another friend of his, that will be on private land owned by his friend. An even bigger garage and they are already getting it set up and have 6 accounts that will have a constant supply of used vehicles from car lots that want work done before selling the vehicles. He called to let me know that they will have a lift for me, if I need it. There may even be enough room for me to do my at home work out of that garage. Will see about that. I like having my tools here with me.

 

[tom3]

I've noticed around here lately there is a huge demand for auto repair these days. A lot of the work is not the high tech stuff but more routine repair that people just don't want to pay the $100 an hour dealer shops to do. Good independent shops are super busy these days.

 

[OR VietVet]

I've noticed around here lately there is a huge demand for auto repair these days. A lot of the work is not the high tech stuff but more routine repair that people just don't want to pay the $100 an hour dealer shops to do. Good independent shops are super busy these days.

That is exactly why I am staying busy at my home shop. Just yesterday I spent 1.5 hours looking at a 2007 Honda Pilot for a P0301 and P0303 misfire, oil leak and rub noise at front when turning left and right. The noise was just the new aggressive tread on the tires she just bought. The oil leak was obvious from a just done, 8 months ago, oil pan seal replacement and I found a few very loose attaching bolts. I tightened all bolts and cleaned all off on the pan and all around it. Was dripping on exhaust and she could smell. Was adding about 1/2 quart of oil every month. The smell was the biggest concern. The misfire codes had been ongoing and her "mechanically inclined" fiance had already replaced all 6 plugs and all 6 ignition coils. It had started out with just a P0301 but after he did the parts replacement, the P0303 came up. I pulled both coils and plugs for #1 and #3 cylinders and they were not tight enough to compress the compression washer on the plugs. I fixed that and cleared the codes and told him to pull the other 4 plugs and inspect and reinstall and tighten enough to compress the washers. It would normally take 1-3 days to have codes come back after checked at a parts store and clear codes. i was saving this single mother money by having him do the 4 other plugs. I also explained to him/her about what I had found on you tube about the pcv and egr causing misfire codes. I showed him the pcv location and where the egr was and told him to watch the videos to address them. I did check for a vacuum leak and found none. The plugs I pulled looked pristine and so I did not do the compression test because it idled smooth and acceled smooth but was intermittently throwing the code P0301 and then the new code of P0303 after his work on plugs and coils. I had the 1.5 hours in it at $60 an hour and I gave her a break and charged her $60. She tried to pay me $80 but I would not take it. She will tell others.

Within next 2-3 days I am doing the common 2016 V6 Jeep Wrangler engine oil cooler and filter assembly, under the upper and lower intake assemblies. That will be a relatively easy job but will take some time. This job is for the head bartender at my American Legion. I am thinking about upping my labor rate from $60 to $75 an hour.