P1351 after replacing ignition coil and icm

[doncaruana]

Really getting frustrated on this...Turns out he only replaced the distributor cap and rotor the first time (after which I got the initial 1351 code). So now he finally replaced the whole distributor (showed me where the gears were worn, blah, blah). Said it never had the start up issue (where it would start, run one second, then stop - which is when it would throw the 1351 code) and started it multiple times in front of me. Said he had adjusted the timing and it was right at zero. I drive it home, pop in my obd reader and start it up and not only does it do the start/stop/start and throw the code, when I look at the cam retard, it's at -8.2 (at about 2800 rpm when I screen capped but it's consistent).

I honestly don't think the guy would lie. Options are a) he lied, b) he did it wrong/didn't get rpm up high enough to set it right, c) it got messed up on the way home.

Mind you, once running, it still seems to work just fine.

What would be the scenario that would make option c happen?

 

[YukonGTmaster]

The Cam Retard Offset should be 0 with a +2 or -2 tolerance above 1000rpm. I set mine at 1500rpm. Not sure about setting it at 2800rpm? Maybe someone else will chime in. Did you verify that the stock distributor hold down bracket was re-installed for distributor adjustability?

 

[exp500]

Scenario/blame matters little because your truck is not fixed.
What is Current status? Is the -8.2 current with no p1345? Which APP are you using? Torque Pro? There are a few threads in engine drivetrain about changing a factor in Torque to get a more reliable number. Test also "usually" done 1000-1500 RPM steady. Tighten Distributor.

As it stands you need to make clear what has been done and in what order...All in one place..... So no new distributor....Just a cap and rotor..... Was coil changed? ICM? Delco/Delphi/GM parts? Ground wire to firewall working? Does the P1351 code still pop? See post 26 and 27 again.

 

[doncaruana]

The Cam Retard Offset should be 0 with a +2 or -2 tolerance above 1000rpm. I set mine at 1500rpm. Not sure about setting it at 2800rpm? Maybe someone else will chime in. Did you verify that the stock distributor hold down bracket was re-installed for distributor adjustability?

My basic point was that I made sure I got the rpm over 1000 before checking the number. I know it's supposed to by +/-2 which is why I'm frutsrated. I haven't looked at the hold down yet.

 

[doncaruana]

Scenario/blame matters little because your truck is not fixed.
What is Current status? Is the -8.2 current with no p1345? Which APP are you using? Torque Pro? There are a few threads in engine drivetrain about changing a factor in Torque to get a more reliable number. Test also "usually" done 1000-1500 RPM steady. Tighten Distributor.

As it stands you need to make clear what has been done and in what order...All in one place..... So no new distributor....Just a cap and rotor..... Was coil changed? ICM? Delco/Delphi/GM parts? Ground wire to firewall working? Does the P1351 code still pop? See post 26 and 27 again.

I don't care about blame - I'm trying to figure out if it's even possible that the guy had it set at 0 and by the time I checked it after a short drive it was at -8 (it read -13 when I took it in).

So let's take it from the top...
Rainy day, truck would not start - no spark (verified).
Next day, dry, started up. I've read that some of the ignition stuff on these can start to cause issues over time, so I took it in to a local mechanic that I've been using for years. He said it was the distributor, I told him to change the ignition coil and ICM also. At this point, he changed the cap, rotor, spark plug wires, ignition coil, and ICM. I don't know what brand the cap & rotor are but the rest are autozone duralast I'm told.
This is when I start getting P1351. Start it, stalls after a second, starts next time, runs fine. Most times it starts with no issue, but every time it does one of these 1 second stalls, it throws P1351. I take him an AC Delco ICM and we swap it out, but this doesn't change anything.
At this point, I get a recommendation from this board for the BAFX OBD plug in (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS) and I'm using DashCommand with it. That's where I got the cam retard readings from and it tells me that it's at -13.
I take it back to the mechanic and tell him it looks like the cam retard is off. This time he replaced the entire distributor, which apparently is from Autozone but keeps the new cap/rotor he originally did the replacement with (I don't know why - the first cap/rotor were higher quality supposedly?) He tells me that now he's getting a P1345 and he's going to set the timing but that that he's not getting P1351 anymore.
I pick it up and he's resolved the P1345 and he shows me it starts normally multiple times, tells me he set it "right at 0 degrees", and shows me there are no codes. I drive home, grab said OBD reader and pop it in. Try to start the truck and get the insta-stall, followed by normal startup. Using DashCommand I see the P1351 code again and the offset at -8 degrees (but no P1345)

I'm tired of taking it back and forth to this guy, despite the fact that I like him and he's done good work in the past. So I'm wondering if maybe I should dive in and try to make the adjustment myself (presuming the correct hold down is there) or if there is some weird scenario where the offset would change by 8 degrees after a short drive.

 

[east302]

To me, the CMP and the P1351 may not necessarily be related. Had the distributor ever been out of the vehicle prior to this? When were the lower intake gaskets replaced? Meaning - it could have been off for some time and you’re only just now noticing it.

If you have a multimeter, I’d suggest going through that GM diagnostic table for the P1351. While there, you can set the CMP to zero. Turn the distributor until the tab for the cap screw is nearly hitting the upper intake. Looking from the front, that tab is on the left and the distributor wiring connector on the upper right. That’s pretty close to zero for starters and then fine tune it.

 

[doncaruana]

To me, the CMP and the P1351 may not necessarily be related. Had the distributor ever been out of the vehicle prior to this? When were the lower intake gaskets replaced? Meaning - it could have been off for some time and you’re only just now noticing it.

If you have a multimeter, I’d suggest going through that GM diagnostic table for the P1351. While there, you can set the CMP to zero. Turn the distributor until the tab for the cap screw is nearly hitting the upper intake. Looking from the front, that tab is on the left and the distributor wiring connector on the upper right. That’s pretty close to zero for starters and then fine tune it.

Not sure they're related either. Just layers of an onion at this point. I do not ever recall the distributor being out specifically but the I believe the lower intake gaskets were done some time ago (not sure about this either).

I've got a meter.

 

[YukonGTmaster]

I had the dreaded P1345. When I set my distributor, this was the initial at Top Dead Center. At 1500rpm, I had to rotate it counter clockwise until the ear where the screw for the cap goes into the distributor, was actually contacting the upper intake. I was told by the forum dudes that that was normal. I think I got mine to -0.3 at 1500rpm. Have a look back there and see if that distributor is rotated near to touching the upper intake.

 

[doncaruana]

I had the dreaded P1345. When I set my distributor, this was the initial at Top Dead Center. At 1500rpm, I had to rotate it counter clockwise until the ear where the screw for the cap goes into the distributor, was actually contacting the upper intake. I was told by the forum dudes that that was normal. I think I got mine to -0.3 at 1500rpm. Have a look back there and see if that distributor is rotated near to touching the upper intake.

Actually the P1345 is gone... I'm back to 1351

 

[YukonGTmaster]

Actually the P1345 is gone... I'm back to 1351

Oh man!