P1351 after replacing ignition coil and icm

[copperhens]

A friend suggested deoxit. Think I'll order some to have on hand...

I created this account just to bump this thread. My truck is doing the same thing with the crank, no start, starts right up the second time fine. It’s been doing it for two years and i've replaced just about everything. Did you ever figure it out?

 

[exp500]

I created this account just to bump this thread. My truck is doing the same thing with the crank, no start, starts right up the second time fine. It’s been doing it for two years and i've replaced just about everything. Did you ever figure it out?

Go ahead and start your own thread as this one is quite old and jumbled.

 

[buttonsandknobs]

FIXED... I found this thread about 6 months ago. I had the same issue. Well I finally ordered a new OEM ignition module and a Delphi coil. When installing the coil I noticed that there was 1lb of epoxy coating on it, and the bracket for the coil was painted. I sanded off some of the coating on a corner where the mounting bolt goes through. I sanded the corresponding corner of the bracket as well as the bottom of the bracket where it mounts to the intake manifold. NO MORE CODE or having to start the truck twice.
Hope this helps.
I am not going to bother with trying the "old" ignition module ( was only 6 months old but aftermarket) in an attempt to isolate what was the true cause, the grounding or the aftermarket module. That said You may want to sand off the paint and get good ground before ordering an new OE module. They are like hens teeth and quite expensive.
I just though it may help others. PS I fixed many poor grounds and adjusted the timing 1000 times and none of that made any difference. I was a euro car tech for 25 years.
Thinking back I had an ignition issue 2 years ago and the replacement coil came with a new bracket that was painted. That may have been what started the whole issue.
The vehicle in question is a 99 GMC k1500 suburban with a 5.7 . Not a daily driver.

 

[buttonsandknobs]

Ran into a start issue when it was really rainy and wet but started again when the next afternoon after it was been dry. Had original distributor, ignition coil, and ignition control module with 290k on my 97 Tahoe. So I had them all replaced as well as spark plug wires (plugs were already new). Now it sort of seems like the first time I try to start it it will start but then immediately stop but after that its fine. But I got this p1351 code now. I even cleared it after the work was done and it came back. The description says it's "ICM circuit high voltage".

Would a bad ICM cause this? I still have no check engine light and I'm just puzzled exactly what this means and what it will do in the long run.

UPDATE: Went out this morning, cleared the code and took it for a 30 minute test drive. Came home turned it off, started it again. No reoccurrence thus far and no issues starting at all. Is this something that could have just been a little wonky the first bit of starts, etc right after all the changes and had to get all in sync?

FIXED... I found this thread about 6 months ago. I had the same issue. Well I finally ordered a new OEM ignition module and a Delphi coil. When installing the coil I noticed that there was 1lb of epoxy coating on it, and the bracket for the coil was painted. I sanded off some of the coating on a corner where the mounting bolt goes through. I sanded the corresponding corner of the bracket as well as the bottom of the bracket where it mounts to the intake manifold. NO MORE CODE or having to start the truck twice.
I am not going to bother with trying the "old" ignition module ( was only 6 months old but aftermarket) in an attempt to isolate what was the true cause the grounding or the aftermarket module. That said You may want to sand off the paint and get good ground before ordering an new OE module. They are like hens teeth an quite expensive.

There is more info in a post i left on page 9 of this thread.