Pacesetter Longtube headers.........

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Sparkyz07Denali

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has anyone used these? ease of installation? obviously will need to have them coated or painted with high temp paint or something. but they seem affordable. I am going to be installing some bolt-ons. Was curious if these are even worth considering.

 

iamdub

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You'd definitely need some good ceramic coating to keep the heat in. You'll lose your cats so the exhaust will be MUCH louder. You'll also need to get a Y-pipe. All in, you'd be right around the cost of these: http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/t...ilverado-sierra-long-tube-tri-y-headers_15730

They're what I have. They're 14 gauge (versus the 16 gauge of the Pacesetters), have multiple layers of ceramic coating and include a Y-pipe. For the money and with no other or minimal mods, I think they're the best bang for the buck. The tri-Y design is like the best of shorties and long tubes combined, so you shouldn't really trade low-end power for top-end or vice versa. Again, no cats so expect some noise. They don't tick at the collectors like long tubes tend to do, or, at least, not as loudly. My guess is the design breaks up the pulses which attenuates that. Depending on your year model, you might have to modify the Y-pipe where it connects to the rest of the exhaust. Other than that, I had no problems at all with fitment. Over two years and 19K miles on 'em using stock-replacement bolts in the heads. The only issue I had was two of the three bolts in one of the collector flanges worked loose and fell out. I can't say for sure if this was my fault, though. I could've not tightened them enough.
 
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ivin74

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has anyone used these? ease of installation? obviously will need to have them coated or painted with high temp paint or something. but they seem affordable. I am going to be installing some bolt-ons. Was curious if these are even worth considering.



Don't waste your money on cs headers, they rust within a couple years. Save ur money and buy some SS headers
 
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Sparkyz07Denali

Sparkyz07Denali

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You'd definitely need some good ceramic coating to keep the heat in. You'll lose your cats so the exhaust will be MUCH louder. You'll also need to get a Y-pipe. All in, you'd be right around the cost of these: http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/t...ilverado-sierra-long-tube-tri-y-headers_15730

They're what I have. They're 14 gauge (versus the 16 gauge of the Pacesetters), have multiple layers of ceramic coating and include a Y-pipe. For the money and with no other or minimal mods, I think they're the best bang for the buck. The tri-Y design is like the best of shorties and long tubes combined, so you shouldn't really trade low-end power for top-end or vice versa. Again, no cats so expect some noise. They don't tick at the collectors like long tubes tend to do, or, at least, not as loudly. My guess is the design breaks up the pulses which attenuates that. Depending on your year model, you might have to modify the Y-pipe where it connects to the rest of the exhaust. Other than that, I had no problems at all with fitment. Over two years and 19K miles on 'em using stock-replacement bolts in the heads. The only issue I had was two of the three bolts in one of the collector flanges worked loose and fell out. I can't say for sure if this was my fault, though. I could've not tightened them enough.
I will look in to it. I am also looking in to the Texas Speed and Performance longtubes, my plan is to build this close to a '13 Camaro SS I used to have. So headers, cam, heads are all in the works . But also have concerns if the trans cant take the increased HP. I have read the 6L80E is good to 600hp at the crank and I was hoping for 500hp at the tires.


Did you need to get your engine tuned after header installation?
 

iamdub

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I will look in to it. I am also looking in to the Texas Speed and Performance longtubes, my plan is to build this close to a '13 Camaro SS I used to have. So headers, cam, heads are all in the works . But also have concerns if the trans cant take the increased HP. I have read the 6L80E is good to 600hp at the crank and I was hoping for 500hp at the tires.


Did you need to get your engine tuned after header installation?

@ivin74 brings up a good point about rust. I never think of that aspect being where I live. If you live in a salted area and stainless steel is in your budget- get 'em. I'd still strongly recommend having them coated. Last I looked, the Speed Engineering headers appeared identical to the TSPs but a good bit cheaper.

I think I've read about the same on the 6L80's capacity. For 500 at the tires, you'd be pushing it. Careful Torque Management tuning will really help, but at the expense of holeshot and mid-shift performance. But, it's cheaper to lose a few tenths in the 1/4 than replace a trans. Being a street vehicle, you likely won't notice any loss. It'll be faster and snappier, regardless.

I did my headers when I did a cam, stall and mild head work. The headers are catless, so, I needed a tune anyway. As far as headers on a stock vehicle, a tune isn't an absolute necessity. The PCM will eventually adjust and be pretty decent, but it won't be optimal.
 

mattbta

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You'd definitely need some good ceramic coating to keep the heat in. You'll lose your cats so the exhaust will be MUCH louder. You'll also need to get a Y-pipe. All in, you'd be right around the cost of these: http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/t...ilverado-sierra-long-tube-tri-y-headers_15730

They're what I have. They're 14 gauge (versus the 16 gauge of the Pacesetters), have multiple layers of ceramic coating and include a Y-pipe. For the money and with no other or minimal mods, I think they're the best bang for the buck. The tri-Y design is like the best of shorties and long tubes combined, so you shouldn't really trade low-end power for top-end or vice versa. Again, no cats so expect some noise. They don't tick at the collectors like long tubes tend to do, or, at least, not as loudly. My guess is the design breaks up the pulses which attenuates that. Depending on your year model, you might have to modify the Y-pipe where it connects to the rest of the exhaust. Other than that, I had no problems at all with fitment. Over two years and 19K miles on 'em using stock-replacement bolts in the heads. The only issue I had was two of the three bolts in one of the collector flanges worked loose and fell out. I can't say for sure if this was my fault, though. I could've not tightened them enough.
Every time you post about these, I want some. However, I won’t go catless again after my ls1 f-bodies in my teens. I looked quickly, so might have missed it, but does Doug have a catted y-pipe? Getting hard to find exhaust shops around here surprisingly, so not sure how much luck I would have getting one gabbed.
 

Trey Hardy

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I’ve had good luck with my speed engineering headers my tuner has a hookup and gets em for me under or around 300$ shipped! I just got another set for my Tahoe only issue is the driver 02 bung hits the floor board can have a new bunge welded but my backwoods ass just beat a slight bend in it at the bunge and beat the floor board with in some and it don’t rattle anymore when in doubt get a bigger hammer
 

iamdub

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Every time you post about these, I want some. However, I won’t go catless again after my ls1 f-bodies in my teens. I looked quickly, so might have missed it, but does Doug have a catted y-pipe? Getting hard to find exhaust shops around here surprisingly, so not sure how much luck I would have getting one gabbed.

You're a wise one. I'm always plotting on how to get cats back into the system. Unfortunately, DT doesn't offer a catted Y-pipe. It'll take some careful finagling and small cats, but it should be possible. My problem is that I want them as close to the collectors as possible to ensure they get hot enough. Temperature is a major factor for cats to ensure complete light-off and catalyzing. Otherwise, they'll clog.
 

iamdub

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I’ve had good luck with my speed engineering headers my tuner has a hookup and gets em for me under or around 300$ shipped! I just got another set for my Tahoe only issue is the driver 02 bung hits the floor board can have a new bunge welded but my backwoods ass just beat a slight bend in it at the bunge and beat the floor board with in some and it don’t rattle anymore when in doubt get a bigger hammer

And denting them won't make the slightest dent in their performance. Have you seen that episode of Engine Masters where they incrementally beat up some headers and measured the effects? They had to mangle the hell out of 'em before seeing any appreciable loss. I think the episode was called "Header Bash".
 

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