Paint Prep / Body Work Tips

[Matthew Jeschke]

Only time a guidecoat is really needed is on bodywork. Its just another step to make sure the bodywork is straight.

Yeah I was wondering about that. Eventhough I bought a POS truck body is dent free (for most part) and clean.

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[SteveB]

Oh mine was knocking when I bought it , swapped in a 6.0 over the weekend. Have been slowly getting the body to where I'm happy with it.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Oh mine was knocking when I bought it , swapped in a 6.0 over the weekend. Have been slowly getting the body to where I'm happy with it.

I want to do the 6.0 swap. Thought I found a motor but was in CA 9 hrs away. I think I will eventually buy another 6.0 truck, swap engines and sell the one I buy lol

One thing that is annoying me rt now is the roof drip molding. Mine is im horrible shape. I found where to buy new but cannot figure out how to remove the old.

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[SteveB]

The roof rail moulding is 2 sided taped in. You are talking about what you are calling the gutter? If so just get a screwdriver (flat blade) , get a corner to start to lift , grab it with you hands a start to pull it up. careful you don't fall off the ladder.

I love the 6.0 in my Yukon. I got super lucky on my 6.0 , a guy I work with had one in a 1 ton truck with roughly 37000 kms(22990 miles). I paid 750.00 , then another 475.00 for the computer flash.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

This is the part I am referring to in picture below. It is crumbling appart. I may try and salvage ones at junkyard (they have a bunch of tahoes and yukons of this bodytype). Otherwise is 80$ each.

Curious what is a good DA sander to get? They make a lot of them and some are super cheap. I am hearing short throw (smaller pad?) Palm da sander. Not sure what all that means but seeing it in searches.

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[SteveB]

This is the part I am referring to in picture below. It is crumbling appart. I may try and salvage ones at junkyard (they have a bunch of tahoes and yukons of this bodytype). Otherwise is 80$ each.

Curious what is a good DA sander to get? They make a lot of them and some are super cheap. I am hearing short throw (smaller pad?) Palm da sander. Not sure what all that means but seeing it in searches.

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Yeah if the moulding is that brittle get new ones , its just 2 sided tape holding it there.
I use a finishing palm sander , I haven't used a da sander in years. Sander are like paint guns , good ones aren't cheaper. Palm sanders are smaller and easier to keep fairly flat when sanding. Da sanders are dual action sanders , meaning it can be switched between sanding and used a grinder. Most pads are 6" round. If I remember right my sander is a pro-tech. I like it , been using it for 13 yrs now. We have both kinds of sanders at work , if I remember I'll take a pic of each so you can see the difference. I think I paid something like 350.00 for my sander.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I am getting there. Switched to 340 and 220 gritt. Way easier lol

I am worried though about sanding to metal if not careful, there are a couple agressive lips I cannot seem to quite get out. Where the clearcoat was especially bad. I am assuming this is what high build primer helps with?

I also ordered some 3m sanding scotch bright pad things. To help get the edges of the panel.

I think I am getting close. But now I need to tend to a few spots with bear metal. I will go to paint store and buy the sealer and high build primer.

Curious for chips and nicks, should I get some putty / filler? I have 2 or 3 spots that are chipped and not sanding out. Some are to metals other just through clear.

I also need to order one of these pressure regulator deals for the compressor line into the gun. The one the guy gave me with gun is no good. Any old one off amazon suffice?

Thanks again, curious where are you located?

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[SteveB]

You could just prime those clear coat edges and the line from the fender flare with a high build primer , Put 3 coats on that. Yes etch prime all bare metal. I'm not aware of any spray bomb spray primer that is direct to metal. On the roof rail that looked like the seam sealer the factory applies to seal the joint was what you stated to remove. Do not use rtv on it paint wont stick to it. Get seam sealer. Did you get red scotch brite. If so just use the scotch brite pad for the edges and gas door area. To get the contour areas easier take a scotch brite pad , fold it in half then wrap the sand paper around it. Yes any regulator will work. Coming along nicely. I'm up in Canada.

 

[SteveB]

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/the-khan-2005-yukon-slt-buiild.112880/
Link to my build thread can see what it looked like when I bought it , to where I have got it to up till today.

 

[SteveB]

No real need for sealer. Sealer is mostly used to help paint cover faster. Remember to try have where you are painting as clean as possible , black will show dust very easy.