Parking brake issues with 2010 Yukon XL 2500 - are there different parking brake systems?

[Doubeleive]

the parking brake caliper or whatever you want to call it is the adjustable part, when you spin the adjuster it pushes the parking brake pads outward, they can be adjusted quit a bit. that may take up your slack in the cable

 

[calsdad]

the parking brake caliper or whatever you want to call it is the adjustable part, when you spin the adjuster it pushes the parking brake pads outward, they can be adjusted quit a bit. that may take up your slack in the cable

I realize that. And it was already adjusted outward per the instructions - as far as it would go and still be able to get the rotor on over the parking brake pads.

And yet there's still a good 2" of slack in the cable. My problem seemed to just "happen" - as the parking brake had been working fine the last time I went to use it.

Adjusting the adjuster - isn't going to remove something like 2" of slack from the parking brake cable

 

[Doubeleive]

I realize that. And it was already adjusted outward per the instructions - as far as it would go and still be able to get the rotor on over the parking brake pads.

And yet there's still a good 2" of slack in the cable. My problem seemed to just "happen" - as the parking brake had been working fine the last time I went to use it.

Adjusting the adjuster - isn't going to remove something like 2" of slack from the parking brake cable

So cut the bastard cable and clamp it with something like one of these

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or a few of these in series, it wont come loose

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[swathdiver]

I discovered my new-to-me 2500 Suburban has what appears to be a stretched out parking cable. The "intermediate" (i guess?) that runs down the outside of the frame on the drivers side sags when it's not engaged, and when the pedal is pressed down it just takes the slack out without ever engaging the parking brake.

It doesn't appear to be adjustable anywhere, which is kind of dumb.

Wondering if you ever got your issue fixed.

The slack needs to be taken up by the actuator. GM labor rate is .9 hours to fix this for you guys. Wes had them do his a couple years ago.

 

[TrybalRage]

The slack needs to be taken up by the actuator. GM labor rate is .9 hours to fix this for you guys. Wes had them do his a couple years ago.

When you say actuator, do you mean at the pedal? I've been looking at that and I don't see how any slack is taken up there. It's a simple end of a cable with a stop at the end.

Just to be clear, this is for a 2500 with a push-to-release style brake; from what I understand there were some variations on the parking brake style with different model years and trucks.

Edit: I found a video you shared on a different thread, and my pedal assembly does not look the same. I think I need to do some youtube searching to see if I can find one similar.

 

[swathdiver]

When you say actuator, do you mean at the pedal? I've been looking at that and I don't see how any slack is taken up there. It's a simple end of a cable with a stop at the end.

Just to be clear, this is for a 2500 with a push-to-release style brake; from what I understand there were some variations on the parking brake style with different model years and trucks.

Edit: I found a video you shared on a different thread, and my pedal assembly does not look the same. I think I need to do some youtube searching to see if I can find one similar.

Yes. Correct, there are two styles and both function the same. Before any work is done on the system, anywhere, the actuator must be disabled first according to the shop manual. Mine has been giving me fits for years too. Going to replace the actuator and all cables when I do the axle swap next year.

 

[George B]

This is how you are supposed to deal with the pedal mechanism before doing service. I have personally not done this as I have not had to replace cables on either of my trucks but I have serviced the rear park brake shoes on both and both hold the truck on an incline. Not sure how you have cables that are way too long now unless they are stretched too far. maybe the retractor is not working properly?

 

[TrybalRage]

This is how you are supposed to deal with the pedal mechanism before doing service. I have personally not done this as I have not had to replace cables on either of my trucks but I have serviced the rear park brake shoes on both and both hold the truck on an incline. Not sure how you have cables that are way too long now unless they are stretched too far. maybe the retractor is not working properly?

That's the same video that swathdiver shared in a different thread. My pedal mechanism does not look like that. My cable comes straight up and does not wrap around the ratcheting portion of the pedal.

 

[Fless]

So cut the bastard cable and clamp it with something like one of these

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or a few of these in series, it wont come loose

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Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Wire Rope Cable Clamp Clip Silver Tone 5mm Inner Width 5pcs at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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That first one shown is called a 3-bolt strand clamp, used for attaching various sizes of steel strand to communication pole bolts. Telephone and cable television hardware. Creative. I have a blue lineman's wrench in my toolbox that fits those square nuts.

 

[Doubeleive]

That first one shown is called a 3-bolt strand clamp, used for attaching various sizes of steel strand to communication pole bolts. Telephone and cable television hardware. Creative. I have a blue lineman's wrench in my toolbox that fits those square nuts.

View attachment 354411

I have seen some clamps like that holding high tension cable, if you cut it and clamped it with 3 or 4 of those D clamps it would hold it too, just need to figure out a location and get some bolt cutters