Parking Brake No Resistance

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Scottydoggs

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Scott, I understand completely. I have been in them many many many times myself. I had a 1973 Blazer that I used for off roading out here in the PNW and I had a full float 14 bolt at the rear with a Dana 60 up front. Could not break them before I broke anything attached to them.

i wore out the locker in my 03 pick up around 100k. had 410 gears in that as well. other then that, never had a diff issue. and i beat that truck pretty good. snow plowed with it and used it as a work truck that got 3,000 miles a month put on it.
 

new2yukon

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I had the same problem till I had the park brake shoes replaced and they adjusted the adjuster wheel and then made adjustments as they headed to the pedal in the cab. My pedal goes about 2/3 down and holds great.

This was all before I got my tools and the guy that did the work said it was a PITA!
Iinteresting. I put on new shoes and didn't know I could adjust at the cab. I will check into that sometime.
 

swathdiver

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The parking brake design on these is a joke, let's be honest. You can adjust on the braking mechanism and trial and error and also under the car on the driver side before the rear wheel. Often the easy adjustment is already maxed out and you have to go into the drum to adjust and even then it's not great. I FINALLY got mine working well enough to hold the truck... barely.

With the proper tools it's not too bad. You need a brake drum caliper to measure the internal diameter of the drum and then measure the shoes and adjust them so they are a little over 1/64th of an inch smaller than the drum, very precise, not much room. Before doing that, you're supposed to disable the parking brake actuator and then enable and adjust it afterwards. How long are we to expect those cables to last before repair? 10 years? 15 years?
 

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