Passenger front door problems

[DwaneM]

I've had a 2011 GMC Yukon XL Denali for a year. Recently started having some passenger front door issues. Started with the radio cutting in and out when the door was opened. Now the passenger side running board won't retract when the door is closed and the power lock for the door quit. I pulled the door card and can't see anything that is obvious. With the electronic issues I'm leaning towards a wiring problem. Any one else have any similar issues and what did you find?

 

[petethepug]

You’ve got to start with a clean slate when it comes to electrical gremlins.

1st: replace both -\+ battery cables. They rot from inside out. Internal resistance causes phantom DTC to appear on the 5v can/bus network. On the exterior they’ll look great, change em anyway!

2nd: Undo, inspect and verify the fuse block under the hood. Is it a corroded mess underneath? Torque the fuse pad back down and see what occurs. From there, clear and pull new codes. Go to auto parts store if you don’t have a code reader.

Running boards: Grab a can of rust penetrating lube. Spray the living kapock out of the hinges underneath. No worky still? Do it again in 48 hours. If that works follow up with a can of silicone lube. Silicone doesn’t attract dust & moisture like the rust penetrating lube does and will displace the petroleum product.

 

[mikez71]

None of the wiring for the running boards go through the door..
Perhaps the issue with the door lock on that side, also stops the running board from retracting?

Does seem like a wiring issue if you notice the radio cutting in/out as you open/close the door.
Did you check the door hinge wiring?

 

[DwaneM]

You’ve got to start with a clean slate when it comes to electrical gremlins.

1st: replace both -\+ battery cables. They rot from inside out. Internal resistance causes phantom DTC to appear on the 5v can/bus network. On the exterior they’ll look great, change em anyway!

2nd: Undo, inspect and verify the fuse block under the hood. Is it a corroded mess underneath? Torque the fuse pad back down and see what occurs. From there, clear and pull new codes. Go to auto parts store if you don’t have a code reader.

Running boards: Grab a can of rust penetrating lube. Spray the living kapock out of the hinges underneath. No worky still? Do it again in 48 hours. If that works follow up with a can of silicone lube. Silicone doesn’t attract dust & moisture like the rust penetrating lube does and will displace the petroleum product.

I'll begin that process tomorrow with the running boards. They do retract if I deactivate the system and start to drive. After more pondering on the issue. I'm going to replace the latch as it is a self contained unit with the power lock attached. I wonder if the sensor is in there too.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

There is a possibility that the wire bundle going from the door to the truck's body has one or more broken wires in it, probably caused by opening and closing the door over the years. This is not an uncommon issue with these trucks.

 

[DwaneM]

 

[DwaneM]

The door harness for the win. Already replaced. Thought I'd give an update..

 

[Fless]

@Joseph Garcia scores!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

The door harness for the win. Already replaced. Thought I'd give an update..

I'm glad that we were abie to assist you in finding the source of your issue.

Please add the word "FIXED" or "SOLVED" to your thread's title, to let others who are experiencing a similar issue know that this thread has an identified solution.

 

[petethepug]

That’s one crispy harness. I’d say repair it PepBoy’s style and get the ultimate fix out of the tool box …



There’s one for every color of wire and if you’re careful you can even paint the white stripes on the wires.