Pictures of dropping a four door fuel tank.

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oldsalt

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Is 4 door different than 2 door? I can walk you through it but I have only ever owned 2 door.
 
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SunlitComet

SunlitComet

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I don't know I was thinking the 2dr put there tank in the back of the frame instead of on the side. I am trying to supplement my tech data as to what to expect as removal takes place for a spring pack change out I hope. By seeing the pictures I develop a virtual video of sorts in my head to visualize the process. It may sound weird but it's what I do.
 

oldsalt

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Not weird at all. I do the same thing.
Yes the 2 door has the gas tank just under the rear section. I guess that's where the 4 door has the spare tire.

BTW - did complete brake job today. Hawks, powerslots, shoes, new calipers and cylinders, master and SS lines. Pedal is a bit spongy so I'll re bleed tomorrow. Hope I got the pads seated in properly.
 

BluHoe96

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Don't have any pics, but I cam describe it a bit. I did it without taking off the driveshaft, but after dropping and reinstalling the tank it definitely would have made it a heck of a lot easier since I had almost half a tank of gas in the tank (I know ba idea.)

1. Unstrap tank

2. Work the tank towards the back of
the truck to unrest it from the TB crossmember. Then work it towards the center of the truck towards the driveshaft. For me it slid out that way.

3. As your SLOWLY bringing down the tank (I used a jack) you will see the fuel lines and the harness for the pump. I disconnected these while the tank was supported by the jack.

4. Now u can finally lower the tank and remove it from under the vehicle. Hope this helps a little with visualizing it in your head. I know I feel more comfortable working when I have a full understanding of how the job will go. Good luck!
 
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SunlitComet

SunlitComet

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Not weird at all. I do the same thing.
Yes the 2 door has the gas tank just under the rear section. I guess that's where the 4 door has the spare tire.

BTW - did complete brake job today. Hawks, powerslots, shoes, new calipers and cylinders, master and SS lines. Pedal is a bit spongy so I'll re bleed tomorrow. Hope I got the pads seated in properly.


From tire rack:

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT

Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
 
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SunlitComet

SunlitComet

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Is it possible to just shift the tank sideway enough to get the leaf bolt out and back in quickly without bending or stretching fuel or electrical lines?
 

BluHoe96

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I think so, as long as you have something under the tank to support it like a jack or something you can just wedge it over by hand. That shouldn't be a problem at all.
 

quietfly

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i just did this today, not hard but not really fun at all. i'lll try to get some pictures up on monday while i'm putting it all back together...
 

longstand

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I remove my gas tank from my 1999 Yukon Denali to replace fuel Pump. Its under the Driver Side.

There is two Metal Strap holding it. thats all.. be carefull not to FULL it down without removing all the HOSE . it will snap something, I DID.
 

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