Possible low engine oil pressure

[steiny93]

Do you know how much can you expect the pressure to rise with the 2 quarts test? If it doesn't rise much, I think that would point me to the pump if anything.

Just trying to think through it all. If I'm already down there just replacing the o-ring with all the work dropping the front diff, might aswell do HV pump, pressure relief, timing chain, etc.

The 2qt test with the back of the vehicle raised is supposed to test for a bad O-ring (not a bad pump). If the O-ring was the only issue, I'd expect the psi rise to get it back into normal operating (so maybe a 15-20psi raise).

Personally, I wouldn't drop the pan, I'd do everything from the front, an easy 3hrs and you'll be finished.

 

[rdezs]

.... Although that doesn't let you replace or plug the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan.

 

[thefrey]

I would assume I would want to address or plug the pressure relief at some point.

Do you need to drop the front diff to address oil cooler lines? I haven't looked into it much but I saw somewhere you do - I have a slight oil leak from my oil cooler lines

 

[steiny93]

.... Although that doesn't let you replace or plug the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan.

correct, but... since you have to take the timing cover off to swap the oil pump. If you start with the work (o-ring/pump) from the front first, zero rework if you later need to go into the pan for the relief valve.

 

[rdezs]

You can get away with lowering it a bit, although I prefer to go ahead and drop it. It's not that bad, basically three bolts, CV axle bolts, and one vent tube.

I got away from the OEM oil cooler lines that are problematic, on a 6.0 I have in a Hummer.



Well I went with an external oil cooler, basically to get away from the risk of the one in the radiator leaking..... You can buy 10AN fittings that screw in at the OEM location. You'll never have to deal with the rubber sections of the OEM hoses that always start to leak.

 

[thefrey]

You can get away with lowering it a bit, although I prefer to go ahead and drop it. It's not that bad, basically three bolts, CV axle bolts, and one vent tube.

I got away from the OEM oil cooler lines that are problematic, on a 6.0 I have in a Hummer.

View attachment 450893

Well I went with an external oil cooler, basically to get away from the risk of the one in the radiator leaking..... You can buy 10AN fittings that screw in at the OEM location. You'll never have to deal with the rubber sections of the OEM hoses that always start to leak.

That upgrade looks clean. What hoses/fittings did you use? Did you use a kit? Might use the derale adapter and use the steel hose to the OEM cooler.

 

[rdezs]

It's a Derale oil cooler block that replaces the OEM to the oil pan. Put together my own stainless steel braided lines with the fittings, all of it was the Evil Energy brand.

Derale

Radiator fitting

 

[rdezs]

Here's the correct link for the fittings for the radiator

EVIL ENERGY 10AN Male Flare to M20 x 1.5mm Male Metric Fitting Adapter Aluminium Alloy 2PCS https://a.co/d/bT72w66

 

[thefrey]

Here's the correct link for the fittings for the radiator

EVIL ENERGY 10AN Male Flare to M20 x 1.5mm Male Metric Fitting Adapter Aluminium Alloy 2PCS https://a.co/d/bT72w66

Sweet. Thank you for the info