Power steering issue help

[Chubbs]

I expect that as above, the power steering gearbox needs replacing, but I would hate to go to that trouble and have it be something else.

The only way to properly 100% diagnose the GM pump or gear as either good or faulty is with special tool J44721 power steering system analyzer, which walks you through all of the below. Copy/paste didn't translate well but you get the idea.

Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

1. This step tests the system for restrictions.

1. This step tests the following components for the following conditions:

• The pump for internal leaks
  
  
• The power steering pipes for kinks

1. This step tests the ability of the pump to regulate flow at maximum pressure.

1. This step tests the ability of the pump to regulate flow under normal operating conditions.

1. This step tests the internal components of the pump and the gear.

This is an apparatus with a control valve that tests the operation of the pump at various temps and RPMs. If all tests are passed and then pressure drops when you turn the steering wheel, diagnosis is leakage across the piston or bypassing valve circuit within the actual steering gear.
Henceforth, one cannot testify or suggest as to which component needs replacing in your particular application. The steps also call for inspecting hoses/fittings, flow control valve, etc in the event something inconspicuous or in addition-to the gear or pump is at fault.

 

[TexasLou]

I went ahead and replaced the gear box with a cardone rebuild. It now works properly. For some reason, the pitman arm would not slide all the way up the splines like the original. There is maybe a 1/8 inch space between the leading side of the pitman arm socket and the rubber boot on the gear box where there hadn't been any gap originally. I can only assume that the spline taper is slightly different on this rebuild. The cardone unit to the naked eye looks like an exact match. I don't think this will pose any sort of issue. I torqued the living hell out of the nut trying to force it up the splines, but it simply would go no further (it is probably 90% of the way on). I then backed off the nut and torqued it properly. There is no way in hell that thing is sliding off. And, yes, I am quite sure the splines are in the correct alignment. There are 4 indexing spots on the splines, so you can't be off on the splines without being a full 90 degrees off (I assume you could put it on 90 degrees off but didn't try, so it is possible that the indexing spots are not all the same and maybe you can't). The steering wheel is lined up straight and center when the car goes straight which would also confirm a proper alignment.

 

[Chubbs]

The original gear failed? I hope you still have it and didn't chunk it. Have you thought about digging into it 1-day to see how it works and if you can find any origin of failure? You can check the output with a torque wrench to determine if the preload is off. There are a couple of other items that may be obvious when working through the diagnostics of a failed gear. I would try to rebuild it if not for a cheap kit of seals. I've done it before. Post it for sale or whatever

 

[Matahoe]

The only way to properly 100% diagnose the GM pump or gear as either good or faulty is with special tool J44721...

It's about a $400 tool. Could be useful and pay itself off when used for a shop. I wouldn't have the patience to hook one up.

I would have the pump replaced by then. There are adapters to bypass the gear. Also a simple hydraulic pressure gauge from Tractor Supply Co. would perform most of the needed checks.

 

[Chubbs]

@Matahoe

You the man, appreciate your time.

Are you in the auto repair trade?

 

[TexasLou]

The original gear failed? I hope you still have it and didn't chunk it. Have you thought about digging into it 1-day to see how it works and if you can find any origin of failure? You can check the output with a torque wrench to determine if the preload is off. There are a couple of other items that may be obvious when working through the diagnostics of a failed gear. I would try to rebuild it if not for a cheap kit of seals. I've done it before. Post it for sale or whatever

Sorry, but it had a $200 core charge on it. So I took the $200.