Preventative Maintenance 213k Miles

[NoClue97]

Hey guys, I just got a 2002 Suburban LT with 213,000 miles. My 2002 Escalade has had issues since I got it and has now been parked with this cheaper Suburban as the part time replacement. Looking around these forums there doesn’t seem to be much that is scaring people with these trucks unlike the later DOD/AFM or my usual Euro cars.

Looking for any recommendations as to preventative maintenance that is recommended before I place an order for parts. So far, I have rear cargo door struts, air filter, cabin filter, oil change, fuel filter, accessory belt, AC belt, PCV with hose, valve cover gaskets, and rear differential gasket. Anything else recommended as far as preventative maintenance or upgrades that will increase reliability? I know there’s not much to these trucks and that is part of why I like them. The autoride has been swapped out by the previous owner for some 2500 or 3500 parts I believe.

Any input would be appreciated, thanks. I will also be getting a Carfax since the mileage is only stored on the odometer and no where else and my Escalade was advertised as 178,000 miles but had it rolled back by I believe 30,000 miles right at the 10 year mark since that is when it “doesn’t matter” in PA or maybe federally? they can be listed as exempt on the titling odometer disclosure and here in PA we have yearly state inspection and emissions so the rollback was very easy to see on the Carfax.

 

[MassHoe04]

If you have rear heat, get new "T" fittings for the heater hose connections. The plastic can simply give out with no warning.

This just happened to me Friday...

I am just over 200k on my 04 Z71. Just driving cross-town, the nipple that one of my heater hoses connects to simply snapped off while driving. Connection broke off clean...


They are $20 parts and not very difficult to replace. I had this happen just as I pulled into the parking lot of my barber shop. I did the repair in the parking lot with basic tools and was back on the road.

I had no advance tell-tale signs of failure. It just broke and my water pump was pumping coolant out at full force.
I was lucky I was 5 miles from home, was able to have tools brought over to me and the nearest NAPA was still open and only 1 mile down the street.
Had this happened on the highway, out of town, I could have had a much bigger ordeal.

Replace them before that happens!

GM original is best.
My best option was the NAPA Solutions part, which was in stock and only $20.
I don't expect it to last forever, but I think it will last as long as I own this Tahoe.

 

[NoClue97]

Excellent info, thanks. It's good you were able to fix it quick and easy with no tow truck!! I will add that to the list. Should I also do the plastic connectors that are on the lower radiator hose on the passenger side?
Any thoughts on a rear AC delete/ block off? My front AC is currently working fairly well, mostly thinking as a preventive measure since most of the leaks seem to be related to the rear? And I want to remove all the stuff in the resr side compartment for more room/ storage.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Excellent info, thanks. It's good you were able to fix it quick and easy with no tow truck!! I will add that to the list. Should I also do the plastic connectors that are on the lower radiator hose on the passenger side?
Any thoughts on a rear AC delete/ block off? My front AC is currently working fairly well, mostly thinking as a preventive measure since most of the leaks seem to be related to the rear? And I want to remove all the stuff in the resr side compartment for more room/ storage.

If you are not sure of the manufacture dates of all the rubber hoses connected to the cooling system (many have the month/year of manufacture stamped on them), replace ALL of them, as they age and deteriorate.

 

[MassHoe04]

Excellent info, thanks. It's good you were able to fix it quick and easy with no tow truck!! I will add that to the list. Should I also do the plastic connectors that are on the lower radiator hose on the passenger side?
Any thoughts on a rear AC delete/ block off? My front AC is currently working fairly well, mostly thinking as a preventive measure since most of the leaks seem to be related to the rear? And I want to remove all the stuff in the resr side compartment for more room/ storage.

You could delete all that, but after having it... I really like having rear heat and AC. Evens out the temps front and rear. Who knows, it might not ever leak on you... If ti were me, I'd keep it going. If rear AC died, then I'd look at it again. In the meantime, I would run it as-s and enjoy the perks of added heat and cool air in the cabin. If more storage is your priority, go for it. It is yours to do as you like anyway... There is no wrong choice there.

 

[Doubeleive]

Hey guys, I just got a 2002 Suburban LT with 213,000 miles. My 2002 Escalade has had issues since I got it and has now been parked with this cheaper Suburban as the part time replacement. Looking around these forums there doesn’t seem to be much that is scaring people with these trucks unlike the later DOD/AFM or my usual Euro cars.

Looking for any recommendations as to preventative maintenance that is recommended before I place an order for parts. So far, I have rear cargo door struts, air filter, cabin filter, oil change, fuel filter, accessory belt, AC belt, PCV with hose, valve cover gaskets, and rear differential gasket. Anything else recommended as far as preventative maintenance or upgrades that will increase reliability? I know there’s not much to these trucks and that is part of why I like them. The autoride has been swapped out by the previous owner for some 2500 or 3500 parts I believe.

Any input would be appreciated, thanks. I will also be getting a Carfax since the mileage is only stored on the odometer and no where else and my Escalade was advertised as 178,000 miles but had it rolled back by I believe 30,000 miles right at the 10 year mark since that is when it “doesn’t matter” in PA or maybe federally? they can be listed as exempt on the titling odometer disclosure and here in PA we have yearly state inspection and emissions so the rollback was very easy to see on the Carfax.

it really depends on what has already been done previously at 200k+ it's a sure bet many things have already been done you may be replacing things that do not need to be replaced, I would get a flashlight and look all over and try to make a determination. basically check everything, all fluids are a given unless they look clean and clear. the carfax may give you a heads up. Generally at about 160k things start to go south so if there are no codes stored and it drives good you may not need to do a lot.
pull a couple spark plugs and see what they look like as well.

 

[NoClue97]

If you are not sure of the manufacture dates of all the rubber hoses connected to the cooling system (many have the month/year of manufacture stamped on them), replace ALL of them, as they age and deteriorate.

I will add them to the list. Is Dexcool the go to then? I am used to buying genuine BMW and Merc coolant at $25/ gallon, so it doesn't bother me too much. Unless the normal green will work since I can find it at Ace on sale for like $6/ gallon?

Who knows, it might not ever leak on you

This is also very true!!

it's a sure bet many things have already been done you may be replacing things that do not need to be replaced

This is one of the advantages to higher milage vehicles that are in solid condition! I forgot the alternator and belts were done until the other night I did the engine air filter and saw the brand-new markings on the belt! I have since removed them form the list lol.

 

[treehan77]

If you’re doing the belts, you might think about doing the idler pulley for the AC too