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SunlitComet

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No No No. since one axle shaft seal is leaking you have to unlock the shaft from withing the differential to pull the shaft out to replace the since you have one do the other side just in case. It can be frustrating to do one and a short time later they other starts leaking. this is just the out drive-shaft tube seal that is probably the issue. But with the shaft out look at the machined surface that the seal rides around and make it is flat and smooth all the the way around. As far as the brakes are concerned if you have even on brake shoes that has oil contamination like oily/ grease stains the feeling of rubbing your fingers over feel different then the other areas of shoe. Of course everyone should you reline brakes in axle set so both left and right rears or left and right fronts. Never do one wheel just by itself. That is why there are four shoes in each brake set. Two linings for each side. If you think you want to change your gearing it should be discussed more as to what you have, want you are looking for and how to reach the goal. Here are typical instruction on pulling the shaft out.


BTW, when doing the work verify you axles vent tube is not obstructed. if it was the heat build up inside when driving would create pressure that would piss fluid out of your seal. Also check your bearing at the end of the tubes. Hopefully the seals are just worn from age and use.

---------- Post added at 07:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 AM ----------


8.6, 9.5 Inch Axle Rear Axle Shaft Replacement

Removal Procedure


  1. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
  2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  3. Remove the brake drums.
  4. Remove the rear axle housing cover and the gasket.

101721820





  1. Remove the pinion shaft locking bolt.

101721821





  1. On axles without a locking differential, remove the pinion shaft.

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  1. On axles with a locking differential, remove the shaft part way. Rotate the case until the pinion shaft touches the housing.

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  1. On axles with a locking differential, use a screwdriver, or a similar tool, in order to enter the differential case and rotate the lock (1) until the lock aligns with the thrust block (2).

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  1. Push the flange of the axle shaft (1) toward the differential.
  2. Remove the C-lock (4) from the button end of the axle shaft (1). Important: When removing the axle shaft, do not rotate the shaft. Rotating the shaft will misalign the gears. Misaligning the gears will make the assembly difficult.
  3. Remove the axle shaft (1) from the housing (5).
  4. Inspect all the parts for damage. Replace the parts as necessary.
Installation Procedure

Important: Carefully insert the axle shaft in order to not damage the seal.


101721825





  1. Install the axle shaft (1) into the rear axle housing (5).
  2. Slide the axle shaft (1) into place allowing the splines to engage the differential side gear.
  3. On axles without a locking differential, place the lock (4) on the button end of the axle shaft (1).
  4. On axles with a locking differential, keep the pinion shaft partially withdrawn.

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  1. On axles with a locking differential, place the C-lock (1) on the axle shaft (3) so that the ends are flush with the thrust block (2).
  2. Pull the shaft flange outward in order to seat the lock in the differential gear.

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  1. Align the hole in the pinion shaft with the bolt hole in the differential case. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
  2. Install the new pinion shaft locking bolt.

    • Tighten the pinion shaft locking bolt to 36 Nm (27 lb ft) (8.6 inch axle).
    • Tighten the pinion shaft locking bolt to 50 Nm (37 lb ft) (9.5 inch axle).

  1. Install the rear cover and the gasket.
  2. Install the brake drums.
  3. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  4. Fill the rear axle. Use the proper fluid.
  5. Lower the vehicle.
 
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XxBIGxTEXxX

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ok ill probably just have someone do this... hahaha since i dont have much time and trying to get out of town for the weekend... ill go get one side done and then ill do the other on my own. unless is not that much more for both but thanks.. will get back to u soon on the situation.
 

SunlitComet

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It adds about 30-45 minutes to the job to do both if properly equipped in tools. Doing one would take a shop tech with the right tool 1 hr 2 tops. It is not complicated.
 

bowtiefreak

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Jonathan comes through again with all the details! Who the hells needs a manual with guys like this around. As always, nice job.
 

retorq

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Was it causing your the drum to heat up? and also, how hard was it to do or did you have someone do it for u? And was your leak just around the rim and splattered around the top of the tire?

No if your drum is heating up something in there is dragging ...

I did mine myself, it's not that hard. This is the third time I've been inside that rear end. LOL
 
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XxBIGxTEXxX

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Ok so im back.. I was going to do it this morning and i called the guy ad he was like. why dont u just check the seal and if its popped out then just get some silicon and ull be fine. so i did and it got worse. i should have gone and just done everything.. now the question is, theirs 2 axles here in houston where i can go pick them up right now since almost everywhere else they have to order it and it takes like 5 days to get here and need to do this tomorrow.. What is the exact bearings on this hoe? 2.5 or 2.8?

heres the site:http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...ar=1999&make=Chevrolet&model=Tahoe&vi=1353721

---------- Post added at 07:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:15 PM ----------

And yea he is doing a great job.. No need for a manual here...
 
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XxBIGxTEXxX

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Well i am going to pull it all out tmorrow.. the seal popped out after i put silicon. the drum keeps over heating because of the gear lube that gets in there through the seal. i think the axle is bent cause of the heat so its causing me to have a bumpy ride... now can u send those pics again on how to do it? and is their an acdelco of those axles?
 

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