Problem was not fixed..

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
X

XxBIGxTEXxX

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2010
Posts
249
Reaction score
0
Ok now come to find out that the axle has just a little bit of roughness or like a small bump. Now i pull the old bearings out and they look bad. so one i put the new one in to test if it was the right one, i had to tap it in slowly till it went in.. then i pulled it out and added a bit of pressure and came right out. is that normal that the new bearings should slide out easily or once its in then its hard and tough to come out? if im mistaken, it should just slide out easy with just a bit of pressure added to it. and i called my neighbor and he said that the differential case is messed up and need a new one and that the axles were not the problem... what do yall think of this?
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
You replaced the bearing at the end of the tube where the brake is? and your friend something is wrong with the differential case?
 
OP
OP
X

XxBIGxTEXxX

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2010
Posts
249
Reaction score
0
Ok. So the truck is in my garage right now with out the axle in the right side. I pulled the axle out since my neighbor is a mechanic and i told him about the problem and he said that if the seal came back out then it was possible that the axle was bent or something. So i went and purchase both of them since yall said, "if you do one side, do the other one too because sometimes it causes the problem to shift over to the other side". Anyways, so i purchase both of them and this morning i got to work and pulled out the right rear axle. So after i pulled the gear oil out and to the cover off of the ball or pumpkin on the differential, it smelled burnt. So i put it in neutral and started to rotate the gears in their to see if anything was damage or anything was grinned off or chip. Everything thing seemed ok. SO i pulled that C ring and i pulled the axle out with the seal and bearings. I pulled out the new one and inspected it and everything looked the same. So i started rubbing my fingers over by the are where the bearings and seal is wrapped around the axle and compared it with the new one and the original one that was on the truck. The only different thing that i notice on mine was that it was smooth except at a spot, it felt a bit rough or like a line that was barely dipped round it. So i looked at the bearings and they felt the same and looked the same just that they did look worn. So i decided to slide the new bearings in to see if it was the right ones and i softly tapped it in and it fit. So when i pulled the bearings back out, i added a pit of force to pull it out. So i called the neighbor over the phone and talked to him what i have done and what he told me he thought the problem was, that to me it was like if on the new axle and the old one, it was exactly the same. And i told him about the bearings and that how they went in and they came back out. He told me that the bearings go in, they should come out that easily and of they were then the problem was in the differential casing it self and maybe that was the problem which was causing the pressure on the oil to get through and pop the seal out causing fluid to fly everywhere and making the drum cover HOT. So he said i needed to get the whole differential new. Once he said that, i started thinking, "Probably he dont know and maybe it could be something simple thats not worth more than 50 bucks and amd going around spending more than 500 bucks... So i went and returned everything and got my money back. SInce the manager at Advance Auto parts is a good friend of mine, i asked him what he thought the problem was. He told me, "GM vehicles of that model uses 2 gear olds that GM specifically recommends on their trucks. I dont know if only on trucks or also for SUVs because it shows me here that for that year and model, all u need is 75-90 or 80-90 full synthetic gear oil". WHen i heard that, it through me off because i replaced that differential main rear seal gasket and the only gear oil i added in their was 75-90 full synthetic. So i told him if it was true that the bearings shouldnt come off when pulled by hand with a bit of force? He said, "Well on that, it should be supper tight were no oil goes through but it should stay on their with out be loose where it wiggles because the oil needs to be able to go through the outside part of bearings a little bit". So thats when i got even more confused. He told me to go get the Vin number of my truck and look on a manuel exactly what kind of gear oil should be on that because GM recommended this gear oil that prevents friction inside of the differential case where the gears go.

Sorry for the book but im just getting so confused that i dont want to go out spending all this money when the problem is something minor that could be fix with less than 100 bucks.

What do yall think about all this and do yall have anything to add to this or what yall think it would be. I just want to get this done the right way. and if their is another gear oil or additive i should have added in there when i replaced that main gasket that i didnt add, then that could have cause the problem to that...

MAJOR HELP... Hope i havent got anyone mad or anything because i am ver thankful that we have people like SunLitComet that can take time off their personal time to help others... and everyone else that has been helping as well.
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
just use gl-5 80w-90 gear oil with no friction modifiers of any kind. It is the standard factory fill. Bearing may be stiff fitting or snug. Just be concerned that they sit flat against the tube before putting axleshaft back in. As long as the machined circumference on the axle is clean and no damage is apparent and they are not bent(you would know), I would have just put some new bearing and seals on and double check the vent line for obstructions. If axle-shaft was fine you should not have any leaks afterwards.

Also I'm mad as hell and i can't take it anymore, at least until you respond again and theeenn maybe not so mad.:)
 
OP
OP
X

XxBIGxTEXxX

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2010
Posts
249
Reaction score
0
Yea i know this is complicated for me and i do apologize if i am causing that our getting mad.

Yea thats what i am thinking about doing? Now could i use purple power gear oil? I hear everyone loves that and its really good. Keep in mind i do have a 4wd with the auto trac in it where i have the 4HI/4LO/AUTO/2HI. Would this be the same oil and everything else?

---------- Post added at 05:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:27 PM ----------

Ok. So the truck is in my garage right now with out the axle in the right side. I pulled the axle out since my neighbor is a mechanic and i told him about the problem and he said that if the seal came back out then it was possible that the axle was bent or something. So i went and purchase both of them since yall said, "if you do one side, do the other one too because sometimes it causes the problem to shift over to the other side". Anyways, so i purchase both of them and this morning i got to work and pulled out the right rear axle. So after i pulled the gear oil out and to the cover off of the ball or pumpkin on the differential, it smelled burnt. So i put it in neutral and started to rotate the gears in their to see if anything was damage or anything was grinned off or chip. Everything thing seemed ok. SO i pulled that C ring and i pulled the axle out with the seal and bearings. I pulled out the new one and inspected it and everything looked the same. So i started rubbing my fingers over by the are where the bearings and seal is wrapped around the axle and compared it with the new one and the original one that was on the truck. The only different thing that i notice on mine was that it was smooth except at a spot, it felt a bit rough or like a line that was barely dipped round it. So i looked at the bearings and they felt the same and looked the same just that they did look worn. So i decided to slide the new bearings in to see if it was the right ones and i softly tapped it in and it fit. So when i pulled the bearings back out, i added a pit of force to pull it out. So i called the neighbor over the phone and talked to him what i have done and what he told me he thought the problem was, that to me it was like if on the new axle and the old one, it was exactly the same. And i told him about the bearings and that how they went in and they came back out. He told me that the bearings go in, they should come out that easily and of they were then the problem was in the differential casing it self and maybe that was the problem which was causing the pressure on the oil to get through and pop the seal out causing fluid to fly everywhere and making the drum cover HOT. So he said i needed to get the whole differential new. Once he said that, i started thinking, "Probably he dont know and maybe it could be something simple thats not worth more than 50 bucks and amd going around spending more than 500 bucks... So i went and returned everything and got my money back. SInce the manager at Advance Auto parts is a good friend of mine, i asked him what he thought the problem was. He told me, "GM vehicles of that model uses 2 gear olds that GM specifically recommends on their trucks. I dont know if only on trucks or also for SUVs because it shows me here that for that year and model, all u need is 75-90 or 80-90 full synthetic gear oil". WHen i heard that, it through me off because i replaced that differential main rear seal gasket and the only gear oil i added in their was 75-90 full synthetic. So i told him if it was true that the bearings shouldnt come off when pulled by hand with a bit of force? He said, "Well on that, it should be supper tight were no oil goes through but it should stay on their with out be loose where it wiggles because the oil needs to be able to go through the outside part of bearings a little bit". So thats when i got even more confused. He told me to go get the Vin number of my truck and look on a manuel exactly what kind of gear oil should be on that because GM recommended this gear oil that prevents friction inside of the differential case where the gears go.

Sorry for the book but im just getting so confused that i dont want to go out spending all this money when the problem is something minor that could be fix with less than 100 bucks.

What do yall think about all this and do yall have anything to add to this or what yall think it would be. I just want to get this done the right way. and if their is another gear oil or additive i should have added in there when i replaced that main gasket that i didnt add, then that could have cause the problem to that...

MAJOR HELP... Hope i havent got anyone mad or anything because i am ver thankful that we have people like SunLitComet that can take time off their personal time to help others... and everyone else that has been helping as well.

I forgot to mention, or maybe i did mention it but the bearing should be flux with no play around the housing case correct oil should slightly be able to flow in between the bearing and the housing case or not?
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
I was being sarcastic. I take you have never seen the movie "Network"? for the rear you could but it is not required just make sure it has the same specs. for the transfer case use autotrac2 which looks blue and for the front differential use synthetic 75w-90.
 
OP
OP
X

XxBIGxTEXxX

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2010
Posts
249
Reaction score
0
I actually have.. hahaha Would i have to add that autotrac2 if i go with royal purple stuff?
 
OP
OP
X

XxBIGxTEXxX

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2010
Posts
249
Reaction score
0
yea.. i think that for the transfer case, they just added regular trans oil...should i flush iy out? and im talking about having that royal purple added to differential gears.. Would that work good? and i would have to go on tuesday and get that autotrac 2 from the dealer unless i can find it any where else in any store since i have read around here that dealer would be the only place to get it...
Now, if reg trans oil was added into the t-case, and 75-90 regular gear oil, what could have been the mods of something being damaged after running it with that fluid with about a month?
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
Yes a courtesy:Plugged:would be in order. Royal purple is fine as long as it is certifed to the same specs as fluid needed. A month probably won't hurt but when you refill it run the truck a bit to make sure you diluted the old stuff as much as possible and change it again a month from now. Call yourself good.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
133,010
Posts
1,878,377
Members
97,959
Latest member
my2013

Latest posts

Top