Project Boost for atomichoe

[AtomicHoe094]

the LC-1 was actually in my list to look more upon and see more about it.
so Del, would this http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php work for me? or am i missing something? and if i already have a factory o2 sensor, i simply pull that one out and install one of these?
what do you mean Known vw sensor? if this one goes out i can just buy a o2 sensor for any VW?

 

[95TwinTT]

Yep, those gauges are great. I have been using the XD-16. They have the added LED’s that light up around the parameter of the face. You can program the colors of the leds to catch your attention at certain levels.

All of these products use the LC-1 to feed them. Including the hand held meters.

The Bosch O2 sensor that they use is sold at VW dealers.
Part number 021-906-262-B

The GM factory O2’s are not wide band, but put out the Lamda signal. You could use one of the two Analog channels of the LC-1 to replace that signal. They can be set up to feed either Lamda or wide band signals. They show the two tables in their video.

They have a ton of info at the Innovate website. You may find some of these floating around on the used market. The LC-1 itself has the plug on the end of the unit that fits the plug on the VW O2 sensor. Check out their picture and you can see the six pin connector. These LC-1’s are expected to be close to the sensor. The cable from the Bosch sensor is about three feet long. Both of my LC-1’s are mounted on top of my transmission. The seven or eight conductor cable that comes out the other end of the LC-1 is 10 -12 feet long.

These Innovate guys are serious, you can’t go wrong with their products………..

 

[AtomicHoe094]

good to know. The heat from the transmission doesn't effect the lc1 at all? how did you attach it per-say?

 

[95TwinTT]

The LC-1’s are built to be in unfriendly surroundings. The Tahoe just has the LC-1’s in the wiring harness over the tranny. The 4L80e does not work hard enough to get hot. lol

In the Camaro, the LC-1 is sort of close to the one header, so I have it inside of a heat shield sleeve. One of those aluminized cloth shields.

The Tahoe O2’s are at the bottom of the down tubes, so I used the extenders to keep them cooler so they last longer.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16148&cat=250&page=2

I also have LM-1 and LM-2 test kits, so I should be able to answer questions on these things if you go with them………

Sounds like a fun project……… I’m glad you are going to start spending money so we can get out of this recession………. We need all the stimulus we can get…..

 

[AtomicHoe094]

fun project? more of a money pit just like the fbody and foxbody.. lol cant get enough

i see you have Proform valve covers correct? i bought a pair of those the other day, what kind of oil cap do you have to use? lol theres no thread, so the stock one is out. i dont know what the hell to use. haha

Ill probably be on the look out then for one of those Blue DB lc1 kits. keep your eyes out for me

What kind of heads would you recommend? i was thinking some vortec heads, but if im going to go all out, anything come to your mind? not looking to spend an assload

 

[95TwinTT]

Yea, I know all about the money pit concept. Lol

I’m using the rubber grommets on the valve covers. The drivers side has one opening hooked to the PCV, and the passenger side has two oil breathers that just slide into the rubber grommets. One of those is the oil filler opening. There are a couple different sizes on the “slip in” oil breathers. They also come in chrome or black.

I’m kind of partial to Air Flow Research for heads. If your shopping for heads, you might want to focus more on chamber size to achieve the compression ratio you want. Other than that, shop by “flow ratings”. I don’t think the brand will make that much difference.

There are programs available to make figuring out the compression ratio easy. Do you know what your compression ratio is now?

Are you planning on running race gas, or premium?

 

[AtomicHoe094]

Ill give it to you straight del, im dumber then a box of rocks once it comes to internal motor stuff and compression and stuff like that. i can do everything on the outside and inside of a car, but once you go into an engine bay, im veryyyy limited. i can do bolts on and maintenance, but internal motor and trans stuff.. im gone!

plan on a weekend summer time cruiser, so pumpgas (94octane) is plenty for me.
Im just hoping to get this thing around 400hp or so. i know im going to need to do some motor work, and ill figure it out as i go.
so thats where im at. lol hopefully i can stick to my 350 for a while with cam and heads with this blower. but once it goes, maybe be looking into a 454 tbi or a 383... but that wont be for a whillllllee

 

[95TwinTT]

Come on Adam, you are doing some amazing things for being in that category.

What you can do is just go with the vortec heads. They will breath a lot better than your stock heads. If you end up having detonation issues, you can solve it easy with an alcohol injector. Changing over to a roller cam is just a matter of parts.

http://www.alkycontrol.com/

These guys make the best progressive system around.

You can easily hit 400 hp with the vortec heads and blower. Don’t buy the alky injector unless you need it, but just know that it is the solution for detonation.

I only have 92 octane in my area, so I need the alky injection to handle boost. It only comes on when the boost is over 5 pounds, so a gallon of Methanol last for a long time.

 

[grnrpr68]

sweet

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

this thread makes me want to order an assload of parts for the hoe. to bad putting it all together is over my head at the moment! haha

that orange hoe is going to be amazing when you get it all put together!