Question about swapping air ride in order to sell

[Biggredd2069]

I have an 04 Denali. I took it to a repair shop to confirm what issue I had with my air ride. Rear air bags are shot. I think I let my air compressor burn out as well. I'm trying to buy a newer year Suburban and want to put this for sale. In the interest of cost I'm thinking of putting passive shocks on. My question is since my compressor is blown if I put passive shocks on that have the bypass on them will I still get an error on my dash for the blown compressor? If so, will just pulling the fuse make that error go away?

 

[denalliworld]

I found this post on this forum

They only have auto damping in the front, no air. It's an electronic damping system that needs bypass resistors if auto damping shocks aren't used. Edit: that's if you keep your autoride system working in the rear with air shocks. Otherwise you can pull the fuses and disable the entire system.



what error message do you get on the dash?

 

[OHSIXX]

I have an 04 Denali. I took it to a repair shop to confirm what issue I had with my air ride. Rear air bags are shot. I think I let my air compressor burn out as well. I'm trying to buy a newer year Suburban and want to put this for sale. In the interest of cost I'm thinking of putting passive shocks on. My question is since my compressor is blown if I put passive shocks on that have the bypass on them will I still get an error on my dash for the blown compressor? If so, will just pulling the fuse make that error go away?

Arnott sells a complete kit to switch to a passive setup. Pulling the fuse will just make it drive worse(Real Time Dampening) You could also buy a set of rear shocks and compressor for under $600. If you are selling:

Buy replacements and fix yourself
Buy replacements and include in sale for new owner to fix
Make potential buyers aware of the issue and the cost to fix-deduct from price

Just dont try to cover up and be shady.........

 

[Biggredd2069]

Dash just says: service ride control

I do plan to disclose any update I do to a seller. Don't assume it would be otherwise. My explanation is simply its a weak link and feel the non air ride would be better. I have seen the arnotts. I guess I'm just confused what to buy. I don't want to use the air compressor and I don't want a code to read on the dash. So just trying to figure out what shocks I can put on and what change I need to do to clear up codes without replacing the air compressor. Ready to buy whatever today but don't feel comfortable buying since I'll do it online and its a pain to return. I don't mind keeping the auto dampening, just want to lose the air part. edit: I have a $300 budget. best I can find is around $450 for a new compressor and 2 shocks to put it back to stock which is why I'm looking for this alternative.

 

[Sasquatch]

After two compressors dying on me i decided to ditch the autoride and i put four billstein 5100 shocks in. You can make the message on the DIC go away by installing resistors, I bought the resistors but never put them in.

If i ever decide to sell my truck the new owner will have the option of easily returning it to autoride because i i didn`t cut up the wires. It`s just too easy to tap a button on the steering wheel to make the message go away for me.

 

[OHSIXX]

Dash just says: service ride control

I do plan to disclose any update I do to a seller. Don't assume it would be otherwise. My explanation is simply its a weak link and feel the non air ride would be better. I have seen the arnotts. I guess I'm just confused what to buy. I don't want to use the air compressor and I don't want a code to read on the dash. So just trying to figure out what shocks I can put on and what change I need to do to clear up codes without replacing the air compressor. Ready to buy whatever today but don't feel comfortable buying since I'll do it online and its a pain to return. I don't mind keeping the auto dampening, just want to lose the air part. edit: I have a $300 budget. best I can find is around $450 for a new compressor and 2 shocks to put it back to stock which is why I'm looking for this alternative.

@Biggredd2069


With the $300 budget I'd say leave it as is and just try to sell disclosing the issue. Arnott is a reputable company to work with. This option would eliminate the autoride and compressor but it is out of your budget.

https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_GMC_yid15_pid95_gid938.html

The autoride system works great when it doesnt break down. I personally have replaced the rear shocks and compressor(actually twice cuz the first one was defective) and replaced my fronts with their front shocks w resistors. I like the auto leveling as I tow.

 

[Rocket Man]

I don't believe you can keep the auto damping without the air ride (self leveling). At least not without the light coming on. You CAN keep the air ride without the auto damping though; I have done that to mine with the Arnott replacement system.I love it, great for towing or alot of passengers in my lowered Denali. When I bought mine, the system didn't work and the fuses were pulled, rear air bags had holes in them. There was no light on. You could just do that, with or without new regular rear shocks.

 

[Biggredd2069]

I ended up getting some remanufactured OEM shocks that have a core rebate for $309, $259 after rebate. And an E Bay compressor with dryer rebuild. I did so much research it wasn't that much more unless I completely went basic shocks and did a bunch of resistors to bypass warnings. I didn't really want to go that far so I think I should be all set and hopefully I can install them within a week or so before weather starts to turn. Thanks for the replies. I did find out that even if did passive shocks I still need a working air pump to bypass warnings or you end up having to do a ton of shady stuff under the hood and truck that just wasn't worth it. I'm all in for $393. I would say that's not too bad, considering I'll do the work myself. under $300 would've been nicer. I'll post once I swap just to give an update.

 

[OHSIXX]

Replacing the rears aren't too bad.....that top shock bolt is kind of pain cuz its hard to see. Changing the compressor can be done 2 ways...taking the whole assembly in its protective"box" off the frame rail or just removing the compressor. I did the latter. Its held on by 3 screws-they will break. I just drilled them out and used a little bigger self tappers when I put the new one back on.Its not too bad of a job. Good luck.

 

[denali01]

im in the same boat. Rear shocks are leaking. I have seen the arnott and monroe makes a direct replacement with the electronic dampening and auto level. identical to stock or with Z55 electronic suspension. They also make the passive shocks like the arnott units. Auto level with no dampening. Im just trying to decide if the auto dampening is worth keeping. Have read about alot of possible trouble with the system as the denali ages. Really relying on your guys opininon who have had the autoride and also have ditched the dampening. How do you explain the ride difference? Is it worth the extra money? I have to keep the leveling feature as i tow with mine. Thanks in advance