Questions about DynaMat install

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

bahollis

Lead Foot
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Posts
150
Reaction score
5
Location
TEXAS
I've stripped all the panels, pillars, seats, carpet & pad out of the back of my 04 tahoe. I'll have to decide if it's worth jacking with the front seats later on, but in the meantime I plan to do as much as I can in the rear of the vehicle.

My question for you guys that have done this is...

Do you put the dynamat down in place of the carpet pad, or does the pad go back on top of the dynamat before the carpet? My carpet pad is pretty much a perfect form fit to the metal, so I'm concerned that the dynamat will make it not fit right.

Also, is it a pain in the ass to move the Rear AC to get the dynamat under it?

Any input is appreciated

Bh
 

jomulk56

Resident Lurker
Joined
May 1, 2009
Posts
1,237
Reaction score
11
Location
IN
I would put the pad back down on top of the dynamat.
 

TnTahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Posts
788
Reaction score
2
Location
TN
yes it is a pain to move the rear ac, in order to move it out of the way you would have to disconnect the water lines and refrigerant lines from under the vehicle, but you may be able to just remove a few of the plastic pieces and just get some mat in a few places
 
OP
OP
bahollis

bahollis

Lead Foot
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Posts
150
Reaction score
5
Location
TEXAS
I'll cut small strips and install them a tiny bit at a time around the rear AC if I have to. I might even see if it's possible to undo the top screws into the quarter panel and lean it out away from the panel to get behind it.

I've got serious cabin drone from my Magnaflow exhaust at 75mph, and I have to do something or my wife is going to strangle me. And of course, the exhaust exit is on that side.

I'm starting the install for the rear section tonight, so we'll see how it goes. If this does not contain the drone I'll have to get a resonator put in. Does anyone know if this drone is because my 4 Speed has no overdrive? It's mostly loud at 75mph+, but Tollways here are 70mph, and 75 will get you run over.
 
OP
OP
bahollis

bahollis

Lead Foot
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Posts
150
Reaction score
5
Location
TEXAS
Unscrewing the top two screws on the rear AC got me about 1/4" extra clearance to get behind it. TnTahoe you're right, the lines going under the truck would have to be undone to move it.

I got the rear section FatMat install done, including the wheel wells & side panels last night. That is some seriously sticky $hit folks. I had a hell of a time getting pieces around the Rear AC unit, because they would stick to everything. It took me about 5 hours to do, and I was squeegeeing and rolling the air pockets out of it all the way. All in all the install is very solid, and I'm happy with it so far.

FYI- I read online elsewhere that the FatMat has a weird smell, and I can tell you that what I installed did not smell at all. It was hot as hell in there too when I started the install; so much so that the metal on the floor was hot to the touch. I had a heat gun just in case, but did not need it. I figure if it was going to smell like tar it would have already. Even in the box both rolls did not stink. Maybe I got lucky, or maybe they fixed something... either way, my rolls were fine.

Oh yeah, the instructions say not to let the adhesive touch your hands. That's funny. I can see that being feasible on a flat surface, but in tight spaces it's pretty much impossible. It's got to be the stickiest $shit I have ever worked with too. Several times I had small pieces stick where I did not want them to, and even before burnishing them in place I had to grab with both hands and pull like hell to get it to release. I find it hard to believe that this stuff will ever fall off by itself, no matter how hot it gets. It was 110 in my garage last night when I started, and that stuff was stuck, stuck, stuck.

My photos look like everyone elses' photos, so I'll spare you all.

BH
 

TnTahoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Posts
788
Reaction score
2
Location
TN
can you tell a difference in the noise levels with just that small amount completed
 
OP
OP
bahollis

bahollis

Lead Foot
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Posts
150
Reaction score
5
Location
TEXAS
Yes, I noticed a difference. Yesterday on the highway it sounded like the liftgate was open it was so loud. The liftgate lets in lots of noise without the panels on it.

I think once I get the rear floor done, and the liftgate done, it will be a huge improvement over what's already installed too.

I can't wait to be done with the rear so I can put everything back in and see how it sounds, or doesn't sound.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
bahollis

bahollis

Lead Foot
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Posts
150
Reaction score
5
Location
TEXAS
How hard is it to remove the door trim? I looked last night, but did not give too much thought to it since I had a huge undertaking right in front of me.
 

mrtrill

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Posts
84
Reaction score
0
Location
ATL
This is my 1st suv iv owned. (2002 tahoe)
was running a 3k rms setup, 1k for mids & highs,
2k for subz, the only noise I dislike is
the back hatch rattle & those plastic vents on the rear rattled.

Other than that, I dont notice any other unwanted
noises. just my experience.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,324
Posts
1,866,004
Members
96,920
Latest member
BLS9
Top