Raising stock suspension, how much "crank" on the torsions is safe?

[Jerky Arm Ape]

Have a '98 yukon four door.
Running a 285/75-16 maxxis buckshot tire with 16x8" American racing wheels, 4.5" back space.

I would like a one inch block in the rear.
I like the level stance but I'm more particular on having even fender gap between the front and the rear.

Will 1"-1.5" worth of torsion cranking be safe on the front steering and suspension and cv angle?

I'm into offroad vw's so I'm very familiar with cv angle, if anyone know the safe continuous operating angle, I will be able to measure it.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Why have a 1" block? Do the 285's rub just a bit, or do you want the "look"?

Speaking from lots of experience, Do NOT crank the bars over 1 1/2", 1" is probably OK, but if you can get away without cranking them at all, your front suspension will last at least 2X longer....

Why not go with a body lift for clearance? If you don't like the excessive frame showing with a 3", go with a 2".

Read this:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52772

 

[Jerky Arm Ape]

Thank you for the link to a good thread.
I researched some on here but didn't click on that one because of the tittle.

Reason for the 1" block:
I purchaed my truck with a 3" block in the rear and the torsions raised to level it out.

I entertained the idea of keeping it this way.
Lowerd the torsions for a stock stance, rebuilt front suspension and steering with moog chassis parts, replaced hub assemblies and rotors/pads as well. And a new set of tires.

Was looking for slack on the 3rd oil change after all that work.

So no longer entertaining. Going to rebuild the front again, and leaf spring bushings+shackles as well as shocks. Oh and some more new tires.

I may go with the body lift idea. I still have the stock plastic running boards which will cover some of the frame.

And it is just the look, I don't go off-road in any of my vehicles, except for
The vw's.

---------- Post added at 09:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 PM ----------

Just incase someone knows where i can find these:

There is two things that would really sell me a body lift.

1) chrome (idealy stainless) "nerf" bars that mount in the same fashion as the OE running boards.

2) "mud flaps" / gravel guards that are made specifically for the vehicle that will protect the sides as well as my OE running boards... Maybe even some that can be made to look like they belong on the vehicle.
It wouldn't take much of a guard/flap, mine has the stainless rocker panels

 

[laredo1307]

What's the best way to measure the torsion bars to know if they are at the stock height? I'm recently rebuilt the front end on my 96 2dr with all new OEM parts. When I went to take tension off the torsion bars each one was at a different setting so I don't know exactly what to go back to. Not really sure what the previous owner was doing.

 

[bowtiefreak]

measure at the fenders. If the CVs get to be a crappy angle, decrank. More crank equals more wear