I have to replace my rear axle seals on both sides. I was advised to replace the bearings too b/c I am going through the initial trouble. How easy/hard was it to remove the bearings as well? Anyone who views this please assist. I am trying to find a video of someone replacing the seal and bearing but I am only finding reference to the Silverado. I don't know if they are the same or not. Plus, did you lube the bearings and seal before your install and what did you use?
Chevy Tahoe 2011 SSV
4x4
I am not sure what bearings this thread started out about, almost looks like front bearings. but now for the rear.
my experience is I noticed a rear seal leaking at 140k ish. I've had good luck on other cars and trucks with the timken fixer bearings that move the bearing to a fresh part of the axle and has a built in seal. so I pulled the old bearings even thou they looked good and installed the new ones.
ended up being a complete and total failure, with the g80 locker rear diff,(open diff they will probably work) you gotta push the axle inward so much to get the c clip back in, it damaged the seal on the new bearings and they leaked badly on both sides.
ended up stopping by a gm parts department and buying 2 new oem seals, put the original bearings back in, installed the new seals. hasn't had a problem since.
my 2 cents is if you pull the alxes out to change the seals, if the part of the axle that rides on the bearings is smooth and not pitted at all. Just replace the seals and put it back together. if it's pitted, you'll need to buy new axles and new(oem) seals/bearings.
if you do need to pull the bearings, there's a cheap puller kit on Amazon that works without messing up the tone ring that's about a 1/4in behind the bearing. better not to remove that if you don't have to add the extra hassle. install depth on it is pretty important.
mine is the small 8.5in diff. if you have the bigger 14 bolt, your experience might be different.