That’s where the one on my Silverado is because of the tubs. Works great, just have to remove the bumper to change it out. It won’t get stolen for sure.
Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)
- Thread starter randeez
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randeez
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say no more! done!
i was probably going to get a more "rugged" battery tray and face the battery back towards the engine, one that the clamp/brace encloses the whole thing, jacking it up i would be able to get it in and out it looks like, would make wiring a million times easier than installing it back where the spare tire was and running wire all the way forward. i dont think its going to take any more heat than where its already installed, if anything it would prob have more air circulate around it down in front. obvious downside is hitting anyone/thing, its about a a foot behind the crash bar and behind lowered any car i hit wouldnt go under it...crap on the road im pretty good about not hitting
do you notice the terminals getting gunked up or anything? they look pretty clean in the pic
i was probably going to get a more "rugged" battery tray and face the battery back towards the engine, one that the clamp/brace encloses the whole thing, jacking it up i would be able to get it in and out it looks like, would make wiring a million times easier than installing it back where the spare tire was and running wire all the way forward. i dont think its going to take any more heat than where its already installed, if anything it would prob have more air circulate around it down in front. obvious downside is hitting anyone/thing, its about a a foot behind the crash bar and behind lowered any car i hit wouldnt go under it...crap on the road im pretty good about not hitting
do you notice the terminals getting gunked up or anything? they look pretty clean in the pic
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Hitting or driving over debris would also be my concern. Don't drive through alligator alley and you'll be fine.
Well since I never drive it in the rain…no problem.
But I doubt you’ll have any issues. I feel that area mostly sees just rain unless you’re eating somebody’s rooster tails. And I don’t see your truck eating anything other than fuel.
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randeez
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still messing with ac.... after a few test runs, i drove it around till it started with the high discharge pressure crap. brought it back home and hooked the gauges on it then, i "adjusted" the high side pressure then and got it back down in the 260psi range. you can toggle on the compressor with hpt so i did that to keep compressor running, rev'd it up a little, re-adjusted etc.
i cant really turn off the system going to the chiller, it has a thermostatic valve so when it gets cold enough it should close - best i could do, turned off the water flow to it. i was trying to see how much i have of a drop across the condenser (the gauge port is on the cabin ac side and splits to go to the chiller before. the gauge port is way down to like 100psi, when the discharge sensor reads like 150psi. so i dont think that is right. i will prob try replacing the condenser.
with the chiller pump turned off the psi stays like 140-160 temp coming out of the ac vents is low 50s (90* ambient). when you start up the intercooler pump the psi starts to rise and settles around 200psi on the discharge pressure sensor. ac vent rises about 7-8* so i dont know wtf. if i hose down the condenser psi drops back down on the sensor. thinking the condenser might be the prob
Gaining a little confidence with the cooling system, I let it ride with the high pressure and it gets to like 220 before it finally stopped climbing.
ordered a new condenser and compressor to condenser hose. i have a different orifice valve ill also throw in while its all apart - sposed to be for hotter climates
i cant really turn off the system going to the chiller, it has a thermostatic valve so when it gets cold enough it should close - best i could do, turned off the water flow to it. i was trying to see how much i have of a drop across the condenser (the gauge port is on the cabin ac side and splits to go to the chiller before. the gauge port is way down to like 100psi, when the discharge sensor reads like 150psi. so i dont think that is right. i will prob try replacing the condenser.
with the chiller pump turned off the psi stays like 140-160 temp coming out of the ac vents is low 50s (90* ambient). when you start up the intercooler pump the psi starts to rise and settles around 200psi on the discharge pressure sensor. ac vent rises about 7-8* so i dont know wtf. if i hose down the condenser psi drops back down on the sensor. thinking the condenser might be the prob
Gaining a little confidence with the cooling system, I let it ride with the high pressure and it gets to like 220 before it finally stopped climbing.
ordered a new condenser and compressor to condenser hose. i have a different orifice valve ill also throw in while its all apart - sposed to be for hotter climates
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randeez
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Pita....
So this is where I'm at, 95*day...both sides work great, by themselves. Together pressure/ect starts to climb with both on high. I can slow the intercooler pump way down to 10% or lower the fan speed on the cabin ac and temps stay pretty good 205ish.
It's weird trying to adjust the pressures, they act like two completely separate systems. I don't have any test ports on the chiller side so I had to crack open one of the fittings to lower the high side psi
Got nearly done, took it for a drive and noticed bank A stft was way off...looks like header caught a spark plug wire, and it about melted the ECT Sensor- I'll prob move it to the manifold on the front of engine. But I need to tap one of the holes out larger
So this is where I'm at, 95*day...both sides work great, by themselves. Together pressure/ect starts to climb with both on high. I can slow the intercooler pump way down to 10% or lower the fan speed on the cabin ac and temps stay pretty good 205ish.
It's weird trying to adjust the pressures, they act like two completely separate systems. I don't have any test ports on the chiller side so I had to crack open one of the fittings to lower the high side psi
Got nearly done, took it for a drive and noticed bank A stft was way off...looks like header caught a spark plug wire, and it about melted the ECT Sensor- I'll prob move it to the manifold on the front of engine. But I need to tap one of the holes out larger
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randeez
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the wheels are in motion for fuel surge tank, but i guess the pumps are made to order so it may be a few weeks out. and knowing my welder, itll be minimum another 4 weeks. so i was going to buy another one of the pumps i have now just as an easy swap and be able to beat on it a little in the mean time.
BUT searching for the cheapest price, or even a used working one, i saw they have brush rebuild kits and seal kits for it pretty cheap - so if i can get the one ive got working again for 50bux and it hangs on a few weeks ill be happy.
i also have an injector going to **** i think - after the hours of idling over the weekend i went for a quick drive and had bank A wanting almost 20% more fuel meaning a dead cylinder basically. a few pages back i noticed the injectors working better with 60psi than the oe 43psi at low demand... i bumped up the stock pump to a minimum of 50psi and it seemed ok. but one injector seems completely dead right now.
i'll trouble shoot after its running again (it runs just no coolant in it) im moving the coolant temp sensor to the water manifold in the front, need to splice a new connector(ordered it and a new sensor) on and extend anyway since thats what melted. the manifold has 1/8" NPT threads in it, the ECT has a 12mmx1.5 thread so waiting on a drill and tap. i'll see if the injector comes back alive with more psi.
i made up a dual fuel pump relay deal, kinda sloppy though...leash electronics makes a nice, compact dual 70amp relay board, potted, incorporates jcase fuses, single large feed etc all in one deal. should work for new pump also and should clean up that wiring a lot.
BUT searching for the cheapest price, or even a used working one, i saw they have brush rebuild kits and seal kits for it pretty cheap - so if i can get the one ive got working again for 50bux and it hangs on a few weeks ill be happy.
i also have an injector going to **** i think - after the hours of idling over the weekend i went for a quick drive and had bank A wanting almost 20% more fuel meaning a dead cylinder basically. a few pages back i noticed the injectors working better with 60psi than the oe 43psi at low demand... i bumped up the stock pump to a minimum of 50psi and it seemed ok. but one injector seems completely dead right now.
i'll trouble shoot after its running again (it runs just no coolant in it) im moving the coolant temp sensor to the water manifold in the front, need to splice a new connector(ordered it and a new sensor) on and extend anyway since thats what melted. the manifold has 1/8" NPT threads in it, the ECT has a 12mmx1.5 thread so waiting on a drill and tap. i'll see if the injector comes back alive with more psi.
i made up a dual fuel pump relay deal, kinda sloppy though...leash electronics makes a nice, compact dual 70amp relay board, potted, incorporates jcase fuses, single large feed etc all in one deal. should work for new pump also and should clean up that wiring a lot.
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That looks like a nice little relay setup I'll have to check out their site. I'm always into cleaning up wiring, maybe they have something I can use.
Edit: that was quick, they don't have much stuff...
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randeez
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they have some nice relay boards, i knew they made boost controllers but never really looked at their site - diff forum someone posted a single relay board of theirs and i was like man a dual relay like that would kickass. and there it is, on their website
i like them and the ARC (auto rod controls) relay boards. im still going to end up needing one with 4 or 6 relays probably. ill see how the leash feels when ive got it in hand
