Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[pwtr02ss]

yea seems like if i could find someone with a large enough way to resurface the mating flange it would be fine. i'll prob keep it around and see how obviously warped it is

idle - is going good open loop, but startup is kinda iffy...during warm up rpm is kinda low so need to mess with it some more. hot starts are fine. may just try and fool the closed loop and hopefully itll work

Anyone with a decent size milling machine should be able to straighten that out for you. Simpler version would be a large belt sander but I'm not sure just how effective that would be. My old pan is up in the attic above the garage. We've used it a time or two for a temp pan while fitting an engine. Other than that, I doubt it's worth the hassle to make it seal up. Mine is pretty warped

 

[randeez]

Anyone with a decent size milling machine should be able to straighten that out for you. Simpler version would be a large belt sander but I'm not sure just how effective that would be. My old pan is up in the attic above the garage. We've used it a time or two for a temp pan while fitting an engine. Other than that, I doubt it's worth the hassle to make it seal up. Mine is pretty warped

yea ive got a bench style belt grinder but it only used like a 5x48" belt or something like that. only has effectively a 20" flat spot tho. i havent had much luck flattening anything out with it

 

[randeez]

drove it to office today, was pretty much problem free except for like the last 5 mile getting home

ran something over just as i was getting off i95 and right rear tire started losing air pretty quick. light came on and showed like 25 dropped to like 15 in the couple miles to house. had a nice sized hole in it, plugged it, topped them all off.

restarted to move out of the way and ac compressor wanted to be pissy, button flashing not engaging compressor

 

[pwtr02ss]

drove it to office today, was pretty much problem free except for like the last 5 mile getting home

ran something over just as i was getting off i95 and right rear tire started losing air pretty quick. light came on and showed like 25 dropped to like 15 in the couple miles to house. had a nice sized hole in it, plugged it, topped them all off.

restarted to move out of the way and ac compressor wanted to be pissy, button flashing not engaging compressor

At least you made it home. 2 steps forward..... Sounds like me sometimes

I changed the pos leaking advance auto front cv axle with another pos advance auto cv axle. Hopefully I'll get more than 2 years out of this one. So far, so good on the test drive.

 

[randeez]

drove it to office today, was pretty much problem free except for like the last 5 mile getting home

ran something over just as i was getting off i95 and right rear tire started losing air pretty quick. light came on and showed like 25 dropped to like 15 in the couple miles to house. had a nice sized hole in it, plugged it, topped them all off.

restarted to move out of the way and ac compressor wanted to be pissy, button flashing not engaging compressor

false alarm on the ac compressor, started it up a min ago and all was good

 

[randeez]

Just been buying stuff, not working on it

 

[randeez]

 

[randeez]

I have an urge to smooth out the oil pan, the rough cast drives me crazy.

Bought arp kit almost exclusively for the back two oil pan bolts, the factory bolts seem to take no torque to clean the threads off of them.

New rotor for ctsv , replacing other dented one.

Manual front CAD kit, not sure its even going to work. Need to see if it threads in at the least...the rest I'll figure out

May completely blow yukon apart and fix a few things. Front driveshaft has a pretty nasty angle , for some reason, may be contributing to vibration me thinks

 

[randeez]

And plugs for oil pressure relief in pan, vw oil drain plugs work good

 

[randeez]

Since I look at wiring diagrams 3 days a week ...figured I may as well see what do to leave the electric plunger in there...
Pretty simple found 20 schematics all with different wire colors so not sure which is what but the diagram at the bottom is what i used:
ground the black wire - same as my black wire
energize the (per schematic) BRN (brown) and LT BLU (light blue) - on mine yellow and purple**** i'll explain below
with those three wires connected the actuator retracts (no 4wd)
ground the BL/WHT (black/white) - mine was kinda grey/black but may just be old. when grounded it extends (4wd)

it would need to remain grounded to remain extended if that were how it was bult to work - but it seems GM disconnects the both the BL/WHT and the LT BLU when its fully extended, so youre not relying on constant closure of the relay to keep 4wd active, when you disconnect both wires the actuator stays extended but doesnt require power to do so