Rearend warranty claim (ATK)

[Woody258]

I replaced the rear in my '08 Tahoe with a NuTech RAXP0105C, ordered through AutoZone. NuTech says it's ATK. I installed mine and immediately had a pinion seal leak. I contacted them to see about having a repair paid for. They only offered a complete replacement and said the pinion seal couldn't be changed w/o resetting the gears. There was no way I was going to go through all the work of replacing the rear end for a seal leak. They also mentioned if I had the seal replaced myself it would void the warranty . I replaced the seal and no leaks.

After break in, I changed the fluid to Lucas 75/90 synth. Lately i've been having chatter until it warms up. I'm going to dump it soon and use a different fluid to see what happens. I just hope it's only chatter and not a problem with the gears.

 

[SRQYukon]

Welcome to the club. I've tried every solution that has been recommended for the chatter and none worked. No one here seems to have the solution. I just went ahead Friday with putting the friction modifier in to see if that works. ATK must be using something that is not to OEM specs, since none of the aforementioned lubes have worked. I'll post again if this helps. I'm not that hopeful.

 

[SRQYukon]

Welcome to the club. I've tried every solution that has been recommended for the chatter and none worked. No one here seems to have the solution. I just went ahead Friday with putting the friction modifier in to see if that works. ATK must be using something that is not to OEM specs, since none of the aforementioned lubes have worked. I'll post again if this helps. I'm not that hopeful.

Well, the friction modifier definitely helped. I'd say about 75% of the chatter is gone. So apparently ATK is not using the OEM technology in their remanufacturing.

 

[rockola1971]

Well, the friction modifier definitely helped. I'd say about 75% of the chatter is gone. So apparently ATK is not using the OEM technology in their remanufacturing.

1oz to 1pt of GL-5

 

[SRQYukon]

1oz to 1pt of GL-5

You're right but that's not what GM specifies.

 

[SRQYukon]

So after about two months with the friction modifier additive in the differential, the chatter is all but gone. I don't know why the setup that ATK uses requires it, but it simply has tons of chatter without it. Now I have a new wrinkle......The driver-side axle seal is leaking after only 3000 miles.

 

[Mudsport96]

So after about two months with the friction modifier additive in the differential, the chatter is all but gone. I don't know why the setup that ATK uses requires it, but it simply has tons of chatter without it. Now I have a new wrinkle......The driver-side axle seal is leaking after only 3000 miles.

I wonder if it has something to do with it having taken damage previously. With the left uca being bent, who knows if the the actual tube is fully straight.

 

[SRQYukon]

I wonder if it has something to do with it having taken damage previously. With the left uca being bent, who knows if the the actual tube is fully straight.

Definitely a possibility. Guess we'll find out when we inspect it and mic the tube.

 

[Erickk120]

For people that have never done a rear end, I would recommend to get the expensive pinion depth tool, use a gear set from motive/richmond/US gear, but dont get the cheap ones, get the good ones and use the depth they recommend stamped in the pinion head with the depth tool, set backlash/preload and call it good, the depth tool is 500 dollars, but worth it if you plan to mess around with rear ends, and you dont want to keep taking it apart like 10 times or more, Probably cheaper than buying a rebuilt unit that might leak or be poorly set up. And dont forget the learning experience is worth it at the end.

 

[Mudsport96]

For people that have never done a rear end, I would recommend to get the expensive pinion depth tool, use a gear set from motive/richmond/US gear, but dont get the cheap ones, get the good ones and use the depth they recommend stamped in the pinion head with the depth tool, set backlash/preload and call it good, the depth tool is 500 dollars, but worth it if you plan to mess around with rear ends, and you dont want to keep taking it apart like 10 times or more, Probably cheaper than buying a rebuilt unit that might leak or be poorly set up. And dont forget the learning experience is worth it at the end.

For the Chevy 8.5 in my Nova and all the Ford 8.8s I used to do, i have a set of pinion bearings machined so they barely slide on and off without a press. That way i can set up a rearend without having to press bearings 5 or 6 times. Then on final assembly, press on the inner and bam done. Done several that way for trucks, one for a 89 crown vic and one for an 8 second mustang all lived fine. Only one was a little noisier than the rest, but i attributed that to the ratio... 5.13s lol.