Refurbish or Replace

[shadowbrah]

I'm sure this has been discussed before. I have a 2005 Yukon SLT with 173K miles. I bought it with 112K miles and had transmission rebuilt soon after. I also had it repainted. The motor runs great. The front seats are showing wear. The only thing that really bugs me is the older vehicle rattling and squeaks.

I like the newer ones but don't wanna pay even $35,000 for a high-mileage 2015.

I love the rig. I'd love to bring it back to "almost" showroom condition. &10,000 would be my max budget.

Or should I put that money toward a newer rig?

What are thoughts? Have any of you restored yours?

 

[swathdiver]

I'm sure this has been discussed before. I have a 2005 Yukon SLT with 173K miles. I bought it with 112K miles and had transmission rebuilt soon after. I also had it repainted. The motor runs great. The front seats are showing wear. The only thing that really bugs me is the older vehicle rattling and squeaks.

I like the newer ones but don't wanna pay even $35,000 for a high-mileage 2015.

I love the rig. I'd love to bring it back to "almost" showroom condition. &10,000 would be my max budget.

Or should I put that money toward a newer rig?

What are thoughts? Have any of you restored yours?

Pour it right back into that truck and keep driving it! I say that with the caveat that she is not a rust bucket and does not have a rotten frame, but those can be replaced too!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I agree with Swathdiver. As long as rust is not becoming an issue anywhere on the truck, and your motor is good, seriously consider investing money into the existing truck to put it back into a condition that make you happy to keep driving it. You can track down and eliminate various rattles and squeaks, as all it takes is some of your invested time in finding their sources (and possibly someone else to assist in the search). Seats can be replaced or re-covered at reasonable costs.

Again, rust and rust-related metal deterioration, particularly on the frame, is usually the final deciding factor in determining when to move your truck to RIP status. So, take a good, long, and honest look are the metal on your truck, before reaching a final decision on whether to refurbish or replace.

 

[shadowbrah]

Pour it right back into that truck and keep driving it! I say that with the caveat that she is not a rust bucket and does not have a rotten frame, but those can be replaced too!

No rust. Thanks for the advice.

 

[shadowbrah]

I agree with Swathdiver. As long as rust is not becoming an issue anywhere on the truck, and your motor is good, seriously consider investing money into the existing truck to put it back into a condition that make you happy to keep driving it. You can track down and eliminate various rattles and squeaks, as all it takes is some of your invested time in finding their sources (and possibly someone else to assist in the search). Seats can be replaced or re-covered at reasonable costs.

Again, rust and rust-related metal deterioration, particularly on the frame, is usually the final deciding factor in determining when to move your truck to RIP status. So, take a good, long, and honest look are the metal on your truck, before reaching a final decision on whether to refurbish or replace.

No rust. Thanks for the advice

 

[shadowbrah]

I agree with Swathdiver. As long as rust is not becoming an issue anywhere on the truck, and your motor is good, seriously consider investing money into the existing truck to put it back into a condition that make you happy to keep driving it. You can track down and eliminate various rattles and squeaks, as all it takes is some of your invested time in finding their sources (and possibly someone else to assist in the search). Seats can be replaced or re-covered at reasonable costs.

Again, rust and rust-related metal deterioration, particularly on the frame, is usually the final deciding factor in determining when to move your truck to RIP status. So, take a good, long, and honest look are the metal on your truck, before reaching a final decision on whether to refurbish or replace.

 

[shadowbrah]

No rust. Thanks for the advice

 

[Big Mama]

I’m also in that boat. Isolate the squeaks and rattles get new bushings and body mounts. I’ve always thought one of the best mods you can do is upgrading the interior and audio. You’ll appreciate it every time you drive it. If you can do some basic wrenching you’ll save a lot doing it yourself.

 

[XL04]

Fix the rattles, squeaks, and seat tear. Do some other preventive maintenance that may need to be done but not showing yet. Maybe a few cosmetic upgrades if you're into that. Its definitely cheaper than a truck payment but dont go so overboard you can't recoup some money if you change your mind and want a newer vehicle, you never get back what you put in!

 

[YukonXLMan]

I had a similar dilemma several years ago about the same mileage on a 2004 Yukon XL. Chose to keep it. Purchased parts off Rock Auto's website and did my own wrenching. Some of my rear leather seats were way past their prime and was able to find matching color from the local junk yard for $35.00 a piece and lots of searching. Kept the auto until 311K miles then sold it to my neighbor (who still is driving it) when the newer car **** overtook me. While I love the new features, my wallet cries monthly post car payment. Let us know whatever you decide!