Replacing Exhaust Manifold Bolts

[George B]

That ARP kit is not too expensive. I would do it for the next guy even if I was selling tomorrow.

 

[donjetman]

I used this kit on both my 02 and my 09.

View attachment 266104

Or 134-1202 if you prefer 12 point head.

 

[Rocket Man]

I just got a package of FEL-PRO bolts from O'Reilly, who knew they made bolts. Never thought about ARP. If my Stock ones lasted 20 years I think these should last as long as I will ever own the truck.

Unfortunately the stock ones usually only last 5-10 years but we never even know they’re broken unless an exhaust leak points us in that direction. 1-2 on each side can be broken and you don’t even know. But I do know one thing- after trying to remove the broken studs left in the heads I will never take the chance again.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Do yall think that a cold engine is better?
My theory is that if the exhaust leaks we hear occur when the engine is cold and things haven’t expanded then the bolts would be “looser” as opposed to heated up and expanded and tightened up. Just a thought. I changed mine cold.

It all goes back to the days when shops use to heat stuff up with a torch to remove it. Now there are products in a spray can that will freeze the bolts to aid in removal. Maybe I will try that or just leave my truck outside in January when it gets down to 20 below zero.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

That ARP kit is not too expensive. I would do it for the next guy even if I was selling tomorrow.

.

 

[the_tool_man]

I'm about to swap out my broken motor mounts on the Denali (120k miles), thanks to GM, Black Bear and my right foot. I'm getting really high labor estimates from shops, and finding most won't accept the H3 mounts I've already purchased, because they're "non-original", and likely because it cuts into their margins. So after watching 15 or so YouTube videos, I'm considering doing it myself.

The most straightforward replacement methods require partial or complete removal of the exhaust manifold heat shields. And at least for the passenger side, I'll have to remove the fender liner. So this would seem to be a good opportunity to tackle the manifold bolts. I know I have one broken one (found the head lying on the driveway one morning, cold-start tick), but not which one yet.

I envision having to remove the manifold to access at least one bolt. So for those that have done this, is there enough room to pull the manifold off and get it over a full-length broken bolt without lifting the engine out? I'll gain a little room when I take each mount out and rock the engine over. But I have no idea if that's enough. Do I need to rent an engine hoist?

 

[wjburken]

I'm about to swap out my broken motor mounts on the Denali (120k miles), thanks to GM, Black Bear and my right foot. I'm getting really high labor estimates from shops, and finding most won't accept the H3 mounts I've already purchased, because they're "non-original", and likely because it cuts into their margins. So after watching 15 or so YouTube videos, I'm considering doing it myself.

The most straightforward replacement methods require partial or complete removal of the exhaust manifold heat shields. And at least for the passenger side, I'll have to remove the fender liner. So this would seem to be a good opportunity to tackle the manifold bolts. I know I have one broken one (found the head lying on the driveway one morning, cold-start tick), but not which one yet.

I envision having to remove the manifold to access at least one bolt. So for those that have done this, is there enough room to pull the manifold off and get it over a full-length broken bolt without lifting the engine out? I'll gain a little room when I take each mount out and rock the engine over. But I have no idea if that's enough. Do I need to rent an engine hoist?

I would think that there would be enough play to get the manifold off the "stud" of the broken bolt. If you put a piece of wood under the oil pan and use a floor jack to support the engine, you should not need an engine hoist.

 

[Rocket Man]

I'm about to swap out my broken motor mounts on the Denali (120k miles), thanks to GM, Black Bear and my right foot. I'm getting really high labor estimates from shops, and finding most won't accept the H3 mounts I've already purchased, because they're "non-original", and likely because it cuts into their margins. So after watching 15 or so YouTube videos, I'm considering doing it myself.

The most straightforward replacement methods require partial or complete removal of the exhaust manifold heat shields. And at least for the passenger side, I'll have to remove the fender liner. So this would seem to be a good opportunity to tackle the manifold bolts. I know I have one broken one (found the head lying on the driveway one morning, cold-start tick), but not which one yet.

I envision having to remove the manifold to access at least one bolt. So for those that have done this, is there enough room to pull the manifold off and get it over a full-length broken bolt without lifting the engine out? I'll gain a little room when I take each mount out and rock the engine over. But I have no idea if that's enough. Do I need to rent an engine hoist?

Yes of course you can replace a manifold without pulling the engine. You might have to unbolt it at the collector though so it’s completely loose from the rest of the exhaust, and those bolts tend to break so be sure to soak them a few times with your favorite penetrant. Also, you must be talking a NNBS? This is the NBS section but it doesn’t really matter, the exhausts are the same for the most part.

 

[George B]

If I ever have to remove a manifold I am going to plan on replacing the collector studs

 

[the_tool_man]

Yeah, NNBS. Sorry, I came across this on a search and didn't look at which gen it was for.

One silver lining...with the exhaust manifold removed from the passenger side, maybe I won't have to remove the starter to get the motor mount swapped, lol.

Thanks for the info.