I put the shorter sensor bars in and put them at 3" center to center like it said. Maybe I need to shorten them some more to see what happens. The leaking shock I think is just old but just odd that it started leaking right after lowering it.
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Any pics of your set up?My recommendation is not to use the Belltech rear springs because they are way too soft. They will work and I used them for over a year but always thought they felt soft compared to the front. From what I can tell the Auto Ride uses much stiffer springs than the trucks with passive shocks. The Belltech springs also lower more than advertised. I used the spacers under mine which is supposed to be a 3” drop but it is more like 4.” When I tried McGaughy’s 3” springs, it raised the rear 1.5.” Now I’m using MaxTrac 271240 4” rear springs and the ride height is within 0.25” of the Belltech’s with the spacer and now feels much better. I’m still using Belltech’s 2” drop knuckles in the front and I also like they links they have for the rear sensors instead of bending them or repositioning the sensor and they’re shorter bump stops look better than cutting the factory ones.
For the shock extenders, use McGaughy’s. Their’s offer the most drop to the shock. The Belltech extenders don’t actually drop the shock down any but move it back to make it more vertical (which is only better if you have passive suspension and can order shorter shocks).
For sway bar links, Hellwig offers shorter and adjustable ones that don’t require the bar to be moved over which isn’t necessary at a 4” rear drop anyway. I also recommend the Hellwig sway bars, the difference is massive. I also recommend the Spohn panhard bar if nothing else for the poly bushings that keep the differential in position better.
All of this applies to short wheel base. I just lowered my new-to-me long wheel base and have an odd vibration under heavy acceleration is 75mph I’m working on sorting out. I thought I had an internal differential problem but that is not the case. I measured the driveline working angles and they were in spec sitting but may not be while driving under load. I’m not sure yet if the solution is maybe the DJM control arm relocation brackets or Spohn adjustable arms.
You 100% need drop shocks. Belltech Street Performance shocks are what you wantRear is currently at 4.5in drop.
I've got the DJM hardware kit install. (Trailing arm and shock relocation brackets). I'm currently running stock rear shocks and looking to upgrade. Since I'm running the DJM shock relocation brackets, there's no need to buy drop shocks correct? So I assume I should just get a quality, stock length rear shock?
Any advantage/disadvantage of running a drop shock with the shock relocation brackets?
Thanks!
So drop shocks with the relocation brackets will work? Or am I going to need to remove the relocation brackets.?You 100% need drop shocks. Belltech Street Performance shocks are what you want
So drop shocks with the relocation brackets will work? Or am I going to need to remove the relocation brackets.?
2410FF's are the ones I should get? Or what's better with a 4in spring and shock relocation brackets? Thanks!Nope keep the brackets on there
2410FF's are the ones I should get? Or what's better with a 4in spring and shock relocation brackets? Thanks!
Much appreciatedYup those are them. They’ll last a very long time on a 4” drop with the extenders. I have them on ~8” suspension drop and they lasted like 3 years