Rise of the Turd-burban

[iamdub]

Quandry of the hour-
Upon completing the install of new front brakes and new hoses, something still lingers on my mind… and in my brake system. A ton of crud! My brake fluid reservoir had black sludge build up all over the inside. I removed the reservoir and flushed most out with brake cleaner, but it’s not to my satisfaction yet.
But… if all this crap is in the reservoir, it MUST be in the brake lines as well!!

So, how do I flush this crud out? Should I disconnect the hoses at the calipers and shoot brake cleaner through all the lines until it comes out clean, then flush with new fluid?
Would denatured alcohol work?
Inquiring minds would like to know.

I certainly don’t want all this doodoo in my new fancy front binders.
What’s with these copper washers on the banjo fitting- can they not be reused once torqued down?

I got a bunch of figuring out to do on this brake system for the turd before it’s “go” ready. Who would’ve guessed the turd would be full of crap!?

Nooj

I don't know how one would flush the system of the doodoo. I flush the fluid every time I do a brake job by bleeding it out of the the right rear caliper until it's all new fluid, then move to the others in sequence. This doesn't dissolve and evacuate any of that sludge you're talking about, though. If it's in the reservoir, it's everywhere else- including the ABS module. Maybe some aggressive flushing using pressure and/or vacuum would be sufficient? I've never looked into a chemical means.

Copper crush washers should NOT be reused.

 

[Nooj]

I don't know how one would flush the system of the doodoo. I flush the fluid every time I do a brake job by bleeding it out of the the right rear caliper until it's all new fluid, then move to the others in sequence. This doesn't dissolve and evacuate any of that sludge you're talking about, though. If it's in the reservoir, it's everywhere else- including the ABS module. Maybe some aggressive flushing using pressure and/or vacuum would be sufficient? I've never looked into a chemical means.

Copper crush washers should NOT be reused.

I’ve got the copper washers on order.
I reckon I’ve got a couple days to figure out how to deturd this shrimp.

Do you think injector cleaner, or carb cleaner would clean the gunk? I could plug off the lines, fill the reservoir with said cleaner, unplug the lines one at a time until they are filled with the cleaner and let it set overnight. Flush it with mineral spirits, then flush with brake fluid.

I guess I need to look into this “abs module” you speak of. If I could clean it without destroying it, that would be optimal.

 

[97YukonNZ]

I’ve got the copper washers on order.
I reckon I’ve got a couple days to figure out how to deturd this shrimp.

Do you think injector cleaner, or carb cleaner would clean the gunk? I could plug off the lines, fill the reservoir with said cleaner, unplug the lines one at a time until they are filled with the cleaner and let it set overnight. Flush it with mineral spirits, then flush with brake fluid.

I guess I need to look into this “abs module” you speak of. If I could clean it without destroying it, that would be optimal.

Sounds like it would be a good idea trying some other substances to clean the lines.
I do thinks caution towards solvent soaking! Could potentially damage rubber seals and master plunger.

As @iamdub suggested flushing fresh fluid through drinker side rear 1st and then the rest

Check resistance and flow. If after a flush you are happy with braking power maybe don't over think it!

Lol hows your cholesterol

 

[Nooj]

Maybe this ol burb needs a diet high in whole grain to reduce its cholesterol and plaque buildup. I’ll throw some cheerios in the gas tank and master cylinder. A well balanced diet and exercise program will have it in shape in no time. Good call, @97YukonNZ!

Wait… you asked about my cholesterol. Eh, the scale doesn’t go high enough to read mine, I’m afraid.

Ya know, you’d think if brake fluid can eat paint it should be about to eat the crud out of the brake lines.

Ok- new plan! I’m going to overthink it for a while, then procrastinate, and eventually do something that will probably cost me a lot of time and money in the long run.
No, no…. That’s been my plan all along. Dashitall! I need a better plan.

 

[OR VietVet]

I’ve got the copper washers on order.
I reckon I’ve got a couple days to figure out how to deturd this shrimp.

Do you think injector cleaner, or carb cleaner would clean the gunk? I could plug off the lines, fill the reservoir with said cleaner, unplug the lines one at a time until they are filled with the cleaner and let it set overnight. Flush it with mineral spirits, then flush with brake fluid.

I guess I need to look into this “abs module” you speak of. If I could clean it without destroying it, that would be optimal.

Good luck with trying to clean out and making the ABS assembly like new. That thing is best described as "bad juju" when it comes to being finicky.

 

[S33k3r]

Maybe this ol burb needs a diet high in whole grain to reduce its cholesterol and plaque buildup. I’ll throw some cheerios in the gas tank and master cylinder. A well balanced diet and exercise program will have it in shape in no time. Good call, @97YukonNZ!

Wait… you asked about my cholesterol. Eh, the scale doesn’t go high enough to read mine, I’m afraid.

Ya know, you’d think if brake fluid can eat paint it should be about to eat the crud out of the brake lines.

Ok- new plan! I’m going to overthink it for a while, then procrastinate, and eventually do something that will probably cost me a lot of time and money in the long run.
No, no…. That’s been my plan all along. Dashitall! I need a better plan.

Use a tiny auger or power sprayer? Seems like just filling then flushing brake fluid should do it. Just going to be a long, painful process.

 

[Nooj]

Ready BRAKE!

So I flushed out my hard lines (disconnected from the master cylinder, and disconnected one at a time at the wheels). I used some various bits of rubber hosing, my harbor freight vacuum brake bleeder, a bit of acetone, and a copious amount of swear words during the procedure- but here is some of the results.



This is the funk I flushed out.



Here you can see some of the delicious giblets that came out of my brake system. I also hosed out the master cylinder reservoir with break fluid, degreaser, yak jîzz- whatever else I could find that I thought might clean it.
While it got 98% off the crud out, there was still some ****** stuck to the inside that I couldn’t reach.

At any rate- after a long, arduous brake bleeding session, I was rock hard! Well, the pedal was, anyways.

So I set off on a mission! See if this big ******** would stop when commanded, get my “new” tires mounted, and drive this thing so the dern emission thingies would be “complete” so I could pass the smog check.

Step one- it stopped! Repeatedly! I can’t say whether it’s a massive improvement over what was there, because I didn’t trust the brakes before so I never worked them hard. Plus, I’ve driven this thing less than 50 miles since I’ve owned it. But, I feel better about them, so- WIN!

Number deuce- I went to get my tires mounted on my big ugly dubs, and I may have did a thing….



Yes sir!! Look at them squirrel smashers! They’re nissan stock 20’s. They clear the big brakes, and they look way better than the ones that came on the turd.
What y’all think?? Better? They still say Nissan in the center cap.
With the 275/65r20’s (34.1”) there’s a minor touch to the fender liner at full lock, but nothing extreme.

Turd. I mean third- I updated my automotive scanner program (Mahle Techpro) and now it won’t let me do plain ol obd2 crap on my 02 suburban!! So, I don’t know if my emission systems are “complete” yet. How many cycles or miles does this crap usually take? I drove the turd more today than I have the rest of the time I’ve owned it- still was saying “Not complete” on evep system and catalytic something or another (before I updated and lost the ability to check).

If I can get my emission test done and get this thing tagged- I’ll be so happy, I could lay flat on my stomach and shît straight up into the air.

Nooj

 

[Tonyrodz]

Ready BRAKE!

So I flushed out my hard lines (disconnected from the master cylinder, and disconnected one at a time at the wheels). I used some various bits of rubber hosing, my harbor freight vacuum brake bleeder, a bit of acetone, and a copious amount of swear words during the procedure- but here is some of the results.

View attachment 378947

This is the funk I flushed out.

View attachment 378948

Here you can see some of the delicious giblets that came out of my brake system. I also hosed out the master cylinder reservoir with break fluid, degreaser, yak jîzz- whatever else I could find that I thought might clean it.
While it got 98% off the crud out, there was still some ****** stuck to the inside that I couldn’t reach.

At any rate- after a long, arduous brake bleeding session, I was rock hard! Well, the pedal was, anyways.

So I set off on a mission! See if this big ******** would stop when commanded, get my “new” tires mounted, and drive this thing so the dern emission thingies would be “complete” so I could pass the smog check.

Step one- it stopped! Repeatedly! I can’t say whether it’s a massive improvement over what was there, because I didn’t trust the brakes before so I never worked them hard. Plus, I’ve driven this thing less than 50 miles since I’ve owned it. But, I feel better about them, so- WIN!

Number deuce- I went to get my tires mounted on my big ugly dubs, and a may have did a thing….

View attachment 378949

Yes sir!! Look at them squirrel smashers! They’re nissan stock 20’s. They clear the big brakes, and they look way better than the ones that came on the turd.
What y’all think?? Better? They still say Nissan in the center cap.
With the 275/65r20’s (34.1”) there’s a minor touch to the fender liner at full lock, but nothing extreme.

Turd. I mean third- I updated my automotive scanner program (Mahle Techpro) and now it won’t let me do plain ol obd2 crap on my 02 suburban!! So, I don’t know if my emission systems are “complete” yet. How many cycles or miles does this crap usually take? I drove the turd more today than I have three rest of the time I’ve owned it- still was saying “Not complete” on evep system and catalytic something or another (before I updated and lost the ability to check).

If I can get my emission test done and get this thing tagged- I’ll be so happy, I could lay flat on my stomach and shît straight up into the air.

Nooj

Pretty sure @Doubeleive has said it takes a certain number of either drive cycles or key starts....? For them to show ready.
Nice rims. They look 1,000 times better. You could always change the center cap.

 

[adventurenali92]

Those Nissan wheels look good! Always love a good color contrast between the body of the truck and the wheel! If the Chevy bow tie caps don’t fit those wheels you could always get the right sized cap for those wheels in a blank and have bow ties made up in commercial grade vinyl. That’s how I have Denali logoed center caps.

 

[Doubeleive]

Pretty sure @Doubeleive has said it takes a certain number of either drive cycles or key starts....? For them to show ready.
Nice rims. They look 1,000 times better. You could always change the center cap.

ya the evap system has to cylce thru cold & hot a few times before it will set, so it has to sit until it fully cool down before you drive it again and rinse and repeat.