05Single
afraid of the dark
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2015
- Posts
- 8,186
- Reaction score
- 11,456
Made another set for my buddy , he has Nissan 20s on his obs Yukon. They look good. I have pics somewhere.
Rise of the Turd-burban
- Thread starter Nooj
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
iamdub
Full Access Member
That’s the BETTER carpet of the two!
Since you already have a pressure washer, blast that carpet when you start mix-matching the interiors.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I'm a fan of J-B Weld Plastic Bonder
Sound quality in the turd is…. Lacking.
It has pioneer speakers in the doors, but they’re still fed through the factory amp. I plan on doing the bypass to get a better range through the door speakers.
As for right now though- I’m getting no action out of my tattered sub in the rear. Should it at least be trying to move? I get sound from the tweeter on that side (but not the opposite side).
And then there’s this
I found that connected into the orange wire coming from the factory amp, here
Any idea what this horse crap is?
Where would the factory sub likely be bypassed, if someone had used a separate sub and bypassed the factory one?
Nooj
It has pioneer speakers in the doors, but they’re still fed through the factory amp. I plan on doing the bypass to get a better range through the door speakers.
As for right now though- I’m getting no action out of my tattered sub in the rear. Should it at least be trying to move? I get sound from the tweeter on that side (but not the opposite side).
And then there’s this
I found that connected into the orange wire coming from the factory amp, here
Any idea what this horse crap is?
Where would the factory sub likely be bypassed, if someone had used a separate sub and bypassed the factory one?
Nooj
TollKeeper
Full Access Member
Probably a power filter would be my guess.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Is that the same as a noise suppressor?
Sparksalot
Supporting Member
Yep
Turns out the reason I had no sound from the rear sub is because it was crap.
I reinstalled the power filter thing, and installed my new sub, which is the MB Quart Discus ds1-204.
I now have bass!! Sounds much better, but I’m still going to do the crossover bypass for the door speakers when my parts come in tomorrow.
I caught hell trying to remount the jack and equipment back in the rear panel (they were just all laying in there, rattling about!). Found out I’m missing the stinking hook and knob to hold the wheel chocks to the Jack! That’s ok, I can fab that up. Another day, though.
You ever taken apart a mirror control switch? Here’s what it looks like
Normally the traces on the circuit boards are the thin foil lines, but on this one it looked like the thin lines were the gaps between the conductors. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and gently scrubbed away tiny bits of unknown crusty substances between the conductors and between the solder joints. I also slightly bent the tiny fingers on the left/right selector switch outward so they’d make good contact. And VIOLA!! My power mirrors now work!
I wonder if it was bridging, or just crusted over with stuff, not allowing current flow when the pads made contact, or if it was just the L/R selector… The World May never know! Either way, they work now. Plus one for the ol me!
Tomorrow- road trip to pick up the parts car, using the un-tagged turd to haul it with!! Lord help me… I hope it makes it.
Nooj
I reinstalled the power filter thing, and installed my new sub, which is the MB Quart Discus ds1-204.
I now have bass!! Sounds much better, but I’m still going to do the crossover bypass for the door speakers when my parts come in tomorrow.
I caught hell trying to remount the jack and equipment back in the rear panel (they were just all laying in there, rattling about!). Found out I’m missing the stinking hook and knob to hold the wheel chocks to the Jack! That’s ok, I can fab that up. Another day, though.
You ever taken apart a mirror control switch? Here’s what it looks like
Normally the traces on the circuit boards are the thin foil lines, but on this one it looked like the thin lines were the gaps between the conductors. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and gently scrubbed away tiny bits of unknown crusty substances between the conductors and between the solder joints. I also slightly bent the tiny fingers on the left/right selector switch outward so they’d make good contact. And VIOLA!! My power mirrors now work!
I wonder if it was bridging, or just crusted over with stuff, not allowing current flow when the pads made contact, or if it was just the L/R selector… The World May never know! Either way, they work now. Plus one for the ol me!
Tomorrow- road trip to pick up the parts car, using the un-tagged turd to haul it with!! Lord help me… I hope it makes it.
Nooj
Last edited:
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Hopefully it has the extra parts for the jack. I love parts cars!
Is your new sub an 8" in the original sub box? Was that sub pricey?
Similar threads
