Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

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Rocket Man

Rocket Man

Mark
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I've had a brand new front air dam from an 05 sitting in the spare bedroom ever since I went from 26's to 22's because the truck sits too low and I damaged the other one that was on it. The things catch curbs because they're at just the right height. I debated on selling it but today I decided to just cut 1" off the bottom and have a go. If it catches curbs again, that will be the end of it. Doesn't look too bad. Better than none at all.IMG_9128.JPG IMG_9130.JPG IMG_9131.JPG
 
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Rocket Man

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Mark
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Today I flushed the power steering at 163 k. Put 3 quarts through the system. I followed the method of jacking the front wheels off the ground, removing the return line and adding an extension to it while blocking off the other end, sticking the hose in an empty bucket and turning the wheels from lock to lock and adding fluid at every cycle. I couldn't tell if it was coming out clear due to having no helper so every time I quit turning the wheel the fluid stopped coming out of the hose but it seems 3 quarts was the norm that others found to be correct. The old fluid was brown but not black. Steering does seem to feel a bit better. I've never flushed power steering before so this was a first.
 

Sam Harris

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I pulled the passenger wheel and liner tonight so I could get to #8. I see that some of the heat shield pulled out of the heat shrink when I bent and twisted one of the wires into the best position but I really don't care- I was able to adjust them by twisting them in a circular motion on both the plug and coil until they were centered from the header pipe on each side. here's a pic of the burned Taylor wire as well as my $250 box of useless wires. Actually, I have a complete set of MSD wires if anybody with stock setup with heat shields is interested, no burns and barely used. I just pulled them in order to install the Taylors. They're not the best for headers but should be great for a stock exhaust. And they're red for an extra +10 HP lol.

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So what do you think of these wires Mark? I’m still debating going with those, or the Accel ceramic boot wires. I’ll be returning the Taylor wires, since they’re going to be too long, and get melted quickly.
 

05Single

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Truck still looking sexy :boobs:
Good idea in the lip trim, being low we know every inch makes a huge difference. I’m afraid once I drop my bumper an 1.5 for a HD pad I’ll have to take off the lip:bawl:
And I never bothered to put leds in my drls cause I already knew what a hassle it is. Just delete the dark and add a signal:ehcapt:
 
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Rocket Man

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I decided to attempt to fix my rear ac today. In the process I found out why the leads on the Tech2 are so long. I could sit in the back with the engine running (sorry neighbors lol) and command the mix door, mode door and rear fan. I ended up removing the actuators and testing the doors manually and they both seemed to work right so I started the engine with both removed and manually moved them both. I was able to watch the outlet temp go from 100 degrees to 58 degrees when I moved the mode (or is it mix) door. The door that controls where the air comes out of ( mix door ?) worked fine so I tried switching actuators ( they’re the same p/n) and that caused the fan to not come on at all. So I switched them back but left the one off and just turned the thing manually to the ac position so it works. Ordered a new actuator. I’ve done the reset procedure and it hasn’t helped so I’m hoping it’s just the actuator. I’ve never had rear ac so it will be nice. My Tech 2 doesn’t do too much as far as diagnosing this in the 02. There’s quite a few things that it does different starting in 03 when they changed to a bus system.

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Tonyrodz

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I decided to attempt to fix my rear ac today. In the process I found out why the leads on the Tech2 are so long. I could sit in the back with the engine running (sorry neighbors lol) and command the mix door, mode door and rear fan. I ended up removing the actuators and testing the doors manually and they both seemed to work right so I started the engine with both removed and manually moved them both. I was able to watch the outlet temp go from 100 degrees to 58 degrees when I moved the mode (or is it mix) door. The door that controls where the air comes out of ( mix door ?) worked fine so I tried switching actuators ( they’re the same p/n) and that caused the fan to not come on at all. So I switched them back but left the one off and just turned the thing manually to the ac position so it works. Ordered a new actuator. I’ve done the reset procedure and it hasn’t helped so I’m hoping it’s just the actuator. I’ve never had rear ac so it will be nice. My Tech 2 doesn’t do too much as far as diagnosing this in the 02. There’s quite a few things that it does different starting in 03 when they changed to a bus system.

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I wish the 03's up had the unlock button in the cargo area. Comes in handy.
 
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Rocket Man

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I wish the 03's up had the unlock button in the cargo area. Comes in handy.
Yes it does. I kept reaching for it when I was driving the Tahoe. So I decided to just put some pliers on the old actuator since I figured it was getting replaced anyway. I had the rear temp set to max cold and manually turned the blend door all the way over so it was blowing cold air, shut the truck off and then moved the actuator until it matched the angle and reinstalled it. It works now, turn the controls to hot and it changes to hot, turn it cold and the output temp matched the front within 2 degrees, 58 front and 60 rear. Tried it a few times and so far so good.
 

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