Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

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Rocket Man

Rocket Man

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Last week I replaced the incandescent bulbs in the driver switch panels- all 3 panels. And in the secondary DIC which resides under where the cd changer used to be. What a PIA. Such tiny pads to solder to on some of them and no way to get to the back side of the window switch circuit board to do those properly so you have to cut the leads shirt, put an L bend so they run across the pad and solder them from the top. They end up protruding from the board farther9C574860-AB4A-4D86-BFAE-1827D96EF20F.jpeg 99CD2A2E-9708-46D4-92E4-0077881B024B.jpeg 3F36671C-227F-4EC1-8C07-09C7AB00FBA9.jpeg 6ACE081C-1692-487F-8DCE-9E4D1A7FA85E.jpeg D8626AE4-038D-452A-9236-9DFF56304F09.jpeg but everything fits back together. Anyway all was well until tonight and the front window switches went dark again. I opened it and found that bulb was melted inside the diffuser. Weird. Not sure what that was about but I had bought spares so I replaced it again. Back in business.
 

Tonny

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I’ve never kept recording as it shifts from second to third or third to fourth. By the time it shifts to third I’m probably going about 80-90 mph and by then I’m looking out for cops and keeping it on thd road lol. I’ll see if I can make a wot run out in the country soon or at least watch the tach. I never paid attention.
A like that. Well there is where my win is, when on the highway, max speed is 130kph(80ishmph). Atm only from 1900 to 0600 because the Dutch government thinks they can save the worlds climate with our little country by driving max. 100kph on the highway from 0600 until 1900. And 120 kph is the 5000rpm shift point to 3th gear, which is the slowmaker for this engine because third gears drops to low in rpms. When second gear goes to 5900 rpm, you get a way better shifting point, for me much better when want to past on the highway!

Sorry I'm talking about KPH. Here is a vid of mine doing 100 to 180 kph. You see how it drops after shifting from second to third...

EDIT: @BlackBearPerf
THanks for the reply.
 
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JGib

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What an epic thread! Got through about 150 pages and had to quit. While we have different vehicles, our paths are similar.

2007 tahoe ltz
New gm long block
2.3l whipple sc here but not installed.

From this thread i learned to pay close attention to those sc gaskets and orings.
Ordered the TA rear differential girdle
Contemplating which transmission to use (performabuilt, gearstar, monster, etc)

Have you been happy with the performabuilt unit?

Tks!
 
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Rocket Man

Rocket Man

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What an epic thread! Got through about 150 pages and had to quit. While we have different vehicles, our paths are similar.

2007 tahoe ltz
New gm long block
2.3l whipple sc here but not installed.

From this thread i learned to pay close attention to those sc gaskets and orings.
Ordered the TA rear differential girdle
Contemplating which transmission to use (performabuilt, gearstar, monster, etc)

Have you been happy with the performabuilt unit?

Tks!
Ill tell you a story, and let me me say this about Performabuilt- their warranty is awesome. Unknown to me, you should never use RTV on the pan gasket. It plugs up the servo passages so the fluid doesn’t drain and they don’t release right which causes extremely hard shifts and is real rough on the hard parts. Now, be aware the 1-2 shift on a level 3 is pretty damn hard to begin with so I didn’t really think about it but in hindsight it was REALLY hard after the fluid/ filter change. The warranty requires a fluid and filter change after break-in and a couple months after I did that the first time, I was racing a Subaru WRX off the line and when it hit second it grenaded. I sent it in under warranty and when they opened it up they didn’t catch the fact the passages were plugged I guess, and they called me and said the internals had a lot of damage and didn’t make sense but it looked like the converter had been banging into the input shaft ( there were dents in the end of the input shaft which I figured out later must have been there on the original core trans before they built it) so my thrust bearing on the engine must be bad, causing the crank to move back and forth. I bought a dial caliper and the thrust bearing checked out fine, so that failure remained a mystery st the time. Then over a year later, a couple months after I did the fluid/filter on the warranty unit, once again on a WOT launch it broke again on the 1-2 shift. It was out of warranty this time. This time Ryan called me and emailed pics of the output shaft. It was a twist break on it. The damn output shaft had twisted until it snapped. He sent pics of the RTV in the servo passages. He asked if it had been shifting really hard and I said hell yes, like REALLY hard. He explained that when the servos can’t drain, they don’t release and this creates a lot of shock on all the hard parts and this us likely why it broke both times. They must not have caught that the first time. They covered it under warranty anyway, even though it was my fault and even though it was 6 months out of warranty. This last time they also changed a spring in it so the 1-2 shift isn’t so harsh. I’m not running it on the drag strip and I asked if they could help that. It used to make the truck shake pretty hard before, even before I messed things up and made it even more harsh. So I have nothing but good things to say about them. That last time I was even willing to upgrade to the Black Edition but Ryan told me I didn’t need to spend that money, he was sure the Level 3 would not break again unless I plug up those passages, and if I do even the Black will break. All it’s cost me is shipping to them both times, about $100 both times. They paid to ship it back and rebuilt it for feee both times. Lesson learned for me. And I don’t think anybody else would have covered it.
 

JGib

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Ill tell you a story, and let me me say this about Performabuilt- their warranty is awesome. Unknown to me, you should never use RTV on the pan gasket. It plugs up the servo passages so the fluid doesn’t drain and they don’t release right which causes extremely hard shifts and is real rough on the hard parts. Now, be aware the 1-2 shift on a level 3 is pretty damn hard to begin with so I didn’t really think about it but in hindsight it was REALLY hard after the fluid/ filter change. The warranty requires a fluid and filter change after break-in and a couple months after I did that the first time, I was racing a Subaru WRX off the line and when it hit second it grenaded. I sent it in under warranty and when they opened it up they didn’t catch the fact the passages were plugged I guess, and they called me and said the internals had a lot of damage and didn’t make sense but it looked like the converter had been banging into the input shaft ( there were dents in the end of the input shaft which I figured out later must have been there on the original core trans before they built it) so my thrust bearing on the engine must be bad, causing the crank to move back and forth. I bought a dial caliper and the thrust bearing checked out fine, so that failure remained a mystery st the time. Then over a year later, a couple months after I did the fluid/filter on the warranty unit, once again on a WOT launch it broke again on the 1-2 shift. It was out of warranty this time. This time Ryan called me and emailed pics of the output shaft. It was a twist break on it. The damn output shaft had twisted until it snapped. He sent pics of the RTV in the servo passages. He asked if it had been shifting really hard and I said hell yes, like REALLY hard. He explained that when the servos can’t drain, they don’t release and this creates a lot of shock on all the hard parts and this us likely why it broke both times. They must not have caught that the first time. They covered it under warranty anyway, even though it was my fault and even though it was 6 months out of warranty. This last time they also changed a spring in it so the 1-2 shift isn’t so harsh. I’m not running it on the drag strip and I asked if they could help that. It used to make the truck shake pretty hard before, even before I messed things up and made it even more harsh. So I have nothing but good things to say about them. That last time I was even willing to upgrade to the Black Edition but Ryan told me I didn’t need to spend that money, he was sure the Level 3 would not break again unless I plug up those passages, and if I do even the Black will break. All it’s cost me is shipping to them both times, about $100 both times. They paid to ship it back and rebuilt it for feee both times. Lesson learned for me. And I don’t think anybody else would have covered it.
Wow. Thats good to hear. So far they have been responsive to my questions as well. So has TA performance. Whipple on the other hand not so much. Thats a whole other story! Extra parts, hoses, missing information, etc etc.
I think I am going to go ahead with the performabuilt one. My 4L60E has 235k miles on it (100k miles with the bbp tune) and its still strong but its inevitable. With the bbp the shifts are now more "firm" Did you get them to send you a new tune for the trans?
As for the whipple, bbp sent me my factory tune since I have misplaced it which I am then going to load up with the autocal so that I can use the hp tuner from whipple to download the tune to send to them, in return load up the whipple tune then send to bbp, along with a datalog for improvement. As busy as they are this is what they recommended. I can get the trans tune during this time as well if needed.
Sorry for hijacking the post with all these questions but many of ur mods are inline with what I have....
Aem failsafe, where to mount the trans cooler since our intercooler sits where all the aftermarket companies want to mount the cooler. (Saw you on that thread as well, install using glennsautoperformance items.
 
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Rocket Man

Rocket Man

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Wow. Thats good to hear. So far they have been responsive to my questions as well. So has TA performance. Whipple on the other hand not so much. Thats a whole other story! Extra parts, hoses, missing information, etc etc.
I think I am going to go ahead with the performabuilt one. My 4L60E has 235k miles on it (100k miles with the bbp tune) and its still strong but its inevitable. With the bbp the shifts are now more "firm" Did you get them to send you a new tune for the trans?
As for the whipple, bbp sent me my factory tune since I have misplaced it which I am then going to load up with the autocal so that I can use the hp tuner from whipple to download the tune to send to them, in return load up the whipple tune then send to bbp, along with a datalog for improvement. As busy as they are this is what they recommended. I can get the trans tune during this time as well if needed.
Sorry for hijacking the post with all these questions but many of ur mods are inline with what I have....
Aem failsafe, where to mount the trans cooler since our intercooler sits where all the aftermarket companies want to mount the cooler. (Saw you on that thread as well, install using glennsautoperformance items.
The tune for the trans- iirc you just need to make sure the line pressure is set for stock and use BB’s normal tune. I believe BB doesn’t change line pressure. Performabuilt will be the ones to ask about that, and check with BB to be sure their changes are in line with what Performabuilt specs. I didn’t use the glenns mounts for my trans cooler- for one thing you won’t have room for the TruCool 40k. I mounted the 32k or whatever the next size down is, behind my lower grill opening in my bumper. It just bolted up there.
 

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