LowCountryTim's 2011 Tahoe Build Thread

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LowCountryTim

LowCountryTim

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You can get complete replacement upper and lower control arms with new bushings and ball joints that will make the swap a lot easier for the diy guy with them being that cracked up I’d lean towards replacement
Last time I looked I think the lower arms were maybe 150$ a piece give or take
The uppers I’m not sure cause I ran aftermarket upper control arms
Thanks, I just really wasn't sure if they looked good or bad.

I was leaning toward pressing new ones in just to try something new. Ofc it's a lot cheaper too, but I figure if it goes South I could always order new ones.

I want to to the 2" drop spindle so I'll be keeping the stock upper arms.

I think the biggest pain would be replacing the ball joint as I think you need to grind the flange off.. Certainly if I were doing the bushings I'd do everything.

Probably a PITA but I like trying out new things. Plus I got an excuse to buy a press haha
 

Trey Hardy

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Thanks, I just really wasn't sure if they looked good or bad.

I was leaning toward pressing new ones in just to try something new. Ofc it's a lot cheaper too, but I figure if it goes South I could always order new ones.

I want to to the 2" drop spindle so I'll be keeping the stock upper arms.

I think the biggest pain would be replacing the ball joint as I think you need to grind the flange off.. Certainly if I were doing the bushings I'd do everything.

Probably a PITA but I like trying out new things. Plus I got an excuse to buy a press haha
The stock uca are a pain to change the ball joints out if their original is still lean toward just getting new arms you’ll thank yourself later for not having to fight it and deal with the headaches or waiting for the parts if something goes south while trying to get the old bushings and ball joints changed out
 

Trey Hardy

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Thanks, I just really wasn't sure if they looked good or bad.

I was leaning toward pressing new ones in just to try something new. Ofc it's a lot cheaper too, but I figure if it goes South I could always order new ones.

I want to to the 2" drop spindle so I'll be keeping the stock upper arms.

I think the biggest pain would be replacing the ball joint as I think you need to grind the flange off.. Certainly if I were doing the bushings I'd do everything.

Probably a PITA but I like trying out new things. Plus I got an excuse to buy a press haha
If you got a hydraulic press that would make things a lot easier
But again for buying a press you could use that money to get all new arms at the same price if not cheaper and you would be able to have the job done in a couple hours with the right tools then you’ll just need a alignment.
Check out dirt king fabs locking alignment cam plates also you won’t have to worry about knocking your alignment out with then vs the stock ones that like to come loose over bad bumps
 
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LowCountryTim

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Looked at the price difference for the lowers.. No sense pressing new bushings in. The ball joint itself is like $80, plus the bushings.. would save like $30 each. Not worth the hassle.

Didn't look at the uppers.
 

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Purchased about a year ago for the right price. 250k on the odometer. Plan is to make some improvements on a budget while teaching my son (who just got his learner's permit) a few things, then letting him use it when he receives his full license.

Tentative list of items:

-replace charcoal canister (slow fill) - COMPLETE
-replace driver side motor mount - COMPLETE [also replaced the passenger side]
-replace dashboard
---get the gauge cluster refurb'd while it's out?
---upgrade factory radio to tesla-style
-replace interior carpet
-replace seat foam driver's seat
-new wheels/tires 285/45r22
-McGaughty's 2" spindle drop
---replace lower control arm bushings (worn)
---replace struts Bilstein 5100
-Belltech rear spring 3" drop
-new front/rear bumper covers


View attachment 429391
I would highly recommend a new timing chain/oil pump. I bought my Yukon XL at 242k and it ran well. Had one issue with the oil pressure which the sending unit did not correct and a month later the timing chain let go. It was well maintained, but the timing chain didn't care. New motor.
 
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LowCountryTim

LowCountryTim

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So this is the cowl and wipers after they were painted.. looks good. I stopped at 2 coats because I wanted to make sure it didn't get too glossy:

cowl_finished_resize.jpg

I also had to replace one of these because I broke when I took it apart (not due to negligence, they were just old and brittle):

washer_elbow_installed.jpg

Took a while, but I found replacements at McMaster (although I had to buy 10... the OEM is in the center):
washer_elbows.jpg
 
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LowCountryTim

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Did half a thing today.. Pro tip.. order the travel limiting bumpers when you order the oem struts. I couldn't see it before disassembly and it was toast. Ended up having to put the old one back in as nobody had them in stock. So I get to do this one a second time. Deferred doing the other side until I have them.

I don't so much mind the time to do it again, but man messing with those springs and a compressor stresses me out.

20240630_104925.jpg
 
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LowCountryTim

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In the words of the illustrious Ted Theodore Logan, "something strange is afoot..."

While driving, noticed the seatbelt indicator was flashing.. only.. I was wearing the seatbelt. Did a quick unbuckle-rebuckle. Still blinking. Meh, figured maybe a loose wire.

Then the speedometer went to zero and the tach rested at 1k. Other gauges/shift indicator working fine. Oh boy.

Got home, turned off, restarted. Same issue.

Checked the fuses. Did find a 15A for the trailer harness blown, but everything else was good.

Restarted. Everything works normally now. Good? I guess?

Any ideas as to what this was? Gremlin in the ECU?
 
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LowCountryTim

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Removed the strut I did last weekend and installed a new bumper.. And did the remaining strut. Glad it's over with.

Best to just order new bumpers if you're going to tackle this. You can't actually see them until you take it apart.

20240707_081326.jpg

20240707_074351.jpg
 
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