05Single
afraid of the dark
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2015
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Should have a rocket etched in the lens lol
Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"
- Thread starter Rocket Man
- Start date
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I've been looking at the rear wheels ever since I bought it and thought maybe the rear end was set up for wider wheels and tonight I found out it was. It will take up to 28 x 14's. It has 26 x 12's on now. The PO said he used to run 2" spacers in the back but the paint shop threw them in the garbage. Apparently along with the hood blanket, all the plugs and rubber bumper thingies and some other stuff. I ordered a pair of hubcentric 2" ones to bring the rear wheels out where they should be. It kind of reminds me of how a funny car looks back there right now. But damn it would look sweet with some 26 x 14's back there. The lips on those would be huuuge. 
05Single
afraid of the dark
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2015
- Posts
- 8,186
- Reaction score
- 11,456
But are they available in 14? Would they have to be custom made ?
I'm a billet noob.
I'm a billet noob.
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All billets are custom made. They're a 2-piece or 3-piece design. The center is the billet part and it's welded or bolted into a 1 or 2-piece hoop which is spun or stamped. This way they can make it with any bolt pattern, backspacing, width or diameter. intro just showed some 28 x 16's on their FB page with something about a new tire size on the horizon. Possibly there's no tire that will fit them yet? IDK. The PO had some 26 x 14's on the truck at one point and I wish he'd have left them on.
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Here it is with the 26 x 14's. He said he went to some 28's after this and then to the ones that are on it now. I might get something like these in the future if I can sell the ones on it now. Crazy since they're over $6000 a set. I'm pretty sure he was trading them among his buddies in Cali but still...
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I'm kind of liking this eyeball for the projectors...
iamdub
Full Access Member
Sick.
After seeing this pic, I now know I wanna swap out my chrome handles for color-matched, paint or swap mirrors, maybe debadge...
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BlackBear got back to me about my tune they're working on and said my IAT's are showing as 200-220 degrees and asked to see my intake. I sent them pics and they got back to me today. I didn't realize that on the NNBS the IAT sensor is incorporated into the MAF sensor and so the mystery is solved. My coolant overflow tank has been relocated due to my wheel tubs and that placed it right next to the MAF/IAT sensor, almost touching it in the position it was in. Which of course is giving it false readings. So I attempted to see what I could do as far as rotating the sensor away from the tank and I think I might be able to make it work, or maybe use some insulating product to separate them. In the process I found out the bracket someone had fabbed to hold the tank was missing a bolt and the tank wasn't solid anyway. The bracket was all kinds of wrong so I re-fabbed it but I ended up breaking the bolt that goes into a valve cover boss and gave up for the day. It started snowing on me and my hands were frozen. I'll figure something out. There isn't enough room to relocate the tank much further away but I'll see what I can do. I'll hook up my Tech 2 and monitor the IAT after I fix the problem and see if I can get the reading down. In the picture, I've rotated it so it's up. Before it was horizontal, touching the tank. I have header wrap I think I'll try.
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I decided to go look at live data and mess with the IAT sensor. It didn't take me but a minute to decide it was a bad sensor; it read 220 degrees when the truck was cold. I checked the wiring, then unplugged it and it went to -30 like it's supposed to. Went inside and ordered a new sensor. Then I decided to double-check that it was the sensor and the guide I was looking at said to test between pins 1-2 and it has resistance values for temperatures and the sensor showed 120 ohms which meant it should read 220 degrees which it did but it was inside my house and it was 68 not 220 lol. I pulled it out of the housing and there it is- a fried sensor. The thermistor is definitely bad. It's that little crispy black thing that directly connects to the 2 pins.
