Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

[swathdiver]

Check your messages, I sent some more info over. Most folks get their Tech2s within a week from overseas but you might consider that one from Arizona.

 

[Rocket Man]

Check your messages, I sent some more info over. Most folks get their Tech2s within a week from overseas but you might consider that one from Arizona.

I bought the one from the US, thank you very much for all your help!

 

[iamdub]

Well crap; this morning I had this great idea of pulling fuses one by one in the underhood fuse panel just to physically check them and see if I could clear any of the dash lights. I had bought a BlueDriver OBDII scanner on recommendations but it didn't read airbag codes, but it did read ABS/ TC/ Stabilitrac codes. I've been trying to buy a TechII with @swathdiver 's help but that's been a confusing mess so far, plus it will take a month to get here. I just figured I'd pull fuses and look at them even though I don't think that has anything to do with any issues and I'd checked them with a test light. Stupid idea I guess because now it doesn't drive right as in it doesn't shift right, seems like there's a loss of power (maybe because of the shifting), it threw Evap codes of P0449 and U01010 and just doesn't seem right. I pulled the negative cable and touched it to the positive post for a few and then left it off for 1/2 hour but no difference. Now I pulled both battery cables and will let it sit overnight. Any ideas? Seems like the PCM needs a reset or something but I don't have a TechII. Supposed to be moving forward not backwards.

When you first started it after playing with the fuses, did it not want to idle as smoothly as before? You may have just reset your PCM and it now has to relearn idle, settle on fuel trims, etc. A "U" code is a manufacturer code that usually is thrown by a loss of communication to a module. Was the key on when you were pulling and reinserting the fuses? Maybe having all the modules drain and repower up together would help.

 

[kbuskill]

Amy time you flash a new tune OR disconnect the battery it takes approximately 150 miles to let the ECM relearn all of the fuel trims ETC. As @iamdub mentioned.

 

[05alive]

Please don't ruin such a clean truck with those lights! Everything about the truck is oem+, either do clears or retros!

 

[Rocket Man]

When you first started it after playing with the fuses, did it not want to idle as smoothly as before? You may have just reset your PCM and it now has to relearn idle, settle on fuel trims, etc. A "U" code is a manufacturer code that usually is thrown by a loss of communication to a module. Was the key on when you were pulling and reinserting the fuses? Maybe having all the modules drain and repower up together would help.

Key was not on. Weird thing is, it doesn't seem to downshift into first even manually. It takes off slow, probably because it's in second. It's idling fine, but a bit high at around 800-900 rpm instead of 500. And I swear the gear indicator worked before but maybe not; it's not now.

Amy time you flash a new tune OR disconnect the battery it takes approximately 150 miles to let the ECM relearn all of the fuel trims ETC. As @iamdub mentioned.

The check engine light is weird though with those codes. I'll see what happens tomorrow when I reconnect the battery and maybe take it for a long drive. I've flashed tunes in my Denali before and it was ready instantly. Maybe a mile or two at most.

 

[Rocket Man]

Today I accomplished a few things besides what I messed up this morning. First I tried using the sticky mount for my magnetic phone holder but it fell right off since I had no smooth flat surface for it. I looked at where I wanted my phone and the best place was right in front of a small useless pocket so I fabbed up a block of cedar that fit perfectly in the 2 1/2" deep hole with enough friction that I had to tap it in until it was about 1/16" inset so when I screwed the mount into the wood, it would be flush. Then I fabbed up a piece of black textured plastic that I cut out of one of the hood hinge covers that I'm throwing away. It came out solid but the cheap mount wasn't that solid so I might end up buying the good Nato mount that I have in my Denali. Looks great though and now I have something solid to mount to.

 

[Rocket Man]

Then as I was doing that, USPS delivered my prop rod. It wasn't too bad to install but it did take a bit of figuring out how to make it work since it was for a Jeep. Came out allright. Now I don't have to grab a stick and lean it against the grill while I open the hood and then stick it in and hope I don't bump it while I'm under the hood. Don't say anything about chrome dammit. I know I know. It was hard enough to find one that I thought would work period.

 

[Rocket Man]

I painted the cowl and wipers last night and today so I installed those. The hinge covers were supposed to be delivered today but USPS sent them on through my city and off somewhere south.

 

[iamdub]

Key was not on. Weird thing is, it doesn't seem to downshift into first even manually. It takes off slow, probably because it's in second. It's idling fine, but a bit high at around 800-900 rpm instead of 500. And I swear the gear indicator worked before but maybe not; it's not now.

The check engine light is weird though with those codes. I'll see what happens tomorrow when I reconnect the battery and maybe take it for a long drive. I've flashed tunes in my Denali before and it was ready instantly. Maybe a mile or two at most.

Bruh... Sounds like your trans is in limp mode. Double check those fuses, particularly the TCM fuse(s) to see if any popped while you were reinserting them. Sometimes an old fuse can be fragile and break when pulling and/or pushing on it. You may wanna check them with a DVOM cuz sometimes they can look fine.