self made Wheel Alignment Tool

[exp500]

Building a new shop so no pics, everything packed in car hauler.
Maybe I wasn't clear in my description of 3/4x 1 1/2x 24 ft. Set these on 6x6 or 8x8 blocks F/R(4) as a thrust angle measurement from rear axle. Toe in is a tape across in front of tires to rect tube.
Different trucks have F/R axle width differences so I stack 3 foot lengths of rect tube or sq tube on the blocks to match. The front 3 footers are for toe mainly.
I like it because I can measure from the outer "Box" easily and accurately to 1/16. Two more 3/4x 1 1/2x 8 feet make the full box when needed. I can set it up in 10 minutes. The caster/camber is a 30-45 min test that I do at least twice to verify repeat angles L/R. I found that doing the math for adjustments was easier than retesting over and over.... so once I knew where I was going, the angle finder delivered the result with a final 2 tests to verify. Remember that wheels are turned x degrees R then 0 then L then 0.
A couple strong magnets and Plumb Bobs and nearly all frame/body dimensions can be checked in an hour or two.
One truck I have was 3/16 to 1/4 shorter on drivers side until it got offset CA bushings.
Hope this helps You.

 

[nonickatall]

I have something I made alot like this-

Hands-Free Camber/Caster Gauge - Tenhulzen Automotive | WheelAlignmentTools.com

Features Easy to measure camber/caster at the track or in your garage Works on wheels with lips, without lips, wheels with curb rash, ect. Camber is accurate to +/- 0.1 degrees The digital readout can be calibrated for non-level surfaces in a matter of seconds Caster is measured without...

wheelalignmenttools.com

I also use 3/4x1 1/2 rect tube for toe and tracking. Positioned lengthwise against F/R tires above sidewall bulge. ( having the rim clamps for caster/camber invaluable!)

Many do this, using the method of tying a string around the car.

For me, this method has three major disadvantages. The first is that it is very difficult to position the cord so, that it is truly parallel around the car. This is usually only possible with two people and with a lot of measuring.

And the second is, that the cord constantly interferes with adjusting the axis.

And the third is that you don't have a good reference to square the toe.

That's why I thought about my method. I have a few friends who do racing, who use the string method, but have a frame specially adapted to the car, that is attached to the car and provides the reference for the string.

This in turn has the disadvantage that you have a huge frame lying around and, secondly, that I cannot use it for a wide variety of cars. But I have a number of completely different cars and I would like to be able to do this for all cars.

 

[nonickatall]

Yesterday I set up my system for the first time and immediately encountered the first problems.

A fundamental error in reasoning that my system has, is that the track width cannot be measured well, because the axles of a vehicle that has independent wheel suspension at the front and a rigid axle at the rear vary greatly in width, when the vehicle is lifted on a carlift.

I spent a long time yesterday thinking about how to solve this problem, so that I can measure the track width precisely. Because this is a prerequisite for all further measurements.

After a long back and forth, I got a good idea and I built two small gallows on which I hang the plumb weights and I simply place them next to the car, when the car is on its wheels.

I then measure by slide the gallows so, that they have a defined distance from the stubborn point. Then i lift the car up, or if you don't have a lift, you push it back a bit and meassure on the ground at the plumb weights precisely the track width.

The rest would have worked, if my kingpin gauge had fit to my car. But unfortunately the car has a name hole in the rim which is too small. I have to build something for that today.

But other than that, I am confident that my system will work well. I calculated yesterday again, that I can work with a very small measurement error.

When I'm finished I will deliver good pictures and describe how I did it.

 

[89Suburban]

@iamdub check this out.

 

[nonickatall]

So today I was finally able to adjust my axle on the first vehicle, a Chrysler LeBaron convertible. After some difficulties, you always have to collect experience first, it worked exactly, as I had imagined.

I will pack the work steps into individual posts, so that the pictures are easier to understand.

1. Measure track width
First I used the small gallows with plumb weights, which I spontaneously built from material I had left, in front of the axles and measured to the wheel hub. I simply created an equal distance, because the only thing I was interested in, as a result of the measurement, was the difference in track width between the front and rear axles. Then I picked up the car and was able to comfortably read the track width on the floor with millimeter precision.

 

[nonickatall]

Then measured the caster and camber, front and rear, with the King pin gauge.

I noticed that my rear camber is different by +3.5° and -3.5°. I thought: That propably is result of a crooked floor, so I took a laser measuring device and measured my floor first. Indeed, on the rear wheels 5cm crooked, which led to the 3.5°. So tires relined and measured again. Rear as it should be and front 2 and -2.5° deviation, which is quite a lot. I then set the camber and then assembled my construction.

 

[nonickatall]

I then installed all the holders, tightened the line and added the difference previously determined by measuring the track width.

So my line was absolutely parallel. I could see that nicely, because the cord on the rear wheels lay with millimeter precision, through the star axle. And at the front, I had a deviation of 1.7° and 2° from the Chrysler target values.

I then set the track and was able to set it with an accuracy of 0.1° using the two scales.

I think that in a workshop, with an electronic measuring stand, only someone can do it who know what to do and who is motivated, which is rather the exception nowadays, at least in Germany.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to drive the car yet, because it was already too late and I still have to do something on the engine tomorrow.

 

[nonickatall]

Next Project is my Escalade, an Escalade from a friend and a tahoe from another friend..

I will report

 

[exp500]

nonicktall- Your solutions are very well thought out. I never liked the "old string way".​

Simple and effective, nicely done.

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub check this out.

I've been following



Makes me feel like a hackjob with my alignment system consisting of two big jack stands, string and a millimeter ruler. But, 30K miles later, my tire wear doesn't say "hackjob".