self made Wheel Alignment Tool

[89Suburban]

FWIW, if you know for sure your toe is alignment is properly set, and you need to make any camber/caster adjustments, you can make some reference measurements from these points. In my case, the front and rear measurements were exactly half an inch apart. I adjusted my castor out 1 degree, then readjusted the toe to a half inch apart.

I used the corner of the front UCA bracket where it meets the frame, and right behind the brake line there is a divot formed into the frame where the tape end settles into nicely.

 

[nonickatall]

Not bad, but i think that is probably very difficult to measure exactly, because of three points.

First the toe must be allignet in relation to the rear axle. Because no rear axle is 100% in line.

Second, the distance of the measurement at the rotor is very short, so you can't measure the toe good.

And third point. To measure everything exact, the car must stand on the axle. If the car is not on its wheels, the camber and caster is misleading. If you put a lift in the middle under the wishbone, the force on the wishbone is not the same as when the force last on the wheels. That leads into wrong measurement, i am afraid.

But a goot a fast DIY method to do it l, after install new wishbone or tie rods.

My method seamed to work very good.
Before, i had a tension if the wheels where fully turned. And in faster curves like leaving the autobahn, i had squeaking tires in left curves.
As well the Escalade seamed to have no good straight running.

All that is now perfect. And my fuel consumption lowered appx. 10%.

 

[BoatyMcBoatface]

I just did an alignment on the front end using the string method. Done it plenty of times on a number of vehicles. I just replaced the torsion bar keys, leveled it and new idler arm and mount because they were shot.I do have a set of first gen quick trick alignment bars. I measure camber and caster using a bubble gauge. And I use thin plastic cutting boards to make a set of slip plates with some oil between them. I use a big foam pad with a small scooter tire to center and lock the wheel straight. I did find a steering wheel lock on Amazon for 25 bucks to my surprise. The rear axle is a perfect reference point. Yes it takes a while to measure things up but once you are parallel in the box you're good to go. I check camber and caster first then set up my box. I have a 2500 Yukon and the center of the axle is difficult to reference to the front but I use the edge of the center hole on the rim. I also use a machinist 6 inch scale for these measurements. I rough in the toe then attach the quick trick bars and then fine tune to 1/16 toe in and lock it down. I have a friend who has a shop with an alignment rack and I usually have him set the camber or caster to make life easy but I know they measured good so I do the toe myself. I've done it several times on all my vehicles and used to have him double check but each time I got better he told me to save my money. A suspension on these trucks is sloppy and settling it between measurements yields better results. An alignment machine is just a fast way to do what takes me about 2 hours. I also bubble balance all my tires and never had an issue. (Mind you I don't drive this at 100 mph but not one shake or shimmy on highway + speeds)These machines help the mechanic get the job done quicker and with better repeatability. If you take your time you can do it and have the same results. The only thing I don't measure is thrust angle. As long as you haven't been in an accident that bent something you should be good. You can measure that dropping points from the rear axle to front reference points but again so far I've been lucky. Of course any major suspension replacement I will get it close but take it to the shop to make sure.