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TylerHagerdorn
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I've used lots of that. That's not going to fix a leaking injector. It's a cleaner not a repair
Serious Hard Starting Issues Continue...HELP!
- Thread starter TylerHagerdorn
- Start date
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TylerHagerdorn
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A circuit code does not mean the sensor is bad. Rule number one, DONT throw parts at it. You don't just replace something because the engine light says the part name. The computer can and will throw a code if something else related in the same system is faulty. That's why you diagnose and test things. You'd be silly to spend 500$ on a sensor and it not fix the issue just because the light says the name of the sensor.
Scottydoggs
Full Access Member
the point is, fix that!!!! and just so you know. a circuit code means its got no ******* power, so its not working...a ddddddduuuurrrrrrrr. like i said. problem lies between the seat and wheel. you dont give a **** what ppl suggest and keep doing your own thing. and getting no where. best of luck to your ignorant ass.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
This thread may have become too toxic to salvage, but in case it survives... Here are my last thoughts.
You mentioned fuel dumping out the exhaust. To me, that would point to 1) injector(s) hanging open, dumping fuel and preventing combustion from happening or 2) No spark, leading to raw fuel going out the exhaust.
Also... 3) Maybe the fuel composition DOES have something to do with your issue. (I know nothing about that part and how the system uses the information it sends.)
It is tricky enough sometimes, for a mechanic to diagnose with hands-on access to the truck.
It is even more difficult to fix things through text posts and over the internet.
If your plan is to rely on remote assistance from forum members trying to help on their own time, rather than pay a shop, it might be helpful to have access to more information.
Having access to a Tech 2 or other bi-directional scan tool could give you the detailed information that leads to a solution.
Numbers from live data, photos of different scan tool readings might have helped you a while ago.
If you plan on staying with older GM vehicles, I really think you could save yourself a lot of troubles and money, if you could find a way to buy or borrow a GM Tech 2 from a friend.
Unfortunately, a number of bridges may have been burned already and the pool of forum members to help you has shrunk.
You mentioned fuel dumping out the exhaust. To me, that would point to 1) injector(s) hanging open, dumping fuel and preventing combustion from happening or 2) No spark, leading to raw fuel going out the exhaust.
Also... 3) Maybe the fuel composition DOES have something to do with your issue. (I know nothing about that part and how the system uses the information it sends.)
It is tricky enough sometimes, for a mechanic to diagnose with hands-on access to the truck.
It is even more difficult to fix things through text posts and over the internet.
If your plan is to rely on remote assistance from forum members trying to help on their own time, rather than pay a shop, it might be helpful to have access to more information.
Having access to a Tech 2 or other bi-directional scan tool could give you the detailed information that leads to a solution.
Numbers from live data, photos of different scan tool readings might have helped you a while ago.
If you plan on staying with older GM vehicles, I really think you could save yourself a lot of troubles and money, if you could find a way to buy or borrow a GM Tech 2 from a friend.
Unfortunately, a number of bridges may have been burned already and the pool of forum members to help you has shrunk.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Still been following this and have a few last thoughts.
1. In a fluid packed system with a low volume like your fuel system it wouldn’t take much of a leak to drop the pressure. I doubt enough fuel leaks from the injectors to flood the engine. Plus if a double cycle of the key results in it starting where did that flooded condition go?
2. My bet is the pcm believes a situation to be true that is not and is adding unneeded fuel at startup. Either it is miscalculating the alcohol content or temperature.
Good luck.
1. In a fluid packed system with a low volume like your fuel system it wouldn’t take much of a leak to drop the pressure. I doubt enough fuel leaks from the injectors to flood the engine. Plus if a double cycle of the key results in it starting where did that flooded condition go?
2. My bet is the pcm believes a situation to be true that is not and is adding unneeded fuel at startup. Either it is miscalculating the alcohol content or temperature.
Good luck.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Just read it from the beginning to catch up.
First off, @TylerHagerdorn, you gotta chill a bit. I understand this is a very frustrating situation. We've all been there. I also understand how frustrating it is to have to repeat yourself. There's a lot of activity on this forum and we can't possibly remember everyone's latest update on their project nor are we much inclined to research every post or thread a member made to collect the info we'd need to try to help.
Cool off and be patient with us just as we're being patient with you. Help us help you.
From what I gather in this thread, I'm banking on something flooding the engine. That's not to say actually filling the cylinders with fuel. Holding the pedal to the floor (or at least beyond a certain amount, like 80% or so) when cranking is a factory function called "Clear Flood Mode". It stops the injectors from firing and I think it kills spark as well. The system losing pressure absolutely indicates a leak. If it's not leaking externally, then it has to be leaking back into the tank or into the engine. Based on the hard start problem, I'd say it's leaking into the engine. The injectors are what controls what goes into the engine so I'd be suspecting leaking injector(s).
My first step would be to see what all the sensors are telling the engine via a scanner that shows live data. This was OBD1, but I had a '91 Blazer that kept running rich and fouling O2 sensors. It ran so rich that it clogged the O2 sensor enough that the sensor couldn't "smell" how rich the exhaust actually was, so it wouldn't throw the "rich exhaust" code any more. After it clogged the cat, I finally had the sense to plug in a scanner and found that the ECM was constantly trying to warm up the engine because it saw that the coolant temperature was WAY below zero (summer in south Louisiana). Replacing the coolant temp sensor fixed everything. I think that 4.3 had two temp sensors- one for the ECM and one for the gauge. The LS has one sensor, so, your gauge would be reading low if it was a sensor issue. Unless, like many GMT800 clusters, your temp gauge is broken or otherwise inaccurate and you haven't mentioned it. Even still, adding extra fuel for warming up happens after you start it. So, I don't think it's a coolant temp sensor fault, but there are other sensors and it'd be a quick and easy starting point.
I don't know if you can simply hang the rail with the injectors stuck into it. It seems to me that the fuel pressure could push the injectors out. Maybe zip-tie or wire tie them to the rail? I'm picturing hanging the rail as high as the hose and injector harness will allow. Maybe lay some 1x2s or similar across the intake manifold and tie the rails to it? Maybe slip cardboard or long trays (like drywall mud trays) underneath the injectors. Be sure to unplug the coil packs.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
On a nbs you can hang the rails. The injectors are clipped to the rails. I successfully did this on my 03.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Interesting! Never paid attention to that detail. I'll have to look at mine.
Just take it to someone that knows what they are doing. I tried helping in the last post and you were being nice, in this one you seem to have gone off the deep end. You are cutting down people's suggestions like you are smarter than them, yet you are on here asking strangers how to fix your vehicle.
There are no such thing as whiches flying around your truck causing these issues, you obviously don't have the ability to fix it yourself, and it sounds like it is driving you nuts. Either sell the thing, or pay someone that knows what they are doing to fix it. You are unqualified to figure it out it seems.
There are no such thing as whiches flying around your truck causing these issues, you obviously don't have the ability to fix it yourself, and it sounds like it is driving you nuts. Either sell the thing, or pay someone that knows what they are doing to fix it. You are unqualified to figure it out it seems.
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TylerHagerdorn
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How about instead of being an utter *****, you go read the entire thread like a normal person would. And while you're at it, go read my others. I've replaced everything that people have suggested with OEM stuff. I'm not the problem. But thanks though, that's real mature of you to talk down on someone. You must know everything though so good luck to you. I'm not the one going around threads calling people names.
