Side post terminal issues

[LordWayback]

the alternator is not the problem, and that adapter/delete plug would most likely not work for the problem i have. What it will do is throw a "service charging system" while idling which is the rvc module going bad according to research I have done, alternator works fine and I even swapped in a working spare with same results.
wish I had known about the module though I could use it on my 12 but I would need to get a another 4 pin alternator, doesn't work with a 2 pin alternators because they are digital and there is no analog excite wire.

The adapter deletion plug only works for mechman alternators but it also deletes a lot of the RVC system there’s also a fused wire going to the alternator that’ll cause it this video is for a Cadillac CTS but a similar thing happens on all 2005 GM vehicles with the rvc sometimes the charging system works fine besides the message and that fuse is the cause

 

[Doubeleive]

The adapter deletion plug only works for mechman alternators but it also deletes a lot of the RVC system there’s also a fused wire going to the alternator that’ll cause it this video is for a Cadillac CTS but a similar thing happens on all 2005 GM vehicles with the rvc sometimes the charging system works fine besides the message and that fuse is the cause

ya it's not a fuse pretty sure it's just the module it works fine 99% of the time just decides to throw message once in a while at idle but is still making plenty of voltage, code says module problem. could be a bad wire somewhere I have looked a couple times but can't find anything suspicious

 

[MassHoe04]

Could also change over the ring connector to the "normal" kind on the ends of the cables... Or get new cables... Ooops, here we are spending other peoples' money!

 

[Fless]

You could go with something like this for the post terminal.

 

[Rocket Man]

I got an Optima Red Top from NAPA three years ago and very happy with it.
It was only 18 months old when I had to sell the Jeep I had originally installed this in, so I got top-post adapter clamps. Maybe not ideal setup, but the battery has been 100% solid for three years so far, even in the coldest weather.

It is a coiled AGM battery.
1000 cranking amps & 800 Cold Cranking Amps

It was stamped 9/20. I got it in 10/20.

View attachment 398059
Here is with the adapter clamps in my 04 Tahoe...
View attachment 398061


Lesson learned: DO NOT try to over-tighten the side connection bolts! The threaded holes on the side are designed to strip out rather than strip the threads on the cable bolts. The ones on the posts you can get really tight, just the other ones should not go to town on tightening...

The side post bolts are supposed to be softer than the terminal, I’ve stripped several bolts but never the terminal on the battery. Maybe it had a regular bolt in it that got over tightened?

 

[LordWayback]

You could go with something like this for the post terminal.

View attachment 398107

I got these

 

[Doubeleive]

I got theseView attachment 398194

this is what I used for my 2nd battery, just get that wing nut nice and snug mine only came loose a little once

 

[MassHoe04]

The side post bolts are supposed to be softer than the terminal, I’ve stripped several bolts but never the terminal on the battery. Maybe it had a regular bolt in it that got over tightened?

The side-to-top adapter clamps were from O'Reilly. Can't recall the brand, but it is entirely possible the quality control on the molded lead was not 100%... Could have been a miscast before the bolt holes were threaded. I recall wanting to make them good and tight so I have no issues.

I gave one too many cranks on the wrench and the bolt spun around.

That was the time where I had to get to work on a weekend morning and would not be able to get to the parts store...
I said F-it, and used the old woodworking "stick a couple of toothpicks in the threaded hole to give the bolt some bite" trick.

It worked! It held long enough for me to forget I did that MacGyver repair and I got stuck with a no-crank/no-start with no tools in the truck.

Tightened as best I could by hand and got home. Replaced the clamp the next day and made sure to tighten, but not over tighten the bolts. No issues since then. Lesson learned!

 

[LordWayback]

ya it's not a fuse pretty sure it's just the module it works fine 99% of the time just decides to throw message once in a while at idle but is still making plenty of voltage, code says module problem. could be a bad wire somewhere I have looked a couple times but can't find anything suspicious

No corrosion?

 

[Sam Harris]

I got an Optima Red Top from NAPA three years ago and very happy with it.
It was only 18 months old when I had to sell the Jeep I had originally installed this in, so I got top-post adapter clamps. Maybe not ideal setup, but the battery has been 100% solid for three years so far, even in the coldest weather.

It is a coiled AGM battery.
1000 cranking amps & 800 Cold Cranking Amps

It was stamped 9/20. I got it in 10/20.

View attachment 398059
Here is with the adapter clamps in my 04 Tahoe...
View attachment 398061


Lesson learned: DO NOT try to over-tighten the side connection bolts! The threaded holes on the side are designed to strip out rather than strip the threads on the cable bolts. The ones on the posts you can get really tight, just the other ones should not go to town on tightening...

Same. Though, I’m just using the side terminals. I had a red top in my rig when I bought it in 2018. Worked great. Before my drive / move from Co. to Tx., my OEM alternator crapped out, so I replaced the still fully functional Red Top (2017 date stamp) with a new Red Top, just to ensure no issues. The previous one was approximately 5 years old at that point. I’ve been very happy with Red Tops in all my vehicles for years.