solid front axle anyone done this?

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odie301

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my stock front axle is getting pretty sloppy where they cv shafts meet the diff housing. was thinking that a solid axle swap would be a great fix..plus it would give me a lift (which i want anyway).

anyone done this on our tahoes or suburbans or even a 1/2 ton truck? I was looking for maybe a dana 44 w/ lock out hubs. was thinking one from a jeep wagoneer would be good they are already 6x5.5 bolt pattern and are a spring under axle..but not sure what my axle width needs to be. the other problem i am coming up with is how to deal with the abs? the wagoneer axle already has disc brakes, just no sensors or anything for abs or if they do i havent seen one yet.

just looking to see if anyone has done this type of thing before? i wouldn't mind going to an all coil over set up if it doesnt cost much more to install. (i get confused with all the bars that need to be installed, but it might be easier than i think).

also wondering what to do with the t case, i have auto trac but never use the auto function..so not sure if it would still work or not..i am not coming up with reasons y it wouldn't work as long as i didn't hit auto. also with the front diff actuator, but i thought i could just tie it up on the frame so the electronics think it is working.

the other part to the equation is lifting the rear to match..thinking one would need longer control arms(if that is the right term for them) and then either longer coil springs or spacers of some sort?

ok long enough post..lets hear what you all think? by the way not looking to put on mega big tires...maybe 33's or 35's...just bought new 265/65/r17 for my factory wheels so would try to use them until they where out.
 

ryangt

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i dont want to leave this unanswered. Short answer.. NO.

moving on to hypothetical:

The proper application of cash will get you whatever you can imagine, done to your ride.

Sloppy is a well.... sloppy term for trying to describe what you are talking about. At best, it would be a 1 off, 100% custom swap that would cost you more than the vehicle was ever worth.

going indi front end is not really called for, there is nothing wrong with the 4x4 system of tahoe, yukons, trust me on this as im fairly confident that i have put my 04 yukon thru some of the harshest territory that a Yukon has ever seen. Harsh on every part of the vehicle from corrugated roads, to steep rock outcrops, to running over kangaroos and ill tell you this much, i have never had this rig skip a beat.

If you are having "slop" issues, try re-torqing the axles to factory specs, and if that doesnt work, have a go at redefining "sloppy" for us so we can sort of figure out a better direction to point you.

Lots of luck, but honestly, GM knew what they were doing with this 4wd setup. If you do go forward, i want pics.
 

RumorsOFsurF

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I'm sure a straight axle would be better in off road use, but your rig will drive like shit compared to the stock setup.

Also, a Wagoneer axle will be FAR too narrow for your application. If I recall correctly, a Wagoneer axle is around 60"-62" wide, which is close to the width of a Wrangler. I know this because I was going to swap a set in to my '88 Wrangler. A 70's full size Ford axle would probably suit you better, but that would require re-drilling for the 6 lug bolt pattern, not to mention a complete custom suspension, since they were coil sprung on the 1/2 tons.
 

Luke

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I'm sure a straight axle would be better in off road use, but your rig will drive like shit compared to the stock setup.

Also, a Wagoneer axle will be FAR too narrow for your application. If I recall correctly, a Wagoneer axle is around 60"-62" wide, which is close to the width of a Wrangler. I know this because I was going to swap a set in to my '88 Wrangler. A 70's full size Ford axle would probably suit you better, but that would require re-drilling for the 6 lug bolt pattern, not to mention a complete custom suspension, since they were coil sprung on the 1/2 tons.

Incorrect. It will most likely ride a little rougher than stock but its not going to "drive like shit". Theres a lot of guys who have done the swap in 1/2 ton trucks. Which is the same as a tahoe in front.

A late 70s Ford axle would be what he wants. And you can put 6 lug Chevy outers on it, you dont have to redrill anything. And you can do leaf sprung with an F250 axle, or do coils or coil overs, whatever he wanted.
 

slocaddy

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there are so many kits for these trucks its not funny. ive owned two solid axle conversions one a 92 chevy sport (i did it ) and another 03 hd chevy (someone else started i finished the little things) they were both leaf sprung both were dana 60s. deff cool when its done wont belive the money you have in it when your done. thers so much to cover more than im going to type. good luck with whatever you do. personaly on your tahoe i would do coilspring or coil over since thats what the back is
 

rabbiporkchop

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my stock front axle is getting pretty sloppy where they cv shafts meet the diff housing. was thinking that a solid axle swap would be a great fix..plus it would give me a lift (which i want anyway).

anyone done this on our tahoes or suburbans or even a 1/2 ton truck? I was looking for maybe a dana 44 w/ lock out hubs. was thinking one from a jeep wagoneer would be good they are already 6x5.5 bolt pattern and are a spring under axle..but not sure what my axle width needs to be. the other problem i am coming up with is how to deal with the abs? the wagoneer axle already has disc brakes, just no sensors or anything for abs or if they do i havent seen one yet.

just looking to see if anyone has done this type of thing before? i wouldn't mind going to an all coil over set up if it doesnt cost much more to install. (i get confused with all the bars that need to be installed, but it might be easier than i think).

also wondering what to do with the t case, i have auto trac but never use the auto function..so not sure if it would still work or not..i am not coming up with reasons y it wouldn't work as long as i didn't hit auto. also with the front diff actuator, but i thought i could just tie it up on the frame so the electronics think it is working.

the other part to the equation is lifting the rear to match..thinking one would need longer control arms(if that is the right term for them) and then either longer coil springs or spacers of some sort?

ok long enough post..lets hear what you all think? by the way not looking to put on mega big tires...maybe 33's or 35's...just bought new 265/65/r17 for my factory wheels so would try to use them until they where out.

Check out my photo album
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/album.php?albumid=1562
the cheapest way to do it would be to find a donor 88-91 k5 or suburban for the t-case and axle

---------- Post added at 12:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:55 PM ----------

I'm sure a straight axle would be better in off road use, but your rig will drive like shit compared to the stock setup.

Also, a Wagoneer axle will be FAR too narrow for your application. If I recall correctly, a Wagoneer axle is around 60"-62" wide, which is close to the width of a Wrangler. I know this because I was going to swap a set in to my '88 Wrangler. A 70's full size Ford axle would probably suit you better, but that would require re-drilling for the 6 lug bolt pattern, not to mention a complete custom suspension, since they were coil sprung on the 1/2 tons.
This will only be true if proper geometry is not taken into consideration.
My 95 Tahoe rides nicer than my old K5 Blazer, plus I have no swaybar, no panhard rod, and no steering stabilizer, but my alignment is dialed in.
 

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