SOLVED - Big 3 upgrade, EVERY warning light on immediately after.
- Thread starter Tyrant
- Start date
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Excuse my language, but ******** it.
ONE plug.
About 1/8" from fully seated.
Why in God's name is CANBUS communication wired in SERIES and not parallel...?
Each module acts as a gateway for the modules downstream of it. I have no idea who concocted this absolutely insane idea, but I finally figured it out.
Thank you guys, for all of your help!
Now I just need to tackle an evap system clog that's preventing me from filling the tank completely, and replace the cracked windshield. The beast is out of limp mode and everything works again.
ONE plug.
About 1/8" from fully seated.
Why in God's name is CANBUS communication wired in SERIES and not parallel...?
Each module acts as a gateway for the modules downstream of it. I have no idea who concocted this absolutely insane idea, but I finally figured it out.
Thank you guys, for all of your help!
Now I just need to tackle an evap system clog that's preventing me from filling the tank completely, and replace the cracked windshield. The beast is out of limp mode and everything works again.
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mattbta
Full Access Member
So that’s an aftermarket Bluetooth module that a connector wasn’t fully seated? Dang, good catch. Expletives deserved! Hahahah
I assumed that it was bluetooth only, but when I searched for it by name it mentioned the Onstar system as well. I never use Onstar, so it didn't occur to me to verify that it was working... After printing out dozens of pages from the OE wiring diagram, I noticed one that listed the high speed canbus modules in series and realized that Onstar was the last item in the series that wasn't giving me trouble.
When I upgraded my speakers and removed the Bose amp, I swapped the factory subwoofer for a 10" box that I tucked under the console. That little module was in the way and I shoehorned it to the side in order to make the box fit snuggly. In the end, I guess I bumped it just enough to dislodge one of the connectors.
We hit single digit temps this week and this was my last-ditch effort before buying another car and parking this until winter ended. I'm glad that it's over, but I have a major bone to pick with whoever engineered this...
When I upgraded my speakers and removed the Bose amp, I swapped the factory subwoofer for a 10" box that I tucked under the console. That little module was in the way and I shoehorned it to the side in order to make the box fit snuggly. In the end, I guess I bumped it just enough to dislodge one of the connectors.
We hit single digit temps this week and this was my last-ditch effort before buying another car and parking this until winter ended. I'm glad that it's over, but I have a major bone to pick with whoever engineered this...
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Glad you found it!
Sooooo, I gotta be a smartass here. If you had not left the connection loose you would not have been b****itchin' about "series and not parallel". So, now you blame the engineer.
LMFAOAD!!!!!!!! Glad you figured it out. @Just Fishing nailed it.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Glad you got it figured out! But, how did doing the Big 3 cause this loose connection?
Also, the main benefit of a CANbus system is to greatly reduce circuits (wires). Connecting modules in series is part of this purpose.
You're not wrong, technically, but had they wired the bus in parallel, you could unplug any module without tanking the entire system downstream of it.
If anything, it should trigger an error code for the module in question, rather than everything downstream instead...
If anything, it should trigger an error code for the module in question, rather than everything downstream instead...
I broke one of the cardinal rules of upgrades (tackling 2 projects at once) - the Suburban had 3 blown speakers when I bought it and I ran a fused 00 wire through the firewall to power 2 amplifiers in the vehicle.
When I replaced the factory sub with a 10" sealed model (in the factory location), I had to tuck that module up and out of the way for clearance. As best I can tell, I jostled it enough to cause the issues.
I fused every wire at every transition, ran quality wire (no aluminum), properly crimped everything, used adhesive lined shrink tubing, and it has all held out wonderfully apart from this hiccup.
It's funny... I painstakingly planned every inch of the project in advance, but I didn't even consider something like this because I didn't technically touch the Onstar/bluetooth stuff.
If it hadn't been for a random post on a Corvette forum, I'd have never even thought to check the Onstar Module. It was a hail mary diagnostic that happened to save my butt.
CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
So it WAS something you dicked with?! Shocker…
