Sound deadening/ general system build

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Rocket Man

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CLD tiles, CCF, and MLV isnt crazy expensive, especially not compared to some of the mods you've done! It can get very time consuming though.

If you can source MLV locally you can save a lot of dough. I work in construction and came up with a big roll of MLV for free. Its heavy so shipping kills ya.

I did CLD,CCF,MLV on the floor and back wall of my 94 and CLD,CCF on the doors and roof. Huge difference in that little truck. I need to do a little better on the doors, but otherwise now all I can really hear is how leaky all the seals are on the freeway and air whooshing over the cab.
How do you attach MLV? The stuff I see isn’t self adhesive.
 

TheAutumnWind

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How do you attach MLV? The stuff I see isn’t self adhesive.

The stuff I got is self adhesive, but some spray adhesive works, or self adhesive velcro, and contact cement to adhere pieces of MLV to itself. The MLV being "limp" is actually part of how it works effectively. So you use a foam to decouple it. Some people just throw it down on the floor pan and dont attach it at all or very little. Vertical surfaces obviously need some sort of attachment to keep it from falling.

Sound deadener showdown is like the bible of DIY auto sound deadening.
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to

I have a completely stock 1994 base stereo in my 94 truck, and it was worth it for me as it is a much nicer place to be now. Of course that thing had vinyl floors with basically nothing under them, a roof with no deadening and an uncarpeted back wall. It was a tin can to start.

I posted about the project on another forum: https://www.gmt400.com/threads/sound-deadening-rcsb.48816/
 
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Rayyy

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Nicely done. I just went through the same process... Noico butyl sound deadening on the inner metal walls inside the doors, Boom Mat butyl spray (two layers) on the outer metal walls inside the doors, Siless Liner padding foam on the interior of the door panels, foam speaker rings and speaker baffles (cut out - credit to Rocket Man for the tip). I also covered a good portion of each wall of the rear panel woofer box with Noico.

I didn’t think my rear view mirror would be vibrating as much as it does, night and day difference.

6EFF95C6-3F88-44E5-A540-2980048B0F49.jpeg 26605A19-A8D5-4B9A-973A-F0C90560708A.jpeg 55D61040-D969-45E3-BD19-D49F7FBB01C5.jpeg 2219A1F8-B134-43BD-BAC7-672206F41116.jpeg
 

Rayyy

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druiddonn

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Nicely done. I just went through the same process... Noico butyl sound deadening on the inner metal walls inside the doors, Boom Mat butyl spray (two layers) on the outer metal walls inside the doors, Siless Liner padding foam on the interior of the door panels, foam speaker rings and speaker baffles (cut out - credit to Rocket Man for the tip). I also covered a good portion of each wall of the rear panel woofer box with Noico.

I didn’t think my rear view mirror would be vibrating as much as it does, night and day difference.

View attachment 253322 View attachment 253324 View attachment 253326 View attachment 253327
Well you did a much more thorough job than I did
 
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druiddonn

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Btw there is a company which makes speaker pods to fit 6.5” speakers onto the D-pillars, but they’re a bit pricey at $110

https://www.customspeakerpods.com/product-page/d-pillar-speaker-pod-for-6-5-00-06-gmfst

If you go this route, might be a good idea to cut out a portion of your actual D-pillar to increase the enclosure size for the speakers.

View attachment 253330
Yeah those are way out of my budget and as much as I like an aftermarket stereo I like it to look more or less Factory
 
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druiddonn

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Here's a picture of how I mounted a 9 inch touch screen without modifying the interior bezel it's not for off-road use it would need a few more nuts of course I need to do more plastic welding on all the little tabs but I'm going to wait until installing the subwoofers

20200724_193959.jpg 20200723_225942.jpg
 

Rayyy

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Stopping wires from rattling is important indeed, yet dampening metal panels to prevent reverberating, as well as increasing the density of the baffle between the speaker enclosure and interior of the car to reduce cancellation waves are what boost bass and clarity.
 
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druiddonn

druiddonn

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Stopping wires from rattling is important indeed, yet dampening metal panels to prevent reverberating, as well as increasing the density of the baffle between the speaker enclosure and interior of the car to reduce cancellation waves are what boost bass and clarity.

Unfortunately I didn't purchase as much CCF as I should have so I need to use it fairly sparingly I'm considering that my subwoofer box is just a eBay pre-manufactured type I'm wondering what to do about it I'll probably crack the interior open tomorrow and get the amplifier mounted apparently the 2002 Factory location is exactly where I was planning on mounting mine luckily I have a 2004 so I hope that spots open forward the wheel well driver side

1595660564043899010151503418321.jpg 20200714_130936.jpg
 

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