Spark Plug Gap Issue

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bill9000

bill9000

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Ideally, you'd use a feeler gauge vs. the circular thing at the auto parts store

To close the gap, lightly tap the plug on some hard plastic like a cutting board

To open it this is where the auto parts store bit comes in handy. Slide the hole over the ground and stress it open a bit like a bottle opener. In both situations, the important bits of the electrodes are untouched. That's your goal. There's a small bead of platinium/iridium/whatever you're using on the ground, and the center pin. Leave those alone except for gently checking the gap.

To open the gap, use the hole in this
s-l225.jpg

To check the gap, use a feeler gauge
j00mm9_rbg_2.jpg


Thank you! I will do it like that!
 

swathdiver

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That just is so wild to me when I hear someone say that, I had seen some with close to 200, but I figure even if the engine somehow made it that long, theres all the other stuff that HAS to wear out like injectors, water pumps, all that kinda stuff. And I just won't want to be broken down, this thing already lost a fuel pump and stranded my wife.

My goal has always been never to keep anything past 100k, but money's just an issue now for the 4wd dept. since I bought a brand new Camaro.


But, that said... so you are saying it can get past 150, and I've had a few people tell me that before, but nobody has been able to give me any kind of reason why, people say "they just do" - which doesn't explain anything to me... the way I see it, wear is wear and moving parts HAVE to wear out.

I'm hoping someone has some mechanical explanation to back up saying they can go for that long.

(I know emotion/tone is hard to read into text, so I will throw in that I'm genuinely asking, not trying to sound like a smartass at all)


** side note, this Yukon is VERY clean body-interior etc. but at 152k, it literally barely runs, it idles really low and has ZERO power, sounds like it has no compression... can barely get up into my driveway (which supports my thinking that 150k its at the end of its life) So I'd love to hear like a technical reason why it can still be ok.

(I also suppose you mean the engine can make it that distance, but thats not inclusive of things like injectors, starter, etc?)

thanks!!! I appreciate the help.


Some of my plugs were slightly off and I adjsuted them with pliers and tapping and verified with my feeler gauges.

Yes, for the most part it's the block and heads that lasts the longest. Fans, pumps and accessories wear out over time and need replacing. Those who stick with AC Delco OE (Original Equipment) and Professional series parts experience some of the best longevity over aftermarket parts.

These LS engines do have their quirks and annoyances, like the aformentioned O-ring and they are harder on camshaft bearings compared with the SBCs.

One thing I learned by working on computerized cars thirty plus years ago was the importance of a scan tool. It's nearly impossible to properly diagnose the engines and the whole vehicle now really without one.

So why do the blocks last longer? Better materials and tighter tolerances and better designs. The timing chains are certified by GM for 200,000 miles of operation. But then that $3 o-ring can take out a motor if not caught early.
 
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bill9000

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Some of my plugs were slightly off and I adjsuted them with pliers and tapping and verified with my feeler gauges.

Yes, for the most part it's the block and heads that lasts the longest. Fans, pumps and accessories wear out over time and need replacing. Those who stick with AC Delco OE (Original Equipment) and Professional series parts experience some of the best longevity over aftermarket parts.

These LS engines do have their quirks and annoyances, like the aformentioned O-ring and they are harder on camshaft bearings compared with the SBCs.

One thing I learned by working on computerized cars thirty plus years ago was the importance of a scan tool. It's nearly impossible to properly diagnose the engines and the whole vehicle now really without one.

Makes sense on the accessories.

I hate computer controlled vehicles for that very reason, they can quit going down the road and you have no idea why. I miss the carb days. I have been very temped to buy a mid 70's chevy truck for that reason, I'd trust it a lot more than this thing with 150k. :/

Thanks for the help! I'll get the plugs done like that and see if it runs any better.
 

swathdiver

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Makes sense on the accessories.

I hate computer controlled vehicles for that very reason, they can quit going down the road and you have no idea why. I miss the carb days. I have been very temped to buy a mid 70's chevy truck for that reason, I'd trust it a lot more than this thing with 150k. :/

Thanks for the help! I'll get the plugs done like that and see if it runs any better.

I'm with you there! I was really tempted to buy an old square body Suburban but boy the technology is nice! I went with technology and so did you with that new Camaro! hehehe

So I have a Tech2 to help me work on the truck, you'll want a laptop and the GM MDI2/GDS2 software to work on that new Chevy which is also backwards compatible with the truck.

One thing I don't miss with my 4bbl carb, was being out in the intersection to make a left and having the motor quit just as I started moving! That was fun! Of course I later fixed it but it was a steep learning curve for a teenager.
 
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bill9000

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I'm with you there! I was really tempted to buy an old square body Suburban but boy the technology is nice! I went with technology and so did you with that new Camaro! hehehe

So I have a Tech2 to help me work on the truck, you'll want a laptop and the GM MDI2/GDS2 software to work on that new Chevy which is also backwards compatible with the truck.

One thing I don't miss with my 4bbl carb, was being out in the intersection to make a left and having the motor quit just as I started moving! That was fun! Of course I later fixed it but it was a steep learning curve for a teenager.

I'm very thankful my Camaro doesnt have a bunch of the BS that Chevy puts into the new trucks, such as the AFM shut off 4 cyls crap... THAT I KNOW wont make it past 100k I dont care what they say, LOL - usually they have to rebuild the top end at 70-80k, I think there's a time when technology is great (like my 455hp car that gets 26mpg) - but there's also such a thing as going too far, such as the AFM. Where it's just trouble.
 

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I'm very thankful my Camaro doesnt have a bunch of the BS that Chevy puts into the new trucks, such as the AFM shut off 4 cyls crap... THAT I KNOW wont make it past 100k I dont care what they say, LOL - usually they have to rebuild the top end at 70-80k, I think there's a time when technology is great (like my 455hp car that gets 26mpg) - but there's also such a thing as going too far, such as the AFM. Where it's just trouble.
I think it's also worth noting the context of the time. When cylinder deactivation was introduced, the tech as in its infancy. As with anything new, it takes time to worth the kinks out. Consider all the vacuum powered emission stuff, or early EFI carbs. Or even early oils for example. 10w30 was used because 5w30 just didn't hold up to shear resistance.

And for that matter, Chevy was in bankruptcy when the NNBS were produced. Quality across the board was terrible.
 

Tonyrodz

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That just is so wild to me when I hear someone say that, I had seen some with close to 200, but I figure even if the engine somehow made it that long, theres all the other stuff that HAS to wear out like injectors, water pumps, all that kinda stuff. And I just won't want to be broken down, this thing already lost a fuel pump and stranded my wife.

My goal has always been never to keep anything past 100k, but money's just an issue now for the 4wd dept. since I bought a brand new Camaro.


But, that said... so you are saying it can get past 150, and I've had a few people tell me that before, but nobody has been able to give me any kind of reason why, people say "they just do" - which doesn't explain anything to me... the way I see it, wear is wear and moving parts HAVE to wear out.

I'm hoping someone has some mechanical explanation to back up saying they can go for that long.

(I know emotion/tone is hard to read into text, so I will throw in that I'm genuinely asking, not trying to sound like a smartass at all)


** side note, this Yukon is VERY clean body-interior etc. but at 152k, it literally barely runs, it idles really low and has ZERO power, sounds like it has no compression... can barely get up into my driveway (which supports my thinking that 150k its at the end of its life) So I'd love to hear like a technical reason why it can still be ok.

(I also suppose you mean the engine can make it that distance, but thats not inclusive of things like injectors, starter, etc?)

thanks!!! I appreciate the help.
Fuel pumps are sort of common for these, along with water pumps and maybe an ccasional alternator. Just curious--if these are the original plugs,cwhat else is original? Maintenance wise. I'm not trying to sound like an ass, but you say it can barely go up your driveway and thst it has the original plugs. At 150,000 these motors are just breaking in. My 03 Tahoe originally came with the 4.8, and it had 276,000 on it, and it ran like a top. I only swapped it out for a 6.0. Great, great motors.
 
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bill9000

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Fuel pumps are sort of common for these, along with water pumps and maybe an ccasional alternator. Just curious--if these are the original plugs,cwhat else is original? Maintenance wise. I'm not trying to sound like an ass, but you say it can barely go up your driveway and thst it has the original plugs. At 150,000 these motors are just breaking in. My 03 Tahoe originally came with the 4.8, and it had 276,000 on it, and it ran like a top. I only swapped it out for a 6.0. Great, great motors.

Just regular maintenance, oil changes, greasing, etc. thats about it honestly.
And yes, it feels like a tired engine that's just worn out and has no compression. It has Flowmaster and you can just hear that it's not putting out a lot. it sounds and feels very weak.
 

swathdiver

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Just regular maintenance, oil changes, greasing, etc. thats about it honestly.
And yes, it feels like a tired engine that's just worn out and has no compression. It has Flowmaster and you can just hear that it's not putting out a lot. it sounds and feels very weak.

My first thought was that the cam lobes are worn down. But do the simple stuff first!

The new motors don't have AFM anymore, they have Dynamic Fuel Management where EVERY cylinder can shut off if the computer says so!

Before 2011, it was common for AFM systems to fail by 130K miles or so. Then the new parts came out and it is less frequent. The Gen Vs are even more reliable but it still happens.
 

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