Starting issues 2000 Tahoe 5.3L 110,00 miles

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Tahoe00

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+1 on the Fuel pump. Same happened to mine and I chased the problem for along time until I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump. No more issues since.
Does fuel level having any bearing on if she starts or not when cold? If mine sat overnight under 1/4 tank then she wouldn't start until I added fuel. Then it got worse, 1/4 tank turned to 1/2 without starting, so I replaced the pump.

No fuel level doesn't seem to matter I was almost on E and it did it and I had a full tank and it did it, but I think I will look into changing that shouldn't be too hard...thanks everyone I really appreciate it this is the "family" vehicle since the wife is pregnant I wanna have this bad boy ready for when the baby comes...
 

BaggedDenali00

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man i already relpaced it like 3 years ago... :( its was a MF corse mine went out with almost a full tank in it... so no one thinks its the regulator on the fuel rail?
 

Mac

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I bet it's faulty crankshaft sensor.....computer can't time ignition and
symptoms acts like a bad fuel pump or alternator.
 
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Tahoe00

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OK so update.....I replaced the fuel filter and it seemed to solve the problem for like a day then I just had the fuel pump changed "yesterday" this morning it started fine but when I went to leave work for lunch it didn't want to start up right away like 3 turns then it turned over...but when I left my house to go back to work it started up fine.... What else do you think could be the issue? Should I try the FPR and see if that fixes it?
 

Schwab

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You can check the FPR by pulling the vacuum line off of it. If fuel drips from the line, then you've definitely just found your problem. Good Luck ;)

Otherwise, before condemning a CKP or CMP sensor, you could check what your actual fuel pressure reading is with a fuel guage. I believe it should be between 55 and 62 psi, key on, engine off.

Another test you could do, if you have a good DMM like a fluke...

Open your fuse box and look at the "schematic" of it on the bottom of the lid. I think there's a little terminal that kind of looks like one half of a mini fuse would fit inside of it that should be labeled as a "prime" on your lid. If you use a DMM with a fused jumper capable of reading 20A, and jump that to one of the 60A fuses in the block, you should get a reading between 4 and 8 amps. Higher than 8 amps indicates a bad pump or restriction in the supply or delivery. Less than 4 indicates a bad FPR, leaking injector(s), or a bad pump. Give it a shot if you can, or if you have a friend with a good meter. :) If you get an extremely high reading though, pull your leads off quick. (The replacement fuse for my fluke is like 25 bucks haha)
 
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Tahoe00

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Ok so my friends dad is going to help out, one question I have is Ignition Switch or Neutral safety switch could either of those cause the issue. The other day I went to start the Tahoe and had it in the start position cycled through the gears and voila started up...since then it was fine...then I go to start it today and nothing tried the cycling through the gears and nothing, popped the hood and wiggled the negative battery cable and started up....lately i have felt like taking it out to my friends pasture and putting some bullets in it but I am trying to stay positive lol...
 

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