thats the idea of deleting those types of un needed things from the tune, to remove them, or just leave it all there with the codes deleted, cap off its lines and your golden.
when deleted your deleting every code associated with that sensor, not just the one your getting, theres no or low voltage for each, aka when its unplugged. my evap in the regal was a good 12 codes to fully delete, rear o2 was 4, egr was also 3, cat was 1. all these deleted codes show "ready" asap when you clear your codes. no waiting for them to become ready ever. only thing in my tune that has to wait is my up stream o2, cause i need that one to work right.
if you do have a evap leak somewhere it can be messing with your fuel trims.
my regals was messing with my ltft's bad. once its port was capped off at the tb my trims became way more stable and then i could actually do some tuning with a oz of faith.
if you wanted to dive in tuning a hpt tuner is only about 500, or less if you buy a used one. yes theres a hell of a learning curve, but hp has a pretty good forum with real techs helping you out as well as many people with tons of good info to be had. theres tunes you can get and copy over, aka would be like a canned tune, but you can fine tune it to your truck, if you ever mod it your a step up already owning a tuner. tranny tune would likely wake it up good too. was my first tuning i did when i got my tuner. at least its some thing you can feel right away.
all this maf tuning and such you dont always feel it, but knowing its running where it really should be is always good. and hp really does a lot of the work for you these days, scan then graph it, then hit a smooth button, and done. where my old ass dhp ( works on w bodys only) i got i need to look at the scan cells and make the changes myself. takes longer, more work, but it works. old school crap lol
