I only do what the voices in my wife's head, tell her to tell me to do.
Strange stuff with hydro-boost
- Thread starter rv8pilot
- Start date
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I only do what the voices in my wife's head, tell her to tell me to do.
Well, it turns out my thinking the brake pulsation was gone was a bit premature. During a longer trip today I realized I could still feel it but just not in the pedal where it was most noticeable before the swap. It can be felt as a general vibration in the chassis but less dramatic than it was in the brake pedal. For what its worth.
I think some air has worked its way out of the system as the pedal is now very firm the way brakes used to be before vacuum boosters. Certainly there is better "bite" and more positive feel of the brakes. Its a worthwhile modification in my book.
I think some air has worked its way out of the system as the pedal is now very firm the way brakes used to be before vacuum boosters. Certainly there is better "bite" and more positive feel of the brakes. Its a worthwhile modification in my book.
Just an update if anybody is still following this thread: Last weekend I replaced the pads and rotors with a PowerStop Z23 1-Click set and the pulsation/vibration is gone at last. I wasn't particularly interested in the drilled/slotted rotors but I wanted to try their carbon fiber/ceramic pads. They seem to require a bit more pressure for the initial bite than the stock metallic pads but once warmed up a bit they work fine. Other than the break in process I have not done a maximum braking test but they have a good feel. My setup is stock 12" rotors with the 16" wheels and I don't tow anything if I can avoid it. Along with the HB these brakes work well. I got them from Summit Racing for $135 and free shipping. Rock Auto wanted $25 to ship plus the same price for the parts.
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
Good to know, I decided to go OEM instead of the high performance stuff......just gotta find the time to swap it all out now!
Just a quick update for anybody still following this: I finally got around to flushing/bleeding my brakes and used almost a quart of fluid in the process. The pedal is now much firmer than it was initially and has much more "feel" than with the vacuum booster. I fully recommend doing this conversion regardless of which pads and rotors (even stock) you are using. I would not have changed mine out if they hadn't been warped.
Don't forget to flush the old fluid every couple of years particularly if you live in a hot climate. I bought a neat brake bleeder from Harbor Freight for about $30 (I think) that works of the compressor and makes short work of getting the old fluid out without needing a second person to depress the pedal.
Don't forget to flush the old fluid every couple of years particularly if you live in a hot climate. I bought a neat brake bleeder from Harbor Freight for about $30 (I think) that works of the compressor and makes short work of getting the old fluid out without needing a second person to depress the pedal.
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
Good to know on the brake bleeder, will have to go pick one up! Would rather do the whole process without help!
Agreed. I was thinking about buying one of those but wasn't sure if they worked good. Glad to hear. That was one thing keeping me from doing the GMT900 front brake upgrade.
Just a quick update for anybody still following this: I finally got around to flushing/bleeding my brakes and used almost a quart of fluid in the process. The pedal is now much firmer than it was initially and has much more "feel" than with the vacuum booster. I fully recommend doing this conversion regardless of which pads and rotors (even stock) you are using. I would not have changed mine out if they hadn't been warped.
Don't forget to flush the old fluid every couple of years particularly if you live in a hot climate. I bought a neat brake bleeder from Harbor Freight for about $30 (I think) that works of the compressor and makes short work of getting the old fluid out without needing a second person to depress the pedal.
Don't forget to flush the old fluid every couple of years particularly if you live in a hot climate. I bought a neat brake bleeder from Harbor Freight for about $30 (I think) that works of the compressor and makes short work of getting the old fluid out without needing a second person to depress the pedal.
I don't know how the duplicate message turned up but here's something I should add about the brake bleeder: You will get a lot of bubbles in the tubing but its coming from leakage around the threads of the bleeder screw (maybe some from the system) but it does no harm as long as you tighten the bleeder screw while the fluid is flowing. I tried pushing down on the bleeder but it didn't seem to make a difference.
In case anyone is interested, here's a 5 month update on the Powerstop Z-23 brakes on the front end of the Sled: Braking is much improved over the stock pads/rotors, I do not get any pad dust on the wheels, the rotors are still smooth without any grooves; there is usually some light surface rust on the rotors (I do live in S. Florida after all and they are not stainless steel) after standing for a time but it disappears with the first hop on the pedal. All in all I feel this was a very good value from Summit Racing.
